Travelogue

Mision San Francisco JavierAs per the experienced Baja travelers we met in Kuyima, we left Mulege a day early and headed towards Loreto, where we had just made reservations for the night at a place called Coco Cabanas.

On the way down Mexico 1, we stopped at Playa El Requeson, the beach I had marked in my trip planning notes as the best place to camp, to see if it was something we would like to do on our way back north. It was. The beach was much quieter than Playa Santispac, with much fewer RVs. Not sure why, as it was much prettier. Perhaps it was the lack of a restaurant on the beach.

Interior of Mision San Francisco JavierWe very much wanted to see the remote Mision San Francisco Javier, a highly recommended side trip from Loreto, so before heading over to our hotel, we took the gorgeous 24-mile, steep and winding drive from Mexico 1, through the scenic valley of the Sierra de la Giganta, to the tiny agricultural town of San Javier. The views of the craggy peaks of the Giganta along the way alone were worth the trip.

The town was lovely, set against a backdrop of black lava cliffs. There was only one street through town, lined with two restaurants and a souvenir shop, coming to an end at the steps of the beautiful stone structure of the mission.

We had been to two missions in Baja so far - San Ignacio and Mulege - but this one was by far the most impressive. It is considered the crown jewel of the Baja mission system, because of its impressive architecture and its excellent state of preservation.

Interior of Mision San Francisco JavierOutside the mission, there were several informative historical placards detailing its history. The following is a brief, summarized version:

The mission was founded in 1699 by Padre Francisco Maria Piccolo. However, during a drought, in 1710, it was moved 5 miles south to its present location because of its better access to fresh water and fertile soil. The goal of every mission was self-sufficiency, and this new location would allow them to grow their own crops, such as grapes, olives, and citrus.

The church here today was built from 1744 to 1758, and remains the finest preserved stone mission in Baja. The mission features the first glass windows in Baja, three gold-leaf altars shipped from mainland Mexico, and a spiral staircase leading up to the choir loft. Dominating the altar is a statue of San Francisco Javier, surrounded by eight large oil paintings.

Armed with knowledge, we stepped through the double portal and wandered through the interior of this very impressive church, taking note (and photographs) of the features we had learned about.

315-year-old olive tree (plus us)However, by far my favorite was the statue of a female saint (or possibly martyr?) set in the niche of a closed portal to the left of the altar. She was clothed in a black, formless cloak and crown of sorts, that left only her face exposed, in an expression that I can best describe as pure ecstasy. Adorning the portal surrounding her were a few more disembodied heads, with much more mundane, earthly expressions. I really wanted to know the story behind this, but could find no information either there or in later google churches. Her image was haunting.

After visiting the interior of the church, we strolled around back to the gardens, where you can still see the wells, dams, and irrigation channels built by the mission founders. It was quite lush, and date palms, citrus, grapes, and olive trees are still grown here. I can understand why they chose this location.

The most impressive example of their plantings was an enormous, 315-year-old olive tree, with gnarled branches extending in every direction. By my calculation, that tree had to have been planted almost immediately upon their mission’s move to this location.

The tree was the perfect backdrop for what turned out to be Herb and my first, and only, photograph of us together on this trip.

Mision San Francisco Javier's backyardWalking back from the gardens, we were treated to a very different perspective of the mission. From the front, it dominates the scene. However, from the back, with the black lava cliffs of the Sierra de la Giganta rising above it, it takes on a more humble role amidst nature’s glory.

Before leaving town, we decided to have lunch. We sat down at a table in Restaurant La Palapa, which was the only one mentioned in this town in Moon Baja, but were totally ignored. When a tour bus pulled into town, we figured we would never get served, so we got up and went across the street to Betty’s, where we had a very good, and quickly served, lunch of quesadillas and beef burritos.

Time to head back down the twisty road to Loreto and check out our accommodations for the night.

Description

Portals of Mision San Francisco JavierThe Mision San Francisco Javier is the crown jewel of the Baja missions because of its beauty and excellent state of preservation. It is the most architecturally impressive mission on the peninsular, as well as best preserved. Adding to its allure is its spectacular remote setting against a backdrop of the spectacular black lava cliffs of the Sierra de la Giganta.

Padre Francisco Maria Piccolo founded the mission in 1699, but during a drought in 1710, it was moved 5 miles south to its present location which had better access to fresh water and fertile soil. This new location would allow them to grow their own crops, such as grapes, olives, and citrus. Today you can still see the wells, dams, and irrigation channels that they built, as well as a 315-year-old olive tree, in the gardens behind the mission.

The church was built from 1744 to 1758, and remains the finest preserved stone mission in Baja. The mission features the first glass windows in Baja, three gold-leaf altars shipped from mainland Mexico, and a spiral staircase leading up to the choir loft. Dominating the altar is a statue of San Francisco Javier, surrounded by eight large oil paintings.

The Mision is a must-do side trip from Loreto. From Mexico 1 (at km 118), drive southwest for 24 miles to the tiny agricultural town of San Javier. The drive through scenic valley and peaks of the Sierra de la Giganta is worth the trip alone.