Travelogue

Storm Clouds in Furnace CreekThe ride out of the Death Valley on 190 into the town of Lone Pine, is one that I had done several times in the past. It is an amazing drive/ride over the mountain ranges, past Panamint Springs, with elevation change from sea level to over 5000'. I tried not to think of the time that the rusted brake lines in the motorhome burst and left me stranded without brakes during our trip in 2007 Lone Pine.

With 7 tons and motorhome, laden with wife and children, the steep gradients and descents are a high stress event. You are constantly judging when to downshift to spare the brakes from overheating, and how to take turns at a speed that allows safe passage for the vehicle and passengers contained within.

In contrast, riding the motorcycle is a sublime event. The lighter weight, and two wheels let you descend and ascend the steepest grades with impunity, and you have a much greater sense of the environment you are cruising through. Your sense of smell is stimulated by the aroma of the landscape, and changes in temperature are felt with a much greater immediacy then when traveling in a "cage", (motorcyclist talk for a car). The view is unobstructed and there is a free feeling of flowing as one through the environment.

ST-1100 with Snow Capped SierraWhen I got to Lone Pine, I tried unsuccessfully to visit the Alabama Hills. Not sure if I didn't have coverage, or whether I really didn't want to chance the bike on the dirt roads, but by reviewing my GPX track I can see that I wandered down a road that didn't have any direct access whatsoever. Interested readers can learn more from our 2015 trip to the Eastern Sierra.

I continued north on 395 with the snow capped Sierra as my constant companion.

After 120 miles I came to the Manzanar National Historic Site. This was the site of the Japanese American citizens internment during World War II. I drove the bike along the tour road through the camp, and visited the exhibits. It was very moving and disturbing to witness first hand this terrible chapter in the nations past.

Manzanar Memorial ObeliskAt the far end of the loop, against the backdrop of Mount Whitney, stood the Manzanar Memorial Obelisk. I had seen Ansel Adams photo of this monument and I wanted to visit it myself. The view did not disappoint, and I tried to emulate Adams by capturing a similar photograph.

Back on 395 I continued north where I am embarrassed to say that I had another of my McDonalds big breakfasts in Bishop, CA. My oldest son, Andrew, has since moved to Bishop and I now know of a dozen superior dining establishments, but at the time the familiarity of the Golden Arches trumped the other alternatives.

Calorically fueled, I continue up 395 climbing from 5000' to over 8000'. The temperatures dropped considerably, and I turned up the heat on the electric jacket that I wore through much of the trip. Even though my motorcycle is fully fared, and the windshield diverts most of the wind from my body, there is still a considerable cooling effect from the breeze at 75 mph. So much so that even at 70 degrees in the sun, you will slowly become cold and drained of energy without a little support in the form of an electric heated jacket.

June Lake Villager PorchThe cooler temperature helped clinch my decision for the nights lodging. Rather than to attempt to camp out in a National Forest, or BLM land, I would try to find lodging on the June Lake Loop. This had been described to me as a very worthwhile scenic detour, and one that should have able lodging as well.

It was still early season, but the June Lake Villager Motel was open, and had a room.

While checking in, the receptionist, (a women about my age), noted my motorcycle in the parking lot. I thought I might be impressing her by tales of cross-county travel on a 1100cc Honda motorcycle. She listened, and then told me she had recently ridden herself from upper Michigan on a 250cc Yamaha. My testicles shrank a few sizes, and she led me to my room.

The room porch faced west, so I attempted to repair my ego with a beer and watched the sun set.