Travelogue

Day 1 - Cholla Cactus Garden and Twentynine Palms

Cholla Cactus GardenIt was already 2:30 when we left the Salton Sea, not giving us much time to explore Joshua Tree today as it gets dark by 5:30. Before leaving Borrego Springs, I had made a reservation at the Cottonwood Campground in Joshua Tree, near the southern entrance to the Park, just in case that was how far we got before sunset. With a National Park Lifetime Senior Pass, the campside was only $12.50, so it wouldn’t be a big deal if we blew it off. I just like to have an insurance policy.

We arrived at the campground around 3:30, but the wind was picking up big time and was forecasted to get much worse - not very pleasant for camping. Plus, we really wanted to see the Cholla Cactus Garden at sunset, but that would mean a 21 mile drive north and then back again to the campground.

Cholla Cactus GardenSo, we made the decision to not camp, but rather to go to the Cholla Cactus Garden and then continue on to the town of Twentynine Palms and stay in a hotel there. However, Herb did utilize a bit of our $12.50 investment and took a 20-minute nap in our campsite.

We arrived at the Cholla Cactus Garden just in time to catch the setting sun dramatically backlighting the cacti. We weren’t the only ones with this idea, but fortunately the garden is so huge that everyone could have a cluster to themselves.

We set off on the ½-mile nature trail which wound its way through a dense forest of Teddy Bear and Silver Cholla cacti. They are called Teddy Bear for a reason – not for their cuddliness, as their furry little barbs are actually quite painful, but because they are probably the most adorable cacti, or even plant, I have ever seen.

The late afternoon light was amazing, casting a magical spell over the garden. It wasn’t long before I lost Herb as we each took off in separate directions in search of the most adorable and photogenic cholla. I think Herb took more photos of these cacti than he did of me over the entire trip.

Herb cooking my Valentine's Day dinnerWe stayed there until it was dark and then continued on through Joshua Tree National Park to the town of Twentynine Palms, where we hoped to find a nice restaurant and hotel. Tomorrow we would come back into the park to do some more exploration.

Unfortunately, Twentynine Palms was not what we hoped it would be. It got off to a bad foot in our minds when we stopped for gas and a road rage incident was going on right outside our car. We finally settled on an Americas Best Value Inn, which did have a not too desirable-looking Chinese restaurant a short walk away.

However, when we discovered that our room had a small kitchenette (more like two burners), I suggested to Herb that we stay in and cook one of our camping meals. It would be fun. He, rather reluctantly, agreed, and went on to make me a very nice Valentine’s Day dinner of powdered Idahoan Potatoes and Starkist lemon chicken. We paired it with a nice Chardonnay.

Day 2 - Hike Fortynine Palms Oasis Trail, Hike Ryan Mountain, and Off-Road on Covington Flat

Herb approaching the Fortynine Palms OasisThe next morning the forecast was still calling for 45 mph gusts of wind, so we wondered whether it was even worth our while going back into the Park or whether we should just head home.

However, when we stuck our heads outside the door, it didn’t seem so bad, so we decided to head over to the Fortynine Palms Oasis Trailhead, which was quite nearby and get in a quick hike on a trail we had never been on before.

We set out on the trail which climbed steadily, though not too steeply, up a rocky slope with creosote bushes and barrel cacti along the way. No Joshua Trees though, as they prefer a bit higher altitude.

Fortynine Palms OasisThings were going along just fine until I hit my foot against a rock, and lunged forward falling on my knees. The good news was that my left hand hit the rock first, softening the blow. The bad news was that my cell phone (which is my camera) was in that hand.

I almost cried when I saw the small bullet holes and cracks in the bottom fifth of the screen. There is a screen protector on there, but I wasn’t sure whether the cracks were on that or the actual phone screen itself. When we got home, we surprisingly found that the phone screen was fine. I strongly advise everyone to get a good screen protector.

Surprisingly, Herb didn’t hear my grunts as I fell and was about 20 years ahead of me going along his merry way. I yelled to him and he came running back. We spent a few minutes examining my and the phone’s bruises before continuing on. At least, the cracks were so low on my screen that I could still see through it well enough to compose photos.

Atop Ryan MountainForging on, with my phone now safely tucked away in my backpack, we continued on over two more ridges before getting our first sighting of the palm grove, about a mile from when we started.

From there, we began descending towards the oasis, which looked so out of place from its surrounding arid landscape. Eventually, we followed the path through a group of boulders that ended right amongst the shady fan palms, which are arranged around a small greenish pool and a trickling stream.

These trees were planted by miners to mark the spring that now irrigates the trees. The oasis is also an important watering hole for native desert bighorn sheep and coyotes, as well as birds.

It was quite peaceful.

Top of Ryan MountainFrom there we retraced our steps one and a half miles back to the car. It wasn’t too windy yet, so we decided to drive back into the park to hike up Ryan Mountain, considered to be the best hike in the park.

We had been to Joshua Tree several times before, so we didn’t feel too bad passing right by some pretty cool spots. Ryan Mountain was one of the few things we hadn’t done.

By now the wind was getting really pretty fierce, but we decided to do it anyway. The trail ascends pretty steeply - 1,000 feet over a mile and a half - up a series of stone steps cut into the bedrock. I took trekking poles with me this time so that I wouldn’t repeat my almost faceplant on the Fortynine Palms Oasis hike. Plus I kept my cell phone safely tucked away as well.

Beautiful Joshua tree specimen among the Covington Flats roadAfter a mile and a half wandering always upward through boulders and Joshua trees, we reached the summit, marked by a pile of boulders, which we felt compelled to stand atop, despite practically being blown off of it.

From atop the exposed, 5,457-foot summit, there was an impressive panoramic view of the jumbled rock formations and Joshua tree forests that surround the peak, as well as the far off San Gorgonio and San Jacinto mountains. Lots of bang for your buck for a 3-mile hike.

Now, we just had to get down without being blown away. I always find going down a rocky trail much harder than going up, so I just took my sweet time. It was good to get back to the car and get out of the wind.

View from Eureka PeakBecause of the gusty wind, we decided that an off-road drive where we could enjoy the scenery from the comfort of the car might be a good idea. Although we had done the Covington Flats drive in the northwest corner of the Park before, we thought it was worth a repeat. It has some of the largest and oldest Joshue trees in the Park, as well as some of the lushest high desert in the region.

The drive took us along a well-graded dirt road for 25 miles, past many robust Joshua trees, and eventually out to 5,518-foot high Eureka Peak, where there was a tremendous 360 degree view of the Park, Yucca Valley, San Gorgonio and San Jacinto, and Palm Springs.

We didn’t want to stay in Twentynine Palms another night, so after finishing the Covington Flats drive, we headed to Barstow about two hours closer to home, and a place we were very familiar with.