Travelogue

Bonnie Springs RanchI had met another motorcyclist in the campground last night, and he suggested I take route 93 back up to I40 as it would be a much more scenic ride, and would avoid me backtracking on a road already ridden. I took his counsel and had a thoroughly enjoyable ride though the mountains northwest of Phoenix.

The rest of the day was supposed to be an uneventful ride up to Las Vegas, with a ride along the scenic loop of the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area scheduled for the next day. Red Rock is a very popular park with rock climbers, and Lorry and I climbed there the in 2014 with our boys at Red Rocks. In fact, probably the best photo of me leading a climb, the 5.11b sport climb "Caustic Cock" is available on the Mountain Project Website. This climb was done a week before my 60th birthday, so it was fun to still get such a hard climb in while in my late 50s.

Anyway, on the ride to Vegas, the skies started to darken, and then storm clouds appeared in the distance. Soon there was no distance between me and the storm clouds, and I was riding in the most torrential downpour I had experienced since the storms in the Texas panhandle. I have spent some time in Vegas at various trade shows and conventions and have never experienced the volume of rain I got on that day.

ST1100 in Bonnie Springs RanchSoon however the rain passed, and the sun emerged, so I continued on to Red Rock, where I was considering camping in the first-come first-served climbers campground. A talk with the Ranger in the visitor center convinced me otherwise. He said the forecast was for possible showers, with temperatures approaching freezing. Packing up a wet frozen tent in the morning did not seem very appealing, so I asked about alternatives.

The Ranger suggested that the only other lodging option, close to Red Rock State Park, was the Bonnie Springs Ranch. This replica of an 1880's town was a landmark originally created in the 1840s and at the time I was only looking for a good bed and a warm shower so $101 seemed a little excessive, but I have to say it actually was quite nice. I've since learned that the ranch was expected to close mid-March in 2019.

A good shower, meal, and good nights sleep and I was looking forward to my ride around the Red Rock loop road in the morning.

Travelogue

Midget Wrestling Returns!I have always had an affinity for the sun and warm of the south, and since the forecasted weather on the northern route was looking a little cool and damp, I decided to take a major detour south to Phoenix, and enjoy a few days of relaxation in the sun.

Located just north of Phoenix was the Shangri La Ranch which I hoped would provide me an environment where I could relax in the sun, and get some low impact exercise by swimming in a pool. The fact that it was located in an area known for it's large saguaro cactus, and had a hikeable mountain as well, helped clinch the decision. I pointed the motorcycle south, and stared the 130 mile ride down I7.

Despite being an interstate, this was a very nice ride. The air quickly warmed up as I dropped a mile in elevation from to 7000' down to 2000'. The rest areas had viewpoints of the surrounding mountains, and I was feeling good that I had made the diversion. Large saguaro cactus started to dot the landscape, and it felt completely different than the mountains up north.

Thongs in the TreesAs had become customary when planning a few day stop, I would find the nearest on-route Walmart Supercenter and re-provision the bike for a few days of unsupported camping. I could probably have shopped anywhere, since I really couldn't carry much on the bike, but it was probably a holdover from our RV camping trips, and the familiarity of the Walmart shopping layout made it a bit more efficient shopping experience. A Subway for lunch, and I was back onto the road with a 12 pack of Bud strapped to the top the luggage bag.

At the final turn to the "Ranch" I noticed some signage at the corner advertising the events at the local restaurant and saloon. At the top of a post, along with the usual beer ad's, and fundraisers, was a poster proclaiming in all CAPS, "MIDGET WRESTLING RETURNS". I had never heard of "midget wrestling", as either a sporting or spectator event, but alas the return date of May 15 would be well after my departure. This is probably just as well, and so I am still left unsure in the knowledge of whether I would or would not have attended the grand reopening and lost my "midget wrestling virginity".

View from SummitAfter making camp, I spent the afternoon lounging at the pool, and strolling along the paths though the scrubs and desert. Along a river wash, I came along trail that included a collection of small plastic nymphs and other whimsical characters. They were nestled among the rocks and in the branches of trees, and actually looked like a bit of outdoor art. A bit further on, and I was greeted with a tree laced with lacy womens thongs. Also, a nice artistic touch, but one that I would not have expected to find in an otherwise isolated section of the desert.

The next day, I knew that Lorry would chastise me if I did not get some real aerobic exercise. A large mountain was located directly behind my campsite, and I soon learned that there were trails to it's summit. Trail shoes on, I started out on a hike/run up the mountain.

Campsite with HondaDistances are always a challenge to judge in the desert, and this mountain was no exception. It always seemed to recede, but eventually after 2.5 miles and 1000' of elevation gain, I was on it's summit. I had run with a bottle of water, but at this point the water was long gone.

A few record photos, and I started to head back to the ranch.... or did I? From the summit, there was a maze of trails leading down, and the landscape below was homogenous enough that I didn't really know where to go? By checking the photos I had taken with the phone, I was finally able to retrace my steps, but it has been the last time that I have ever run without a gpx track being captured on my gps enabled phone or watch.

Well rested, it was with renewed enthusiasm for the road that I tidied up my gear in anticipation of the next days ride north, back to the epitome of cultured civilization, Las Vegas.

Travelogue

Respect from Ronald McDonaldStill on Central Time, I was up at 6:00 to be one of the first ones at breakfast. I normally enjoy a full breakfast at home, but on the road it seems almost essential to stock up with some high caloric waffles, eggs, bacon, and coffee of course.

The bike was wet, but for now the skies where cloudy without any measurable precipitation. I entered the freeway and quickly got up to cruising speed. Skies were beautiful as the sun tried to poke through the morning clouds. Todays ride also held the promise of some elevation change. After riding 1000+ miles of flat Texas and Oklahoma I40, crossing the 7000' foot peaks in western New Mexico would be a treat.

Wigwam Motel Teepees with BikeToday, route 66 has been largely superseded by I40. There remain lots of signage encouraging the traveler to exit and experience the legendary route 66, but most of these are simply efforts to encourage tourism on a bypass that otherwise has little to offer of substance.

However,,, there was one stop on the original Route 66 that I wanted to try an visit. This was the legendary Wigwam Motel in Holbrook, AZ. I had seen photos of it's 28' concrete teepees and even considered spending a night in one.

But first, it was lunchtime and I experienced my first "motorcycle parking only" spot at an Albuquerque McDonalds. It was good to get some recognition as a long-distance motorcyclist if even only from Ronald MacDonald.

Pee Break SelfieIn 150 miles further along I40 it was time for a pee break, which conveniently coincided with another R66 classic rest stop, the Arizona Painted Cliffs. The cliffs themselves are visible from the highway and invite a visit just from the natural beauty of the red sandstone cliffs. However, in classic Rt 66 tradition, natural beauty can always be enhanced, and this case it is done with the addition of full size sculptures of deer, elk, horses, teepees, and Indians, that dot the edges of the cliffs above. This is Navajo country and they seem to have learned how to merchandise their heritage with large signage announcing the "Lowest Prices on Indian Artifacts". I managed to avoid the gift shops and steered my trusty iron steed back out onto the highway.

After a few hours more, I exited I40 and got to the legendary Wigwam Motel. While I was too soon to stop for the night it was a good place to photograph some of the "classic cars" that adorned the parking lot outside of the Wigwams. Perhaps it was for best though, as it seemed as though the Wigwam Motel had seen it's better days, and was now just trying to hang onto the memories of whatever stature as a vacation destination that it once had.

Tacos Los AltosI continued down I40, and at mile 500 pulled off in Flagstaff for as good cheap mexican dinner at Tacos Los Altos. Across the street was a Super 8 where I spent the night.

Morning at the Super 8 was the usual breakfast and pre-flight check of the bike before heading out for the days ride. However, this morning a girl loading her car in the parking lot noticed the NJ plate on my bike and seemed genuinely impressed that I had ridden the bike from NJ to Flagstaff. She even took a selfie with me and the bike to show to her boyfriend. It felt good to get an unsolicited confirmation that my cross-country ride might be something extraordinary.

Travelogue

Texas Style BBQFully revived from my two night stay and the services of an able masseuse I was once again, eager to hit the road.

Today ride didn't promise any spectacular scenery, and would hopefully be little more than blasting down the flat straight highway of I40 across the state of Texas. You knew your were in Texas when the Rest Area BBQ grates were in the shape of the state, and the Men's room had all caps TORNADO SHELTER signage as well.

This part of the country is, after all, also known as Tornado alley and weather was one of my major concerns on this stretch of road. Thankfully, I had had little in the way of rain on my trip so far. The forecast for the next few days showed a high likelihood of rain with thunderstorms, possibly severe, but not with any Tornados in the current forecast.

I headed out optimistically, and set my first destination as Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo, Texas. For those unfamiliar with Cadillac Ranch, this is basically an outdoor art exhibit on the ranch of Amariilo's helium magnate Stanley Marsh III. It consists of ten classic Cadillacs, buried nose first into the ground. Spray paint cans are usually found around the base of the vehicles, and visitors are encouraged to leave their own mark on the eclectic exhibit.

We had visited this as a family before in 2002 and curious readers can read Lolo's more detailed description at Cadillac Ranch, TX.

Desert Cadillac Selfie with PhotobomberI parked my trusty steed sporting a NJ license plate, and strolled out to take the required cell phone selfie at the head of the line of Cadillacs.

Quickly back on the road I was up to my cruising speed of between 75 and 80 mph,, or so says my GPX track and Google Earth. I don't remember usually riding that fast, but there were some impressive storm clouds growing to the south, and I was hoping to outrun them before experiencing them first hand.

In fact, I was not the only one noticing the storm clouds to the south of my position on I40. Lorry had been tracking my progress on Google Maps, and had a weather radar window open as well. By checking them both, she could tell better than I could what my weather forecast would be.

The phone rang in my headset,, and I answered to hear Lolo offering mileages to the next few rest stops where I should stop and shelter out the storm that was rapidly approaching. Thanking her profusely, I headed toward the next rest area, but not before being caught in a deluge and gusty winds that threatened to blow me out of my lane. Within 15 minutes however I was safely in a rest area, enjoying a cup of bad coffee and listening to the rain pound on the ceiling above.

Honda ST1100 under Ominous SkiesWithin a half hour, all was well again weatherwise and Lorry had another suggestion. We had never really done justice to Petrified Forest National Park, and since I would be passing right by, might I want to go and check it out. Maybe it was too late in the day, or maybe I was wanted to put in some miles, but for whatever reason I decided to blow off the Park and save it for another day. (Lorry and I did get a chance to go back to Petrified Forest National Park in 2016 when we drove the Camry cross country. It was a great visit, and I'm glad we go to do it together).

I finally struggled into the town of Tucamari, NM. Got some gas and beer and checked into a Days Inn on the highway. Dinner was at the highly regarded "Blakes Lotaburger" where I tried my first green chile burger. After stolling back to the motel, and a few beers I was ready for bed but not before seeing the local weather forecast for tomorrow as "Thunderstorms in the morning, then partly cloudy during the afternoon hours. A few storms may be severe. High 73F. Winds S at 10 to 20 mph. Chance of rain 80%".

I fell into a deep sleep with the sound of rain blowing on my ground floor window.

Travelogue

Motorcycle Camping in OklahomaWhen I woke, it became painfully obvious that the lack of physical activity and long riding days were beginning to impact my vertebrae. Both my lower back and neck were complaining and I needed to do something soon to avoid being stuck in the midwest without the ability to ride my bike.

A little research, and I found Oaklake Trails, a camping resort with a pool just short of Oklahoma City. In NJ I had become an avid pool swimmer at the local YMCA where by swimming 3 days a week, my back pain had diminished. I hoped that swimming might help loosen things up a bit.

I stocked up at the local Walmart, checked in, and pitched my tent in an open spot with a picnic table.

I had packed a small "Kermit" chair that I had first learned about when I met a motorcyclist in the Everglades who was using one for his circumnavigation of both the North and South American continents. While my riding goals were far more modest, I thought the chair comfortable as well and found it to be a great alternative to the motorcycle or beach chair. I sat down in the sun and read a bit from my Kindle.

A little swim in the pool and then a hike through the grounds ended the day.

Oaklake Resort PoolThe next day I discovered that there was also a hot tub for campers to use. This seemed to help a bit to loosen up my shoulders but the pain persisted.

I got lucky when a professional masseuse set up his table by the pool and offered complimentary massages. While I had never had a massage in my life, and was somewhat reluctant to have a 40 year old guy rubbing my shoulders, I soon learned that he was a real professional. In fact, he had worked with the US Olympic team and had received an offer of a 6 figure salary to act as a personal masseuse for a couple in Florida. After 20 minutes of fairly intense manipulation of my shoulder blades I once again regained a complete range of motion. I was amazed, grateful, and insisted he take the $15 that was all I had on my person at the time.

With mobility restored, I could now return to planning the rest of my trip through the midwest. From previous crossings with our motorhome I was aware of the very real danger that weather, and particularly tornadoes present for travelers crossing Oklahoma and the Texas Panhandle during the late spring and early summer months. The immediate forecast looked OK for a crossing but I would have to make time since the following week looked very ominous. Lorry was concerned as well and assured me that she would monitor the radar map and keep me apprised of any storm cells.

Travelogue

Ground Floor Room at Super 8Up early, helped in part by the change to Central Time Zone, I was ready to put in some serious miles in my journey west.

As there really was no plan, I had considered stopping in Nashville but rejected it since I didn't enjoy riding in city traffic just to find expensive lodging. Also, it was too soon to stop for the day, and I had no real interest in country music. Finally, I feared feeling homesick when around crowds and/or in places that I knew that Lorry would enjoy.

Memphis, TN was the next city on route to be considered, but reluctantly rejected for much of the same reasons. Although, to this day I still wonder what it would have been like to visit Beale Street, the "Home of the Blues".

Instead, I headed west on I40 and after 5 hours had covered 250 miles and crossed the mighty Mississippi leaving Tennessee, and entering Arkansas. This river crossing, like all those before, seemed to mark the beginning of the trip into the "real west".

I immediately pulled over into the Arkansas welcome center to void my bladder, still wearing my earplugs, and charged to the mens room. When I exited, an older man that I think may have been trying to get my attention, continued to gesture and try to speak to me.

Tasty Braums Double BurgerHis intention now obvious, I removed my earplugs and was surprised to learn that he was seeking me out to hand out brochures extolling the virtues of Arkansas' twisty motorcycle roads. It seems that there is a considerable tourist business catering to motorcyclists. I explained that I was just passing through, but would consider his offer on my next trip through his state.

After 5 more hours I finally pulled into Fort Smith Arkansas, the last town on I40 before Oklahoma, and one that we had actually visited in the motorhome with family in 2002. In fact, it was the last of the lower 48 states that we visited with our boys in the Lazy Daze, and completely filled in the "sticky state map" on the interior of our coach's door.

It was a full day of 523 miles, but my timing probably could have been better. Fort Smith was hosting a major gathering of motorcyclists, (mostly Harley riders), and almost all the motels were full.

I pulled into the 2 star rated Super 8 Van Buren/Ft. Smith Area in hope of getting a ground floor room as I always had so that I could easily unpack my bike and keep it secure. The receptionist encouraged me to take a second floor room, but then offered that there might be one left if I didn't mind a bit of noise.

After unpacking and showering I walked to the highly rated Braum's Ice Cream & Burger Restaurant for their specialty double burger and milkshake. Judging from the average girth of their clientele they must be doing a good business.

Finally back in my room I understood the receptionists desire to get me on the second floor. Even with the aid of silicon earplugs and a few beers I couldn't avoid the sounds of celebration in the room above my room.

Oh well,,,

Travelogue

Cades Cove MeadowSomewhat groggy from the previous nights excesses, I tried to come up with a riding plan for the day.

Many cups of coffee later my will re-materialized and I realized that I would forever regret it if I did not take a ride through Cades Cove. It was most certainly the only time in my life that I would be able ride this on my motorcycle, and probably the first or second thing that friends would ask when they learned I visited the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. So, I decided to go, even though it would involve a 4 hour detour back through the park.

Once again, timing was in my favor. While I had heard horror stories of "bumper to bumper" traffic throughout the entire loop during autumn, on this early weekday morning in April, I almost had the entire loop to myself.

The clouds hung low over the Cove, but no rain materialized. Instead, I was treated to sunbeams breaking through the clouds and illuminating the morning fog in the meadows.

Honda ST1100 SupermodelI posed my trusty steed in an empty parking lot, and photographed her under the soft light with sunbeams in the distance as if she were a supermodel.

A little further on the loop I strolled around the grounds of the Cable Mill Visitors Center and photographed the gristmills.

OK,, I now had to make up some time and start riding west on I40. Coming out of Gatlinburg I had to pass directly through Pigeon Forge of Dollywood Fame. The entrance to the park was enormous with parking lots as far as the eye could see. I was glad that it was off-season and that without traffic I could make good time to Knoxville. I cannot imagine what this would be like in the height of the summer tourist season.

At Knoxville, Lorry had found another Chipotle so I set that as my destination and had my second lifetime dubious Chipotle lunch.

Full of beans, I headed west on I40 and tried to make up some time.

After a while, I found an Econo Lodge in Lebanon, Tennessee that was in walking distance to a highly Yelped restaurant named Los Compadres Mexican Grill. So after another dose of Mexican food I was sated and soon asleep in my room.

Travelogue

Highest Point on the Blue Ridge ParkwayWell rested and restored from my visitation to Biltmore Estate, I set out to plan the next few days of the trip. The Trader Joes stop had supplied both food and drink for a few days of unsupported travel so I could camp as well.

The original plan was to head over to Deals Gap and try to ride the "Tail of the Dragon" the next day. However, the weather forecast was for a slight drizzle for most of the day. In addition, the stop would probably add a day or two to the overall trip. Finally, I had already experienced some extreme twisties on my fully loaded bike through an inadvertent turn into a road that was posted as the "most crooked road in Virginia". With steep descents, horseshoe decreasing radius turns, and narrow lanes it was not an experience that I would intentionally repeat. Thus, I programmed the bike to head to Gatlinburg, Tennessee.

Those who know me might wonder why I would possibly subject myself to a monumental tourist trap, especially when the ride would take me directly through the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, where I probably could have camped and taken a ride through a highlight of the park, the "Cades Cove Loop".

Mountain Farm MuseumThe misting rain played a large part in my decision, and I figured that I could always backtrack a bit on the next day to do the Loop under better weather conditions. So I returned again to the last of my ride along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

I arrived at the Richland Balsam Overlook, which at 6053 feet, is the highest point along the parkway. A quick selfie and I was back on the road.

Next stop was the Oconaluftee Visitor Center in Cherokee, NC. It was a great spot for a break and to have a bit of lunch. I strolled through the adjoining Mountain Farm Museum and took some photos of the relocated dwellings from the 1800's. Despite the intermittent drizzle, the parking lot was full of motorcycles setting out to enjoy the twisty roads through the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. As I don't like riding in a group, or being in front of a group, I waited till they had a bit of a head start, and then headed out myself.

Moonshine Tasting ShotletsThe ride was thoroughly enjoyable, although I did give a thanks to the folks at Aerostich in Duluth, Minnesota who had the made the expensive, but very waterproof Darian Jacket and Pants that I was now my daily "office wear". Although they cost over $800 new, I consider it a good value since it has protected my butt and other vital body parts for over 40K miles through rain, sun, freezing and desert hot temperatures.

In far too short a time, I arrived at the kitschy tourist trap of Gatlinburg Tennessee. I wasn't sure what I had expected, but what I found was a very nice, clean, community filled with enough tourist attractions to fulfill the vacation fantasies of its millions of annual visitors. Fortunately, on an April weekday I was ahead of the crowds and pretty much had the place to myself.

I quickly secured lodging at an Econo Lodge Inn & Suites at the Convention Center, which was in walking distance to the main tourist drag and had a burger dinner at the Smoky Mountain Brewery.

Satisfied, I started my stroll down the main strip to see what adventures would await me.

Ripley's Believe It or Not! OdditoriumI lost my "moonshine virginity" at Ole Smoky Moonshine. It was an open air bar built to handle patrons 10 deep, but during this evening it was myself and a few other "tasters". I "think" it was free since I can't find any record of a charge and I also "think" that they offered up to 10 little "shotlets" of liquor that they labeled for the tourist trade as "moonshine".

Feeling warmed up, I continued down the street and found Davy Crocketts Moonshine. To my surprise, it was the same deal here. Stand at the bar and wait for a bunch of little shot glasses of moonshine to be delivered without cost?

Finally, in what can only be considered as an irrational act of excess, I found the last remaining moonshine emporium on the block. Doc Collier Moonshine provided the same deal as the rest, and I almost certainly should have declined. But... when in Rome..

I staggered back to my room, drank some water, and went to sleep....

Travelogue

ST 1100 at Cumberland Knob Recreation area overlookAfter two nights on the road, I was beginning to get into a bit of a rhythm. The "laundry", consisting of a pair of e-officio underwear, wool socks, and a long sleeve wool shirt which were washed in the sink with shampoo, and dried overnight using the motel rooms heater. Nourishment in the form of 2 packs of Maple and Brown Sugar Oatmeal and a mug of coffee were prepared using hot water from the microwave or coffee maker.

My clothes were contained in a black waterproof "river bag" that was strapped on top of a waterproof black Ortlieb bag which contained all the soft camping gear. (Big Agnes UL3 Tent, Mountain Hardware Ultralamina 32 sleeping bag, luxurious X-Ped large sleeping pad, and a Kermit camping chair.)

The rest of the bike was packed as follows...

• Left side saddlebag inner compartment - Nalgene water bottle, Jetboil cookset and Jetboil stove, Starbucks Italian Coffee, and a Nissan thermos.
• Left side saddlebag outer compartment - Propane, Bagels, Peanut butter, Quaker instant oatmeal, and a partial roll of paper towels
• Right side saddlebag inner compartment - Small soft cooler with beer, water bottles, wine in Arizona green tea bottles
• Right side saddlebag outer compartment - Progresso canned soup, purple mist Gatorade, Triscuits, Knorrs Rice Sides, Mountain House dinners, and a bag of cashews
• The rear Givi bag contained my Canon G12 camera, a Go-Pro, a small laptop, AAA maps of the country by state, and my Gerbing Heated Jacket when it was not needed to be worn.
• The tankbag contained my chargers for the phone, headset, and GPS, as well as a cover for the entire bike. A map for the current section was visible in the top clear pouch.

My pre-flight routine had also been refined somewhat.

• Start the bike and let it warm up while finishing the packing process
• Get Google Maps on the phone positioned to the next destination, start the Strava application to record the gpx track, and create a playlist for the day on Google Music
• Check tires, lights, and all controls
• Plug in heated jacket and adjust the vents on my Aerostich Darien Jacket for the forecasted temperatures in the early morning.

Bad Helmet Hair SelfieToday would be a great ride. I was heading down some of the most scenic parts of the Blue Ridge Parkway and Lorry had convinced me that I should treat myself with a few days in Ashville so I could visit the Biltmore Estate. Living in NJ we had often visited the Mansions of Newport Rhode Island, but had not yet visited the largest of the Vanderbilt Mansions. I wished that Lorry could be here with me, but I promised to take a lot of photos so she could vicariously enjoy the tour with me.

On the road one again, I enjoyed the two lane Blue Ridge Parkway that meandered down the ridge of the mountains past rolling hills and occasional farm fields. After 45 minutes I pulled over at the Cumberland Knob Recreation area overlook and photographed my trusty steed with the mountains in the distance.

Biltmore EstateAs I continued on, I got a call from Lolo with a suggestion for lunch. She had grown somewhat concerned with my diet so far on this trip, and had found what she thought might be a more healthy fast food alternative. By tracking my projected progress she directed me to a Chipotle in Boone, N.C. At the time I had never eaten in a Chipotle so I headed off the parkway to enjoy a "healthy" mexican style lunch. I have to say that it was tasty,, but by the time I had finished adding sour cream and other embellishments I am sure it was a high caloric meal of with dubious health qualities. (This was before the recent norovirus outbreak would have made this choice of dining venue even more questionable.)

Fueled up, I headed back to the Parkway and almost immediately pulled over to stroll around the Moses H. Cone Memorial Park. A few photos, and the next pullout was at the Hefner Gap Overlook at elevation 3067 where a "bad helmet hair" selfie was taken. I had already been over the Pilot Ridge Overlook with an elevation of over 4000' so the heated jacket was dialed up even though I was in North Carolina and had thought I would be enjoying warmer weather.

Biltmore Estate GardensThe Ridge Junction at 5160' was the next stop and then off to the Craggy Gardens Visitor for a quick pee break. I met a couple of older guys there on BMW GS 1200's that were on their way to a BMW camping event so they could ride the "Tail of the Dragon" near Deals Gap. For those unfamiliar with this road, with "318 curves in 11 miles" it is considered one of the top 5 rides in the world, and one that I would try to get to in a few days.

After a few more miles I managed to navigate to the Super 8 in Ashville where I would spend the next two nights, allowing for a "rest day" where I could tour the Biltmore estate.

Up early in the morning I rode for the first time on this trip, without the extra burden of all my extra luggage. It felt liberating and simpler even as I navigated my way to the ticket area of the Biltmore Estate. Lorry had researched this and already purchased my ticket for a Tour of the Mansion at 11:30.

Women in Period Costumes at Biltmore EstateStrolling the beautiful gardens and the interior of the mansion I started to feel a bit lonesome for the companionship of my lifelong partner. When riding long distances on the motorcycle I have no longings since I know that Lorry would not actually enjoy the experience as much as I do. However, I know that she would enjoy a good Mansion Tour and stroll in the gardens so I had to make do with a phone call where I tried to give her the best virtual description I could.

The Mansion was as impressive as expected, but the volume of tourists made it a bit crowded. Also, I had become accustomed to going my own way as a solo traveler and now had to adapt to being just another of the many cattle herded around from room to room.

Afterwards I had a stroll in the gardens and sat down on a bench by the lake for a snack. My phone rang and Lolo asked me how I was enjoying the view (she could see me location on Google maps). That cheered me up a bit as I described the scene in front of me.

I took a bit of a detour while leaving the estate to enjoy the grounds, stopped at a Trader Joe's in Asheville to replenish my stores, and got back to my room in time to rest up for the next days journey west.