Travelogue

Day 1 - Kids arrival on the Ferry, Oak Bluffs stroll, Lunch at Noman’s, Fun at the House, Stroll around Edgartown and Ice Cream

The day we had been looking forward to for over 9 months, when Herb and I decided that we wanted to spend our wedding anniversary in the place where we had gotten married 40 years ago, had finally arrived.

We were married here way before Martha’s Vineyard became “the” place to get married.” The planning for our wedding was quite easy, and mostly done by phone - the Federated Church for the service, the Navigator Restaurant (now the Atlantic) for the reception, and some random band and florist for the final touches.

Nowadays, I am sure a Vineyard wedding requires years of planning, not the handful of phone calls I made a few months in advance. I bet it costs a lot more too.

So now, here we were back, to celebrate with a very special guest list - our two sons, their wives, and their children (aged 18 months and 14 months).

To celebratd, we had decided to go big with a beautiful home on Edgartown Harbor with a huge deck with incredible views of the Lighthouse and the Chappy Ferry.

But, first we had to greet the gang at the Oak Bluffs ferry.

As always, the unloading of cars and passengers from the ferry is a bit hectic, so we decided to meet at nearby Ocean Park - the lovely grassy park with the gazebo, so the kids could run free. And run free they did, chasing geese and wondering why they never caught one.

Although we had seen each other just two weeks before, it was a very enthusiastic reunion. Spirits were very high.

We had some time to spare since we couldn’t check in for another 5 hours, so we took a stroll to "Cottage City,”an historic district within Oak Bluffs that is famous for its charming and colorful "gingerbread cottages."

It’s actually not that easy to find. In fact, we had been coming to the island for about 15 years before we first discovered this tiny city within a city. My excuse is that it is fairly well hidden and easily missed. The secret is to go through an alley between the stores on the western side of Circuit Avenue into what is known as “The Campground.” It’s like you’ve entered a totally different world.

This community originated in the 1830s when Methodists began coming to the island to hold revivalist meetings. This was the period of the Second Great Awakening, a religious revival movement that preached personal salvation through highly emotional outdoor revival meetings.

Initially, attendees stayed in tents, but as the gatherings grew larger and larger each year, the tents were eventually replaced by these small, whimsical “Gingerbread Cottages,” with their fanciful bright colors and ornate moldings.

By 1880, 315 cottages had been built in a circular pattern around the original meeting area. A permanent structure called the Tabernacle, with seating for over 3,000 people, was built in the center to allow camp meetings to take place regardless of the weather. The town was incorporated as Cottage City.

We all were getting hungry, so Tommy did some research as to a good place for kids. He hit the jackpot with Nomans, a casual restaurant along the way to Edgartown, with good food and a large lawn area for a place for the kids to run free. There was going to be lots of “running free” on this vacation.

We also took note of the sign that there was going to be an Oktoberfest held here the following weekend.

Lunch is always followed by naptime (often for Herb and the little ones), so we stopped along State Beach (the narrow strip between Nantucket Sound and Sengekontacket Pond), put the two kids in their strollers and walked them on the bike path until they fell asleep.

There was one more order of business before checking into the house - food shopping at the Edgartown Stop & Shop.

Three full shopping carts and $700 later, we filled the cars to the brim with what we hoped would be most of our groceries for the week.

As we entered the house, we all pretty much gasped. From the pictures we knew it was beautiful, but this place was incredible, especially our views off the deck.
The gang enthusiastically approved of our choice.

That night, as we would on most others, we stayed in for dinner, which is much easier with the kids. Plus we had the best views in town.

Day 2 - Fun at the House, Lighthouse Beach, Cocktail Hour, Kids go out on the town after the babies go to sleep

Our first morning in the house started pretty much as every morning would. Herb and I, whose bedroom was on the top floor with the kitchen and living room, would wake about 7:00 to the sound of two delightful little children quietly playing.

Eventually, I would hear Nora keep repeating “Amu,” which is her name for me - I guess her rendition of Grandma. Walker is several months younger and not quite as vocal yet, so Nora pretty much did the talking for him.

Not being able to resist any longer, I would open our bedroom door and be greeted by Walker with a big grin on his face and Nora repeating “Amu!” once more.

Then, before I was even able to finish my coffee, Nora grabbed my hand and said “Out-doo,” which meant that she wanted to go outdoors onto the deck, and of course “Baby,” her name for little Walker, had to come too.

So I would scoop the two of them up and we would go “out-doo,” first to say hello to the large seagull, sitting atop the chimney next door. She must have had a nest up there, because she greeted us every morning.

Then the two of them would excitedly point at all the action going on below - the marina pulling boats out of the water for the season with big machinery, the Chappy Ferry going back and forth from the wharf, people fishing on the dock, and, of course, the lighthouse beyond.

It was like watching an episode of Busy Town.

I had to practically drag them inside to have breakfast.

One of the best, of many, qualities of this house was location, location, location. We could walk everywhere we needed to go in Edgartown - coffee shops, restaurants, cocktail bars, 3 ice cream shops, the lighthouse, etc.

After the kids (and Herb) napped, the boys loaded Nora and Walker into their backpacks and we all walked the short distance to the beach by the Edgartown Lighthouse, where the kids got a chance to play in the sand and splash in the water.

Against everyone’s advice I had bought collapsible pails and shovels, and some little trucks and animal figures, and squeezed them into my checked bag. I’m glad I ignored their telling me this wasn’t necessary, because the kids had a blast.

I also packed a pinky ball, so the bigger kids (our two sons) also had a blast playing our old family game of running bases. They never seem to recognize the fact that I am approaching 70 and insist on me being the first one to run back and forth between the bases in deep sand.

I was still pretty fast, if I must say so myself, but Andrew said he noticed some deterioration in my pinky ball skills.

That evening we divided tasks between kitchen duty and playing with the kids in the downstairs sitting room, which too had beautiful views outside the window.

Tommy, Herb, and I were on kid duty, so we brought down some cheese and crackers, hummus, and drinks.

The scene soon descended into chaos with Nora climbing up on the little table by the window, Walker stuffing his face with cheese and crackers non-stop while using his fingers to make scratch marks in the cheese, Nora dipping crackers into the hummus before switching over to using her fingers and eventually a little toy truck to dip with.

We made sure to move all the obviously expensive decorative objects and books high up on the shelves out of reach of the kids, with the exception of two wooden fish (one about 12 inches long and the other about 6) which we made the mistake of showing them.

From that point on, they were inseparable from their fish. Nora, being the oldest, took the 12 inch one and gave “Baby” the 6 inch one.

They carried those fish around constantly until Tommy googled them and found they were expensive antique heirlooms.

That’s when we hid them away when they went to bed, and I replaced them with plastic sharks from the Edgartown Paper Store the next day. After all, it was the 50th Anniversary of Jaws, which was filmed on Martha’s Vineyard.

After Nora and Walker were bathed and put to bed, Herb and I let the parents go out on the town for cocktails and/or ice cream. They lead such busy lives with few opportunities to just go out as adults so they very much relished these evening adventures.

Suffice it to say, everyone was having a great time.

Day 3 - Lunch at the Sea Food Shanty, Memorial Wharf, Playground

After our usual morning routine of taking Nora and Walker “out-doo” to see their favorite bird and all the activity in the harbor, we took them for a walk around town in their strollers while their parents went for a run. That’s when I bought them the plastic sharks in the Paper Store.

When Andrew, Tommy, Celeste, and Erin got back from their run, Herb and I took our turn and went for a 4-mile run around town and out along the bike path towards South Beach.

Deciding that eating lunch out with the kids was easier than dinner, we went to the Sea Food Shanty, a very popular place just a short walk from our house. It was extremely busy, but the service was quick, and the food was good.

Afterwards we walked to one of our old favorite spots - the Memorial Wharf, atop from which you can look out over the harbor and watch the boats return from a day of fishing and the ever-faithful and ever-running On-Time Ferry, as it makes its way back and forth across the short distance to Chappaquiddick. When you get tired of looking out at the harbor, which is hard to do, you can just turn around and look out over the quaint and picturesque houses and shops of Edgartown. There is no bad direction to look.

Hey, wait a minute! This is the same view we get from our deck!!

However, the one view we couldn’t get from our house was a view of the house itself, so we made sure to take a photo.

After the kids’ naps, we decided they deserved some playground time, so we loaded them in their strollers and walked about a mile to the Edgartown school on Robinson Street where they could run around and burn off some energy.

The kids were having a blast until one of them got pretty hurt - not the little ones, but our son Andrew had a pinky ball injury. Andrew and Tommy have always been very athletic and very playful, so they couldn’t resist throwing the pinky ball high and far to make the other one run for it.

Well, in this case, Andrew was running back and didn’t see the bench behind him so he smacked his knee really hard into it and did a flip over the bench.

He just sat there stunned, so we knew he was pretty hurt. His knee was pretty bruised making it hard to walk, so Herb and I ran back for the car to drive him home. We immediately put ice on it and he took some Ibuprofen.

We kind of thought his mobility for the trip would be severely hampered, but he rallied enough to walk out after the kids were in bed to another cocktail venue.

Day 4 - A bit of rain, cozy day in house,

We awoke the next morning not only to the pitter patter of little feet scampering outside our room, but to the pitter patter of rain on our roof. Ah yes, the first of two days of light rain predicted for the island.

However, we were still greeted with big smiles from the little ones and a request to go “Out-doo.” So out-doo we went to say hello to our bird and look at the Chappy Ferry going back and forth.

A rainy day was actually kind of nice to just chill and hang out in the house. We played some cards, made a fort out of the lounge chair cushions, took turns going out for runs, Herb fished from our dock, and in between the rain drops we took the kids out in the strollers for a walk around town.

Since not much was happening today, it might be a good time to discuss Edgartown’s history.

It's funny how such a small island can have such a variety of distinctive histories and personalities - Aquinnah has it Native American roots, Oak Bluffs its religious revivalist meetings, and Edgartown its whaling.

Edgartown’s location on a perfect harbor helped it become one of the primary ports for the whaling industry during the 1800s, and more than 100 Edgartown men were captains of whaling ships.

The profits from successful whaling voyages were enormous, as can be seen by the elegant mansions these captains built. You can’t walk very far in Edgartown without passing one of its many stately Captain’s Houses – clad in white-painted clapboard with black shutters, with wraparound porches and oftentimes widow’s walk atop the roof.

The thriving whaling industry came to an end in the late 1800s when oil and kerosene began replacing the need for whale oil.
Today, Edgartown’s source of livelihood is tourism, as thousands of mainlanders invade the island each summer to enjoy its unique history, charm, and beauty.

One can wander for hours along the narrow streets of town enjoying the meticulously restored captains’ houses and views of the great harbor and lighthouse. In addition to the fine views, there are dozens of elegant shops, art galleries, and restaurants to explore.

When the rain slowed down, we ventured out with the kids in the strollers and stopped in the Edgartown bookstore, where I bought the kids a child version of Jaws, which managed all the parts about eating people. However, it had the words “Bam Bam Bam Bam” next to any picture of the shark.

It went very well with the little plastic sharks I had bought them the previous day. Nora began calling the book “Bam Bam Bam Bam,” which was quite cute. If she only knew what really happened after each “Bam Bam Bam Bam.”

As evening came around, Nora and Walker anxiously awaited for cocktail hour where they knew they could fondle cheese and dip various objects in the hummus.

All in all, a fun, somewhat relaxing day was had by all.

Day 5 - Menemsha, Kids go to Mad Martha’s Farmers Brewery and Pizzeria, Herb and I go to Atlantic Fish & Chop House

We knew today was going to be another rainy day, but nothing bad enough to keep us from getting out and about.

Today, we decided to go to Menemsha, one of my favorite places on the island, and one where we have spent many wonderful times. Andrew and Tommy have many fond memories of this village and were the driving force to revisit it, despite the rain.

As I mentioned earlier, each of the towns on the island have their different histories and personalities. This one is a genuine, hard core fishing village that has hardly changed in the 30 years we have visited it. It is so picture postcard perfect that it seems more fake than real.

In fact, it was used as a stage set during the filming of the movie Jaws, so it was very appropriate that we were visiting it on the movie’s 50th anniversary. We should have brought the kids’ Jaws book for a reading. “ Bam Bam Bam Bam.”

It has a lovely little beach near the jetty, where the kids delightfully played with their pails and shovels for an entire hour without eating any sand.

Adjacent to the beach is the Menemsha jetty, which is always crowded with fisherman trying to land a blue or striper. We have had our fair share of success over the years with many a fish at the end of our lines. Unfortunately, stripers have become so scarce that they are no longer included in the annual fishing derby.

With a little encouragement, Herb got his fishing rod out and cast a few from the beach. Unfortunately, no one was having too much luck, even though the Annual Fishing Derby was in full swing. The word was that the fish just weren’t coming in yet.

Since nothing much was going on in terms of fish on the jetty, we started reminiscing about past times here. This particular story is very appropriate for our wedding anniversary in that it raises the question of what saw in me as a bride.

I remember coming to the Vineyard once in October before Herb and I were married. We came down to Menemsha to watch the sunset and do some fishing. We didn’t have much money then, so we were going to cook dinner on Herb’s camping stove on the jetty.

I was not exactly a very good cook then – not that I am that great now – but I was particularly inexperienced at the time.

I did not understand the concept of how much rice expands when you cook it. Before I knew it, I had enough rice to feed a family of 10 and it was bubbling over the pot onto the jetty. I think that is when Herb realized he wanted to marry me. Somebody had to do it and it’s lasted 40 years.

OK. Fast forward 40+ years back to the present.

Done with the playing in the sand and fishing portion of the day, we strolled along Dutcher Dock, past the weather-beaten fishing boats and fresh seafood markets to The Galley, a family owned business that has been around for 76 years serving their famous lobster rolls and chowder.

Fortunately there was no one there yet, so we and the kids could pretty much monopolize the dining area which had a great window overlooking the Menemsha fishing shacks and boats.

The food was great but the clientele was a bit rambunctious.

Back at the house, pretty much everyone napped and then got ready for our independent dinner plans.

Andrew, Celeste, Tommy, Erin, Nora and Walker went to Bad Mad Martha Farmer’s Brewery and Pizzeria, known for its great pizza and beer, and kid-friendly atmosphere with games and live music, making it a fun place to relax and hang out. The kids had a great time coloring, and the adults had a great time watching them have fun together while they drank beer.

Meanwhile, Herb and I went out for our Anniversary to the Atlantic Fish & Chop House, which used to be the Navigator Restaurant where we had our wedding reception.

It was very much different in decor and pretty much everything else, but we had a fantastic meal in a lovely setting.

I had the Black Truffle Lobster Mac & Cheese, which was to die for and very reasonably priced in a restaurant that had a $220 steak entree.

Poor Herb had a little more trouble ordering because of his shellfish allergy. His first choice was an Oss Bucco but that was a no no because it was potentially contaminated with cooking oils and utensils exposed to shellfish. After going through a few more choices, the waiter finally said that the Roasted Mediterranean Chicken had no risk of contamination. Fortunately, Herb said it was delicious.

When we got back to the house, the babies were sleeping but the parents were still up, so we spent a lovely hour sipping red wine with our adult children and their wives.

I don’t think I ever want to leave this place

Day 6 - Rental bikes for 2 days