Travelogue

Our Coco Cabana casitaI was really excited about visiting Loreto. Everyone we met along the road had raved about it. When we decided to bug out a day early from Mulege, we went online and searched for hotels in Loreto with availability for the following night that were written up in our Moon guide. Coco Cabanas and Casitas came up, and the description and its location looked great, so we booked it for one night.

As I mentioned in the previous stop, we made the very worthwhile side trip to the lovely Mision San Francisco Javier before checking into Coco Cabanas.

I’m not sure if we booked a cabana or a casita at Coco’s, butwhatever it was, it was great. There was a large kitchen and dining area with a full-size refrigerator, microwave, coffee maker, stove, pots and pans, plates, glasses, etc. I had no intention of cooking, but it was nice to have as an option.

Coco Cabanas and Casitas poolStephan, the owner, turned out to be from Petaluma, California, which is two towns over from where we live in Sonoma County, so we chatted about that for a bit. He bought this place about 8 years ago, and only goes back to the States to visit his mother.

Right outside our room was a lovely pool surrounded by lounge chairs and a BBQ area. I definitely think this place is meant for people staying more than one night. Herb fixed that right away and added a second night onto our stay.

This was our 7th day in Baja, but the first that was warm and sunny enough to actually get into a bathing suit, so we did, and spent the next few hours lying in the sun, reading by the pool. I even took a quick dip.

Marina along the Loreto MaleconI had to come back home with at least a little bit of a tan. Even after just two hours in the sun, I had managed to get a little bit of color. Herb complimented me in his own unique way and said that I didn’t look so pasty. Thanks, I guess.

That evening we decided to take a walk into the main part of town to see the plaza and the mission. Our hotel was in a perfect location from which to take the ultimate Loreto stroll.

We maneuvered our way past the gang of perros (dogs), gatos (cats), and pollos (chickens) that hung around our street - I don’t think they even sell leashes in Mexico -- and walked down the street one block to the beach. To the left was a long sandy beach with hotels, and to the right was the Malecón, the one mile-long palm-tree-lined pedestrian walkway that runs along the waterfront.

Californa brown pelican gatheringAbout a quarter mile down the Malecón, we came to a long pier that wrapped around, creating a sheltered cove for a marina of small boats, most of them occupied by California brown pelicans. In fact, there were pelicans everywhere. Some were taking an evening stroll along the pier, others were gathering with friends on the boats, and the more industrious ones were diving bombing through the air in search of dinner - not much different than our plans for the evening.

Herb regretted not bringing his better camera, so we vowed to come back tomorrow night to photograph them during their dinner hour of dive bombing.

Lolo meandering along the Paseo SalvatierraWe continued along the promenade until we came to its end at the Paseo Salvatierra, another lovely pedestrian walkway, this one leading away from the water, under an arch of topiary trees, towards the plaza and the mission.

I loved this place!! Why hadn’t we spent our entire time in Baja here? Well, I guess we earned it by doing it the hard way. Anyone can fly here.

First, we came upon the Plaza Juarez, Loreto’s lively town square, lined with colonial buildings restaurants, and shops. People were dining aire libre (outdoors) at tables on the perimeter of the square, with musicians serenading them - not with standard Mexican tunes, but rather with American oldies like “Hotel California” and “Stairway to Heaven.” The same thing happened to us when we were in Thailand. Everyone just loves American music, or else they are just catering to their audience - elderly American tourists.

Mision Nuestra Senora de Loreto Concho - the Mother of all MissionsWe weren’t hungry yet because of our big lunch in San Javier, so we decided we would cook back in our casita and go out for dinner somewhere nice tomorrow night.

A little ways past the plaza was the Mision Nuestra Senora de Loreto Concho. Founded in 1697, this was the first Spanish mission in California (both Alta and Baja). At that time Loreto was the religious center of California, so new missions were built out from here on a network of roads known as El Camino Real. Loreto’s primacy was clearly stated over the church portal, “Cabeza y Madre de las Misiones de Baja y Alta California” (“Head and mother of the Missions of Lower and Upper California”).

Interesting to think that our home in Santa Rosa (once part of Mexico) is pretty close to the Sonoma Mission, which was the last Spanish mission built in California. It made me feel a bit closer to home.

We strolled back along the Malecón to our cozy casita, where we took advantage of our kitchen and made one of our backpacking meals, which we actually enjoy. Tonight’s entree was Idahoan powdered potatoes and Starkist salmon. That plus a glass of wine was just what we were looking for. Tomorrow night we would go out to the best Loreto had to offer.

Strolling along the Loreto BeachThe next morning, we walked back down to the beach, but this time rather than turn right onto the Malecón, we made a left and took a long. 3-mile stroll along the sandy beach, past beachfront motels and impressive private homes. There was definitely a lot of money in this town, probably much of it from Americans.

It was a lovely setting, sandwiched between the Sea of Cortez and the craggy peaks of the Sierra de la Giganta.

Back at Coco’s we ran into Stephan, our host, and asked him about possible hikes. He recommended Tabor Canyon, a hike he said he loved, but his wife hated, because it involved continuous scrambling over boulders. He also warned us not to leave any valuables in the car.

At little too much boulder scrambling in Tabor CanyonThis didn’t sound particularly appealing to me, but we decided to take a look anyway. The trailhead was only about 25 minutes away.

Sure enough, in the parking lot at the end of the dirt road, there was glass from a broken car window, making us not too comfortable with being away from the car too long. We did go into the canyon a little ways, scrambling over boulders large and small the entire time. Nervous about leaving the car, and feeling that we had better things to do with our brief time in Loreto, we turned around after about a half mile and returned to our car, which fortunately was just fine.

Back at the casita, we made lunch and worked on our tans by the pool for an hour to two.

Afterwards, we repeated our walk of the previous night and headed out onto the pier, this time armed with Herb’s bigger camera, equipped with faster focusing and a longer telephoto lens. We were going to get good shots of pelicans in all phases of their diving, if we had to stay here all night - or until we got hungry, whichever came first.

California brown pelican making his diveDozens of California brown pelicans were soaring back and forth over the water right in front of us. Often you would see one point his beak down, contemplating whether a dive would yield a tasty treat. Sometimes it was the signal that he was diving down; other times he would change his mind and continue circling around.

Herb and I developed this system where I would look for potential divers and shout out their location as an hour on the clock. Since they dive at speeds of 41 mph, a quick response was essential to capturing the event. People must have thought I was a crazy woman shouting out random times of the day.

After an hour and a half and over 700 shots taken, Herb announced that he thought he had gotten a decent shot or two (always the ultimate understater). After watching hundreds of pelicans have their dinner, it was now time for ours.

Entertainment at Mi Loreto RestaurantEveryone we had asked along the way about restaurants in Loreto had recommended Mi Loreto, both for its delicious food and its atmosphere. The TripAdvisor reviews confirmed it.

So, we continued on to the end of the Malecon, turned right onto the Paseo Salvatierra, and then walked right through the Plaza to Mi Loretto, right across from the mission. The place was bustling - obviously a popular choice. We put our names in and were told to come back in a half hour, not exactly a hardship as we could spend the time wandering around the square.

As promised, our table was waiting for us when we returned. The atmosphere was very cozy, and there were three hombres with guitars playing Mexican classics, such as “Guantanamera” and “La Bamba” - no “Hotel California” for us tonight.

Lolo contemplating her margaritaWe started off with margaritas - I am embarrassed to say, the first of our trip. I hadn‘t had one in a very long time, but I vowed to change that from this point forward. Everyone could use more margaritas in their life. This one was delicious, and quite large.

The food was the best so far on the trip. I had the flank steak fajitas and Herb, of course, had the chile relleno con queso.

The margaritas were so good that Herb ordered a second one, this time a Mi Loreto Margarita, a larger version of the first. Perhaps that explains his rather uncharacteristic romantic move to purchase the vase on our table to memorialize the evening. Not just any vase they had, but this specific one. $20 American dollars later, the waiter handed us the vase in a bag.

What a great evening, and a great closure to our wonderful visit to Loreto.

Description

Herb and his margaritaThe picturesque town of Loreto is located in Baja Sur, nestled between the Sierra de la Giganta and the Sea of Cortez. Because of its beauty and historical significance, it was designated a “Pueblo Magico” city in 2012, a distinction given to Mexican cities that offer visitors a “magical experience.” With a new commercial airport, it has become an easy weekend destination from the United States.

Some of the major attractions include

• Malecon - palm-lined pedestrian walkway the runs along the waterfront
• Plaza Juarez - Loreto’s lively town square, lined with colonial buildings restaurants, and shops
• Mision Nuestra Senora de Loreto Concho - first Spanish mission in California (both Alta and Baja), founded in 1697. At that time Loreto was the religious center of California, so new missions were built out from here on a network of roads known as El Camino Real. Over to the doorway of the church, it reads “Head and mother of the Missions of Lower and Upper California.”
• Paseo Salvatierra - pedestrian walkway from the mission to the malecon through an arch of topiary trees

Other excursions from Loreto include:

• Boat excursion to one of the five islands off the coast in the Parque Maritimo Nacional Bahia de Loreto to see whales, snorkel, or kayak
• Side trip to Mision San Francisco Javier, the crown jewel of the Baja missions
  

Travelogue

Tiled steps of Hotel Casa GranadaDuring my somewhat overly-cautious, pre-trip planning phase, I had booked two nights at Casa Granada Hotel in Mulege, because it was located at the mouth of the Bay of Concepcion, where the beaches were said to be fabulous. From the photos the hotel looked very nice, especially for $55 per night.

However, when our Baji expert friends in Kuyima were giving us tips and advice, they said that the town of Loreto was absolutely beautiful, but Mulege was kind of gritty. Hmm..Gritty was not exactly what I was looking for, so we decided to change our stay to one night and then drive further south to Loreto to spend more time. In retrospect, this was absolutely the right thing to do.

Roadside cemetery on the road to MulegeOn our drive down 1 to Mulege from Santa Rosalia, we passed a series of colorful buildings on the right, many of them with crosses and angels on their roofs. Wanting to see what they were, we made a U-turn and pulled into an unmarked dirt driveway. It turned out to be a cemetery and each of those small, colorful buildings was mausoleum. Set against a backdrop of cacti and mountains, it was a lovely, peaceful setting for families to visit their past loved ones. Each of the mausoleums contained photos, flowers, and various memorabilia associated with the deceased. These were obviously the graves of wealthy people, as their dwellings were far nicer than those for many of the living in northern Baja.

Rather than go directly to our hotel, which was located on the far side of the Rio Santa Rosalia de Mulege (Mulege River), which ran through town, we decided to stop first at the two historical sites mentioned in the Moon Baja guidebook.

Museo Historico de MulegeOur first stop was the Museo Historico de Mulege, a one-time prison turned into a museum. In its day, the prison had quite a unique detention policy in that prisoners were allowed to leave during the day to work in town, but had to return to their cells by 6 pm each evening. Just in case they didn’t have watches, a conch shell was blown to inform them it was time to come back. There wasn’t much concern about anyone escaping, because before the Transpeninsular Highway (Mexico 1) was built in the 1970s, you couldn’t get too far from Mulege. Sort of the same theory for the placement of Japanese internment camps in the U.S.

Today the museum houses an eclectic collection of historical artifacts - farm implements, typewriters, an old bomb, a colorful fake T-Rex, and much more.

Mision Santa Rosalia de MulegeAfter the museum we drove over to the Mision Santa Rosalia de Mulege. It seemed that every decent-sized town had one. I assume the missions came first, and then the towns built up around them. Still, Baja had several missions that could only be reach via bumpy dirt roads.

This particular mission was founded by a Jesuit priest named Padre Manuel de Basaldua, as a settlement for the local Cochimi natives, who he hoped to convert to Catholicism. When it was built in 1766, the Mision Santa Rosalia de Mulege became the fourth mission in Baja. This was the first mission that we were not able to enter because the doors were locked - and it was a Sunday. We assumed that perhaps there was an upcoming wedding, as there were wedding decorations on the door.

Rio Santa Rosalia de MulegeBehind the mission, we climbed up the steps of a rocky viewpoint and looked down at the lush and palm-lined Rio Santa Rosalia de Mulege flowing beneath us. It had a very different feel from the desert terrain we had been driving through for days.

Now that we had knocked off Mulege’s two major sites, we headed over to the Casa Granada, our home for the night. Their website photos didn’t lie. It really was lovely.

There was still a lot of time left to the day, so we took a drive down Mexico 1 to check out Playa Santispac, a very popular beach for camping on the Bahia Concepcion, especially so because it has a restaurant. It certainly was popular. There were large motorhomes lined up 10 feet apart all the way along the shoreline - not exactly our cup of tea. Also, the wind was so strong that camping in a tent would have been very unpleasant.

Windy Playa SantispacWe spoke for awhile with a girl from Colorado, who was sitting on the lee side of her truck with her dogs to get some protection from the wind. She said she had been coming to Baja since she was a kid and absolutely loved it. She had to go back to the States in a few days, but said she wanted to stay here 6 months next year. I have to say that I don’t get it. I guess we are not the types that are able to just chill for that long a time. We need to be moving - seeing new things and especially being active. To each his own.

Afterwards, we decided to check out the beach by our hotel. It was still very windy and the beach was not particularly pretty. However, there was a view of the lighthouse across the river, and we had fun watching a mother and her two kids digging around in the sand near the water’s edge. Before long, one of kids picked up something big enough to require two hands. They all gathered around as mom went to work on it and soon handed them something that they put in their mouths. Not being aficionados of raw shellfish of any sort, as Herb is highly allergic, I assume that was the prize.

Mulege lighthouseThat evening for the first time we did not have a restaurant in our hotel. We looked on TripAdvisor and found the La Serenidad Hotel next door had a very highly-reviewed restaurant. They were especially known for their Saturday night pig roasts, but since it was Sunday we would have to order off the menu.

The place did not look too impressive from the outside. In fact, it was surrounded on all four sides by a wall, making it appear like a military compound. We finally found the opening and were surprised how nice things were behind those walls - lovely pool where you could swim up to a bar, cozy restaurant with a fireplace, etc.

We got a table by the fireplace and had a delicious dinner . I had the fish tacos and Herb, once again, the chile relleno - he really needs to venture out a bit. Perhaps raw fish on the beach?

Description

Roadside memorialMulege is a small colonial town located at the opening of the Bahia Concepcion on the Sea of Cortez. Unlike the desert topography of the north, Mulege is a lush green oasis with palm trees, with the Rio Santa Rosalia de Mulege (Mulege River) running through before meeting up with the Sea of Cortez. In fact, “Mulege” is the Cochimi word for “large sandbar of the white mouth”.

In 1705, a Jesuit priest named Padre Manuel de Basaldua traveled north from Loreto to found a settlement for the local Cochimi natives. When it was built in 1766, the Mision Santa Rosalia de Mulege became the fourth mission in Baja. To visit this lovely stone church, follow Calle Zaragoza west up a slight hill.

Another place of historical interest is the Museo Historico de Mulege, a one-time prison turned into a museum. In its day, the prison was quite unique in its policy of allowing prisoners to leave during the day to work in town. 6 pm each evening, they were called back to their cells by the blowing of a conch cell. There wasn’t much concern about anyone escaping, because before the Transpeninsular Highway (Mexico 1) was built in the 1970s, you couldn’t get too far. Today the museum houses an eclectic collection of historical artifacts.

Travelogue

Iglesia de Santa Barbara de Santa Rosalia (Eiffel Church)Not wanting to linger for a mystery breakfast at Las Tres Virgenes, we had a quick Nature Valley bar and yogurt and hit the road, heading south on Mexico 1 towards Mulege, where we had a hotel reservation for the night. I was protesting the lack of coffee, but Herb didn’t want to use our camping stove for fear of setting our little rustic wooden cabin on fire.

The scenery was quite lovely as we approached the town of Santa Rosalia, mountains giving way to our first glimpses of the Sea of Cortez. As we approached the town of Santa Rosalia, we were confronted with two very contrasting views - the lovely, sparkling waters of the sea, and the industrial remnants of an old mining company. It was up to us whether we saw the gnarly old lady or the pretty young woman (optical illusion referred to in my trip overview). Without coffee, I was focused on the old lady.

The mining equipment along the highway once belonged to the thriving French El Boleo Mining Company, who founded the town in the 1880s and developed its infrastructure in return for the rights to mine the copper in the area. As a result, the town has a distinct French feel to it, very different from any we had seen to date.

There even was a church in town, the Iglesia de Santa Barbara, that was designed by Gustave Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame). Seeing that, and getting a much-needed cup of coffee, was the reason we turned off into the town.

Interior of Eiffel ChurchThe town was quite nice, with people bustling about in their Sunday finest on their way to festivities in the town plaza. The town was well-kept with upscale shops and lots of restaurants. It also happened to be the first town we visited in Baja Sur (as opposed to Baja Norte), which I don’t think was just a coincidence. From this point on, we would be along the Sea of Cortez, a big attraction for adventure tourists.

Of course, we stopped to see Santa Rosalia’s biggest attraction, the church designed by Gustave Eiffel. The story behind the church is quite interesting:

Eiffel never actually came to Santa Rosalia. Rather, back in 1884 while still in France, he designed a prefabricated metal church, made entirely of stamped steel sheet squares for easy portability, as a prototype for missionary churches in France’s tropical colonies. After being displayed at the 1889 Paris World's Exposition, where it won first prize for church design, it was stored in a Brussels warehouse and almost forgotten.

Meanwhile, back in Baja, the Boleo Mining Company had almost completed developing Santa Rosalia as a place for their miners to live. The one thing they still needed was a church. An official of the mining company learned of the church stored away in the Brussels warehouse and had it shipped to Santa Rosalia where it was reassembled in 1897. Sort of like a modern-day Ikea project.
Now on to Mulege.

Description

Santa Rosalia street artSanta Rosalia, in the northern part of Baja Sur, is the first town along Mexico 1 that is on the Sea of Cortez.

The town was founded in the 1880s by the French El Boleo Mining Company after copper was discovered in the area. The French were granted a 99 year concession in exchange for developing the town infrastructure. Hence, the distinct French feel to the town.

By 1900, Santa Rosalía had become a major world copper producer. However, the copper deposits were eventually exhausted and the El Boleo mining company closed in 1954. However, a Mexican state-owned company took it over until it was finally shut down in 1985. The area is still full of relics from the old mining days.

Another reminder of Santa Rosalia’s French past is the Iglesia de Santa Barbara (Church of Santa Barbara), which was designed by Gustave Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame). Eiffel never actually came to Santa Rosalia. Back in 1884 while still in France, he designed a prefabricated metal church, made entirely of stamped steel sheet squares for easy portability, as a prototype for missionary churches in France’s tropical colonies. After being displayed at the 1889 Paris World's Exposition, where it won first prize for church design, it was stored in a Brussels warehouse and almost forgotten.

Meanwhile, in Baja, the Boleo Mining Company had almost completed developing Santa Rosalia as a place for their miners to live. The one thing they still needed was a church. An official of the mining company learned of the church stored away in the Brussels warehouse and had it shipped to Santa Rosalia where it was reassembled in 1897.

The town is now experiencing a bit of an economic recovery due to a boom in adventure tourism and its proximity to the Bahia Concepcion. The completion of a ferry service across the gulf to mainland Mexico has also helped Santa Rosalia become a thriving tourist and service center for central Baja.

Travelogue

Eco tour cabins at Las Tres VírgenesSince our entire drive through Baja was along one two-lane highway (Mexico 1), we pretty much knew from the guidebooks everything there was to see.

After San Ignacio, the next notable site was Volcan Las Tres Virgenes, a series of three dormant stratovolcanoes - El Viejo, El Azufre, and La Virgin. They are part of the Desert Biosphere Reserve of El Vizcaino, an important habitat for endangered species, such as the bighorn sheep, about 500 of which live near the volcano.

According to the guidebooks, the only lodging option in the area is Eco Tour Las Tres Virgenes, which has 5 very rustic cabins (10 rooms) and a restaurant. Before leaving home, I had tried emailing them to see if any of the cabins would be available during the range of time we would be passing through, but despite repeated attempts, I had not heard back, so I wasn’t even sure if they were still in operation.

Herb enjoying his rustic cabin at Las Tres VírgenesThe views of the volcanoes was supposed to be stunning, so we figured we would take the short drive off of Mexico 1 and see if we could spend the night.

Our Moon Baja guide is very detailed in providing directions, so as directed at kilometer 31 (where there was a Federal Police car hanging out) we turned left onto a paved road and followed it for 3 km, before turning left onto a dirt road lined with white rocks leading to the lodge.

It seemed pretty deserted and at first we thought no one was there. As we were wandering around a woman came out and approached us. She spoke absolutely no English, but we knew enough Spanish to successfully determine that she did have a cabin available for us and that we should give her 20 minutes to clean it. The cost was 350 pesos ($18).

Our gato at Eco Tour Las Tres VírgenesI also quite incompetently tried to find out about dinner options. Stupidly, I asked for a menu, as if I was back in a New Jersey diner. There was no menu. Our entree would be whatever they were cooking that night. I wanted to make sure that whatever they served would not include shellfish, as Herb is highly allergic. I managed to say the Spanish word for shellfish, which is mariscos, while Herb put his hands around his neck and pretended to be choking himself. The woman just stared at him, probably thinking he was loco, and then said, “sopa de pollo,” to which we responded “Si”.

While we were waiting, we tried to make nice with the two perros (dogs) that seemed to own the place. Also while waiting, the Federal Police car drove in, which I have to admit made me a little nervous. Herb joked that they were stopping by to get their donuts. He wasn’t too far off because we later saw them having lunch in the restaurant.

There was also a man dressed in camo gear sitting at a table in the dining room by himself. Right behind him were a series of photos, one of which showed a hunter with a gun and his kill, which happened to be a bighorn sheep. I glanced back and forth from the man at the table to the photo and back to the man again. It was him. He must be one of the hunting guides that take wealthy Americans the Reserve to shoot bighorn sheep. I don’t understand how they allow endangered bighorn sheep to be killed in a Reserve that is supposed to protect them, but I guess at the $10,000 a head that American big game hunters are willing to pay for one of these prize animals, an exception is made. Thankfully, at least the number of sheep allowed to be killed is limited to 6 or so a year.

Our balcony overlooking the volcanoesAs promised, the woman returned and asked us to follow her to our cabin. She did not give us a key, as there was no lock on the door. The cabin was very rustic with a non-functional sink and a draft through the gaps in the wood. However, it was still better than sleeping in the 4Runner and the views of the valley and the volcanoes from our balcony were absolutely stunning.

We spent the final hours of sunlight, sitting on our balcony while watching the sunset over the volcanoes. It was quite lovely.

Not sure about the restaurant’s wine list, we poured ourselves a glass of wine and walked over to the restaurant, assuming it was a BYOB. Cooking dinner in the kitchen were three generations of women - grandma, the woman we had dealt with before, and her daughter.

Morning light on Las Tres VirgenesThe soup as good, but different than I expected in that the chunks of chicken in it were beyond bite-sized yet there was no easy way to break them up. Not wanting to use our choking sign for real, we managed to hack them with our spoons into a swallowable size. It was actually quite good.

There was no check, so I asked grandma, “Cuanto questa?” to which she placed her fingers close together and said “un poco”. However, her daughter cut in with more specifics and said 300 pesos ($15.50), which was almost as much as our cabin cost.

Back at the cabin, I half kiddingly asked Herb to place a chair in front of the unlocked door, so no one could get in. He suggested to me that that was unnecessary, but that chair eventually wound up against the door when the wind started blowing it open during the night.

The next morning we took photos of the volcanoes in the morning light before hitting the road again. Next stop, Mulege.

Description

Herb welcoming Las Tres Virgenes to a new dayAbout 45 minutes east of San Ignacio along Mexico 1 are the Las Tres Virgenes, a series of three dormant stratovolcanoes - El Viejo, El Azufre, and La Virgin. They are part of the Desert Biosphere Reserve of El Vizcaino, an important habitat for endangered species, such as the bighorn sheep, about 500 of which live near the volcano.

Hiking to the summit of the volcano requires is a 2-day trek, requiring the accompaniment of a local guide. Those that reach the summit are rewarded with views of the Sea of Cortez to one side and the Pacific Ocean to the other.

Despite the endangered status of the bighorn sheep, limited hunting is allowed at certain times of the year. In 2006, six bighorn sheep were allowed to be killed, and American big game hunters paid $60,000 (U.S. dollars) for that privilege.

The only option for lodging in the area is Eco Tour Las Tres Virgenes, managed by a local ejido (a family that holds the land communally). There are 5 very rustic cabins (10 rooms) with stunning views of the expansive valley and volcanoes. There is also a restaurant on site.

To get there, turn off Mexico 1 at kilometer 31 onto a paved road. After 3 km, turn left onto a dirt road lined with white rocks to the lodge.

Travelogue

Close encounter with a gray whaleWhale watching was the major reason for us coming to Baja in the first place, and if we could actually experience these impressive mammals up close, then we would consider the trip a success. They did not disappoint.

Baja is the place to go if you want to see gray whales, as they spend their winters there (usually from January to April) after making their long 7,000 mile journey south from the cold waters of Alaska. Tourists from around the world flock to Baja during these 4 months to see these massive, gentle animals that weigh up to 50 tons and are nearly 15 meters long.

There are three major places in Baja that they migrate to: Ojo de Liebre in Guerrero Negro, Laguna San Ignacio, and Bahia Magdalena. The shallow and protected waters of these bays are perfect for birthing and nursing calves.

Pile of shells on road to Kuyima Eco Tour campEach of these areas offer whale-watching experiences, where you can see them spout, breach, and spyhop (vertically poking its head out of water to take a look around). Unlike other whale-watching destinations, the gray whales of Baja actually seek out human contact and will often come right up to the boats, allowing themselves to be touched.

We chose Laguna San Ignacio, because it is regarded as the best place to experience a close-up encounter with the whales. The Laguna, which is located 33 miles southwest of the town of San Ignacio, has several eco tour operators offering whale-watching excursions - from single day 3-hour trips to 3-4 day packages where you stay in a cabana and go out each day. There are also options to camp, either with your own equipment or theirs.

Before leaving home, we had reserved two nights of camping, with our own equipment, and a 3-hour whale watching excursion with Kuyima Eco Tours. It cost us in U.S. dollars, $50 per person for the whale watching boat tour and $7 per night for camping - a bargain considering the experience is truly priceless.

A bit windy at the Kuyima Eco Tour campWhen we arrived in the town of San Ignacio, we stopped in the Kuyima office to confirm our reservation. From there, we drove the 33 mile road out to the lagoon. The road is paved the first 27 miles, and the remaining 6 miles of dirt road were easily navigable.

Upon arrival we were greeted by a very friendly, English-speaking staff member named Adriana, who showed us our campsite and explained the facilities, which consisted of environmentally-friendly toilets, sun-heated freshwater showers, drinkable water for cooking and washing, and a dining palapa offering reasonably-priced meals.

The weather was windy and freezing, so we put on every bit of warm clothing we had packed. There would be no sun-heated shower for us tonight.

The campsite location was lovely, set atop a small bluff overlooking the lagoon and the pangas we would be going out in tomorrow morning. We got out our chairs and a glass of wine and watched the changing light of a beautiful sunset over the lagoon.

Low tide in Laguna San IgnacioWhen it got dark, we took out our cooking gear and made our standard backpacking feast - Idahoan powdered potatoes and two pouches of Starkist lemon chicken, which is surprisingly tasty and much better than the freeze-dried commercial stuff.

Adriana came around to our campsite to tell us that our whale-watching tour was moved up from 10 am to 8 am to try to beat the strong winds that were forecasted tomorrow. I really hoped this would come off, as seeing the whales was the main reason we had driven 1,200 miles to this lagoon.

Because of the strong winds, we decided to sleep in the back of the 4Runner rather than set up a tent. Herb had built a nice sleeping platform in the back for just these types of occasions. My main problem with the platform is that there is only about a 6 inch clearance above my face when I am lying down, making me feel a bit claustrophobic, but it’s fine as long as I don’t think about it too much.

Campers gathered for dinner in cozy palapaWe actually slept quite well and woke up to a sunny, but chilly morning. The winds weren’t too bad yet, so we were hopeful. Our camping neighbors came over to say hi. They were a couple from San Diego that absolutely loved Baja and came down every year to spend several weeks. Their knowledge of the peninsula was invaluable, so we planned to get together after the boat tour so that they could mark up our Baja maps with places to see.

It was really cold, so we basically put everything we had on. I had five layers on top, the last three being a winter jacket, another down winter jacket, and a rain jacket to protect my down jacket from water. Long johns beneath long plants, gloves, and water shoes completed my outfit. Meanwhile, I had packed mostly sundresses and shorts for this trip, which I feared would never see the light of day.

We gathered near the pangas where we were given our life jackets and instructions as to where we could and couldn’t touch the whales, if the opportunity to do so arose. They also explained that whale watching in Baja is highly regulated, so our time in the section of the lagoon where the whales hung out was limited to 90 minutes, so that each eco tour operator would have their chance.

Our ride for tomorrows whale-watching tourSince we were going out in low tide, we had to wade out to and climb into the pangas. I felt pretty smug that I had brought water shoes, while most people had to take off their sneakers, but not so much so after I realized that I had worn small socks, which became and remained totally drenched during the entire trip.

Although the pangas could accommodate 8, we were fortunate to have only 6 people, plus Max, our captain. We moored out towards the opening of the lagoon, where the 120 or so gray whale inhabitants like to hang out. When we got there, Max just idled the engine and we waited.

It wasn’t long before we saw our first whale breach in the distance. Excitedly, everyone said “There’s one,” and pointed. Then another one and another one appeared, and soon they were so common that no one felt the need to announce them. Mostly they breached, sometimes flipping their tail in the air, but sometimes they spyhopped, which meant vertically poking their heads out of water to take a look around.

Rainbow whale spoutThey were really difficult to photograph because everything happened so quickly. Although many came within a few feet of the boat, we were never able to actually touch one, but that didn’t really diminish this amazing experience.

Our 90 allotted minutes in the whale watching zone went by so quickly, and we were so mesmerized with watching the whales that we didn’t notice that indeed the wind had picked up and there were now whitecaps in the lagoon. However, Captain Max got his 6 very satisfied passengers back to camp safe and almost dry. Everyone was exuberant about what they had experienced.

Back at camp, we had to decide what to do next. It was not even noon yet, and the winds were going to just get stronger and stronger as the day went on. Since we were not going out on another tour tomorrow, we decided to not camp that night, but to move on, as there were so many places we wanted to still see.

Spyhopping in the Lagunaefore leaving, however, we had a cup of coffee with John and Mary, our Baja expert neighbors, in the cozy and warm palapa where we spent an hour marking up our Baja maps with places they recommended to see, including many off-road adventures.

We said our goodbyes and headed back along the road to the lovely town of San Ignacio, where we thought we might spend the night. Realizing Kuyima had only charged us for the deposit, we stopped in the office near the plaza to pay the balance - quite trusting on their part.

We spent some time wandering around the square, where there is a beautiful mission and picturesque examples of colonial architecture. This was by far, the nicest town we had seen yet. What we were to continue to learn is that the towns in Baja Sur were much better kept, preserved, and attractive than in the north, perhaps because of (or the result of) the influx of tourists.

Mision San IgnacioAlthough spending the night in San Ignacio would have been fun, our time in Baja was limited, and we had so much we wanted to see. So we decided to drive on for a few hours, trying to stop for the night at Eco Tour Las Tres Virgenes (with the virgins being three stunning dormant volcanoes).

Description

Boarding our pangaEvery October, gray whales begin their 7,000-mile migration from the cold waters of the Alaskan seas to the warm lagoons of Baja California Sur, where they mate and give birth to their calves. The journey, which takes them two to three months, is the longest annual migration of any mammal.

Arriving in January, they remain until about April before returning north. During those four months, tourists from around the world flock to Baja to see these massive, gentle animals that weigh up to 50 tons and are nearly 15 meters long.

There are three major places in Baja that they migrate to: Ojo de Liebre in Guerrero Negro, Laguna San Ignacio, and Bahia Magdalena. The shallow and protected waters of these bays are perfect for birthing and nursing calves.

Whale tailEach of these areas offer whale-watching experiences, where you can see them spout, breach, and spyhop (vertically poking its head out of water to take a look around). Unlike other whale-watching destinations, the gray whales of Baja actually seek out human contact and will often come right up to the boats, allowing themselves to be touched.

Whale watching in Baja is highly regulated and the number of boats allowed in the lagoons at one time is tightly controlled. Guides take out groups of 6-8 people at a time in small, very seaworthy, fishing boats called pangas.

Laguna San Ignacio is regarded as the best place to experience a close-up encounter with the whales. The Laguna, which is located 33 miles southwest of the town of San Ignacio, has several eco tour operators offering whale-watching excursions - from single day 3-hour trips, to 3-4 day packages where you stay in a cabana and go out each day. There are also options to camp, either with your own equipment or theirs.

It is an experience not to be missed.

Travelogue

Hotel Mision CatavinaAfter leaving San Quintin, we had intended to stop at “La Lobera,” a sea lion sanctuary about a half hour south. However, the rains had made the 3-mile dirt access road to the sanctuary a muddy mess. The deep tire tracks, which showed vehicles turning around, made us decide not to take the chance. Besides, we had already seen so many sea lions in La Jolla. Still, it would have been nice to see.

Continuing on, we stopped to get gas in the small village of El Rosario, the last gas until Jesus Maria, 360 km south. Every guidebook insists the necessity of doing this. It was also our first mercado (market) stop. Like most roadside stores in northern Baja after the rains, the parking lot was a muddy mess. However, since I had not allowed Herb to bring more than the allowable beer across the border (rules are rules), he was going to get a 12-pack of Tecate no matter what it took.

Looking out from the old Catavina cave painting museumThere wasn’t much on the narrow, winding road between El Rosario and Catavina - just llanta (tire) shops, cacti, junk yards, cow crossing signs, more cacti, billboards no longer advertising anything, and dilapidated buildings covered in graffiti. Throughout the drive, on any surface that could be written on were the words “Morena, La Esperanza de Mexico” (The Hope of Mexico), which I assumed to be a politician running for office. One more thing about the cow crossing signs. Everyone of them had the cows wearing shiny red shoes. I have no idea why, even after googling it.

As we approached Catavina, the road led us through beautiful boulder fields, sprinkled with cacti and other desert plants, another example of the natural beauty to be found in Baja.

As we entered town there were a couple of pickup trucks selling gas out of tanks in the back of their trucks to those foolhardy enough not to have gassed up in El Rosario (in the north) or Jesus Maria (in the south).

Hiking up to the Catavina cave paintingsRather than stop to see the cave paintings, we decided to check into our hotel first. I had reserved a room at the Hotel Mision Catavina, owned by the same people that owned the Hotel Mision Santa Maria in San Quintin.

Like the Mision Santa Maria, the hotel was lovely - nice updated rooms, a courtyard with a fountain, and a nice restaurant. In addition, this hotel had a courtyard pool, but unfortunately the weather was much too cold to enjoy it. At $85 American dollars a night, it was a bit pricier than its sister hotel, but it was the only game in town. It was still cheap by American standards for a hotel of this caliber. Except I was annoyed that I did have to pay 30 pesos for an hour of internet.

We then set out to see the nearby are the Catavina Cave Paintings (Pinturas Rupestres), the most accessible cave paintings in Baja. The directions said to look for the blue INAH sign at kilometer 76 on the east side of Mexico 1. It didn’t look like an entry there, so we continued on for another 100 meters or so and pulled onto a dirt road marked Museo and campground.

1,000 year old Cochimi cave paintingsThe Museo turned out to be a dilapidated and crumbling geodesic dome, interesting, but long past its days of being informative. We continued down the dirt road through the campground past fields of cacti and other desert plants. There wasn’t a camper to be seen. We still were unsure if this was the place to see the cave painting. We hoped not, because with all the boulders on the hill, we wouldn’t know which one to look in.

Realizing we were in the wrong place, we got back on Mexico 1, turning off this time, as instructed, at the INAH sign. This was obviously the right place. There were information signs, which would have been informative if we knew Spanish, as well as an extremely well-marked trail, delineated by white stones, leading up a hill to a series of boulders.

Anatomically correct cactusWe waited in the car for a few minutes waiting for the rain to stop, before proceeding up the trail to the cave, an easy 10-minute walk.

The paintings are tucked inside a small cave at the top of a hill. They were fabulous - colorful yellow, red, and black geometric designs, abstract shapes, and a predominant sun, created by the Cochimi people about a 1,000 years ago. We sat in the cave for a few minutes, just us, and the spirits of the artists that adorned this cave so long ago.

That night we had dinner in the cozy hotel dining room. I was quite pleased with my planning so far, having found some pretty nice oases of civilization along the way.

Description

Old Catavina cave painting museumCatavina is a small town in the middle of the desert with a mini market and one hotel. There is no longer a gas station, but in its place are several pickup trucks selling barrel gas. Because there is not much between El Rosario and Guerrero Negro, it is a popular overnight stop for people passing through.

However, beyond its convenience as a stopover, Catavina has much to offer on its own. The terrain around the small town is a photographer's paradise, with its striking boulder fields sprinkled with cacti and desert plants.

Herb enjoying the artAlso nearby are the Catavina Pinturas Rupestres, the most easily accessible cave paintings in Baja. To find them, at kilometer 76 look for the INAH sign on the east side of Mexico 1. Park your car hear and follow the well-marked trail up the hill to the paintings - about a 10 minute walk. Their are informational signs along the way explaining the history and significance of this site. Unfortunately, they were all written in Spanish.

The paintings are tucked inside a small cave at the top of a hill. The drawings, done in yellow, red, and black minerals, depict a sun, geometric designs, and other abstract shapes. They were believed to have been created about a 1,000 years ago by the Cochimi people.

Travelogue

Trail down to Black's BeachAfter a very cool and rainy winter in Sonoma Valley, Herb was craving some well-need sun and warmth. In fact, that was the major impetus behind the decision to make the long drive to Baja.

The weather this winter had been so crazy throughout the West that we shouldn’t have been totally surprised when on our way over Tejon Pass, just north of LA, it started to snow. Fortunately, we were able to get over the pass before that section of I5 was closed.

Exhausted from our long drive, we stopped at a Days Inn in Encinitas for the night.

San Diego is a very worthy destination in itself, so rather than rushing across the border the next day, we decided to enjoy a day in San Diego visiting some old favorites and exploring some new.

Winter erosion on Black's BeachWe drove along the coast from Encinitas, stopping at Black’s Beach on the southern end of Torrey Pines State Beach, near the Glider Port. This was an old favorite from past visits. Getting to the beach requires descending 320 feet down a steep trail, with steps and handrails in the steep sections to make things a bit easier.

Upon reaching the bottom, we were astounded to find that there was barely any beach left. What had happened to our beautiful, wide sandy beach?

We had an informative exchange with a naked man feeding the seagulls. I tried to remain in eye contact at all times. Firstly, he explained that this is what winter storms do to this beach every year, with this one being a particularly bad one, but it would return in the spring. Secondly, upon hearing about our plans for the following week, he quite alarmedly warned us of the dangers and safety issues of traveling through northern Baja. “Be really careful,” was his parting words.

The sea lions of La JollaMy worst fears were coming to life - murderers, rapists, drug cartels, caravans filled with terrorists, “oh my.” Maybe Trump and Fox News were right. Nah, just kidding.

Thankfully, cooler heads (Herb’s) prevailed, so rather than turn back and rush towards the safety of home (my idea), we forged on. Not to give away the ending, but the Mexican people turned out to be some of the friendliest, most generous people we have met in our travels. Turns out they are just like us. As the great Mark Twain once said:

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime.”

California brown pelicansBased on our friend’s suggestion, we headed next to La Jolla Cove to see the seals and sea lions. We had been to La Jolla before, but somehow had missed the stretch of waterfront where the seals and sea lions like to hang out. There were dozens of them, just chillin’ on the beach. Unlike Point Reyes where you had to stay back at least a 100 yards from the sea lions, here you could practically ride them - if it wasn’t for the disembodied voice over a loudspeaker which piped up whenever a person got a bit too close.

As interesting as the sea lions, were the California brown pelicans also inhabited this stretch of the waterfront. I had never seen so many so close before. Their beaks were certainly quite impressive and very capable of storing a good meal.

After some delicious Italian sandwiches at Sicilia Bella, we headed over to Cabrillo National Monument out at the tip of the Point Luma Peninsula. We had been there a few years back, but it had rained so hard that we felt it was worth a return visit.

Point Loma tide poolsUnfortunately, we were thwarted once again - this time with Presidents Day traffic. The road leading up to the gatehouse was backed up for almost a mile. Instead of waiting, we decided to park alongside the road next to the Naval Cemetery and walk down the road to the tidepools.

The walk turned out to be longer and steeper than we expected, but eventually we got there and joined dozens of others scrambling along the rocks down to the tide pools. At the national park booth, I picked up a brochure identifying the various sea life to be found in the pools, but for some reason, nobody was home. We did not see a single crustacean, anemone, or fish of any sort. Still it was very pretty.

Our final stop of the day was the Costco in Chule Vista, where we stocked up on some supplies and exchanged dollars for pesos.

Tomorrow was the big day!

Description

The following is in no way intended to be a complete listing of sights to see in the San Diego area, but just those that we chose to visit during our quick pass through.

Torrey Pine State Beach

Resident of Black's BeachTorrey Pines State Beach in La Jolla extends for three miles from Carmel Valley Road in the north to the Glider Port at Torrey Pines Scenic Drive.

The north section of the beach is more easily accessible by car and is the choice for families.

Black’s Beach on the southern end is only accessible via two steep trails from the top of the cliff, where the parking lots are. This difficult-to-get-to beach is mostly frequented by two types: surfers looking to enjoy the huge winter swells, and nudists looking to enjoy some privacy. The nudists tend to hang out north of the Glider Port, while the surfers head to the south.

The south trail, which begins just south of the Glider Port, is easier and better maintained than the north trail, in that it has steps and handrails in the steeper segments. The north trail is much steeper and should be avoided if you are subject to vertigo. Both trails are about 1,000 feet long and have an elevation loss of about 320 feet.

It’s also fun to watch the hang gliders and paragliders soar from the Glider Port, atop the cliffs above Black Beach.

La Jolla

The good life for a Lo Jolla sea lionThe Native Americans originally called the site La Hoya, meaning “the cave,” referring to the grottoes that dot the shoreline. When the Spaniards arrived, they changed the name to La Jolla (same pronunciation), meaning “the jewel.”

Today, La Jolla certainly is a jewel, and a very expensive one at that. With its stunning coastline and upscale restaurants, shops, and galleries along Girard and Prospect Streets, it is one of the most affluent communities in America.

Along the waterfront is La Jolla Cove, a small cove flanked by two rocky points, where seals and sea lions, as well as California brown pelicans, like to hang out. The ocean here is part of the protected La Jolla Ecological Reserve and Marine Park.

The Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego is located on a bluff above the waterfront in what was once the residence of philanthropist Ellen Browning Scripps. The museum has over 4,000 works representing every major art movement of the past half century, with a particularly strong emphasis on California artists.

The University of California, San Diego is located in La Jolla, as well as the Scripps Institution of Oceanography, Scripps Research Institute, and Salk Institute.

Cabrillo National Monument

Point Loma tide poolsLocated at the tip of the Point Luma Peninsula in San Diego, the Cabrillo National Monument marks the site where in 1542 Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo became the first European to set foot on the West Coast of the United States. The Visitor Center has an “Age of Exploration” exhibit and film.

Right past the gatehouse, a road leads down to the tide pools, where you can clamber around on the rocks looking for tiny crustaceans, fish, and other sea life that live in these pools.

After visiting the tide pools, drive back up the road to the main road and turn right.Near the Visitor Center is a small circular plaza with a 14-foot statue of the explorer. The Plaza has an excellent view of San Diego and the harbor.

A short walk from there leads to the Old Point Loma Lighthouse, the highest point in the park. The lighthouse and adjacent Assistant Keepers’ Quarters has exhibits presenting what life was like for the lighthouse keepers in the 1880s.

Just south of the lighthouse is the Whale Overlook, a prime vantage point for viewing migrating Pacific gray whales traveling back and forth between Alaska and Baja California during the months of December through March.

The self-guided, two-mile Bayside Trail begins near the lighthouse and leads visitors through one of the last remaining remnants of a coastal sage scrub forest in the world. This trail offers views of San Diego harbor and the city beyond.

Travelogue

More examples of the economically disadvantaged Baja NorteI have to admit that I was a little nervous about crossing the border. Since I am much more of a stickler for rules than Herb is, to his annoyment I insisted that he bring in only the allowable three liters of beer (per person). If not, I wasn’t coming, fearing I would be thrown into a Mexican prison for smuggling in a 30-pack of Bud. Oddly, they do allow you to bring in six liters of wine or hard liquor, which doesn’t really make any sense to me, but it is the rule - so I followed it. They even have a bizarre rule where you are only allowed to bring in one stair stepper - that’s right. One is allowed, not two.

As per our agreement, Herb had performed his pre-departure duties of taking care of incidentals to keep us safe and out of jail. Discover Baja is a great resource for anyone traveling to Baja. Through them, Herb was able to get the highly suggested Mexican auto insurance ($25 per day for our intended stay) and the required FMM tourist permits to enter the country. I highly suggest getting the FMM tourist permit through them ahead of time, rather than at the Mexico Immigration Office. Their website also has great info on road conditions and places to see, as well as discounts on hotels, restaurants, and campgrounds throughout Baja.

Closed for businessWe very carefully followed the instructions provided by Discover Baja for crossing the San Ysidro / Tijuana border, first stopping at the blue building with the Mexican flag to get our FMM stamped. It was quite uneventful. They didn’t even search our car for excess Budweiser or stair steppers.

Back in the car, we crossed over the border and followed the signs for Playas de Tijuana/Rosarito-Ensenada. There are not that many paved roads to choose from in Baja, so all we had to do was follow Mexico 1 the whole way. 1 is supposed to be a toll road, but when we came up to our first toll booth, there was no one in the booth, but just a woman outside it holding a basket. At first we thought she was the toll collector, but when we asked how much, she said “libre,” which even with our limited Spanish vocabulary, we understood to mean free. She was just looking for a donation. This same thing happened at every toll both we passed through.

Hotel Mision Santa MariaFirst impressions of northern Baja were that it was a lot more undeveloped than I had anticipated, with much squalor, neglect, and poverty. Many structures (both homes and businesses) were dilapidated. There were junk yards and open garbage dumps (sometimes burning) in every village. The biggest business along the highway was selling llantas (tires) because the roads were so bad. Dogs, cats, chickens, and cows wandered freely alongside and sometimes even on the roads. Asphalt was non-existent except on the few highways that criss-crossed the peninsula, meaning that after a rain, all else was mud. In fact, we saw little girls coming home from school, wearing their Catholic school uniforms, navigating their way through and around the mud, seemingly with without a care. This was, after all, what they knew of life. Who was I to judge?

The other issue that made things quite stressful was the narrowness of the roads and the lack of a shoulder. For the entire duration of our time in Baja, we traveled on two-lane, undivided highways, with large trucks coming so close that you feared for your mirror each time one passed. The frequency of memorials along the road was a testament to just how dangerous these roads can be. Plus, when you left the towns and villages, the roads often became mountainous and winding. However, one thing I would have to say is that the speed limits reflect these dangers and are often quite slower than you would expect on a highway in the states.

Driving along the beach in San QuintinBecause of my trepidation with traveling in Baja, I had researched hotels and made reservations for our first few nights, selecting the ones in Moon Baja that had stars next to them.

We had chosen the town of San Quintin because it was about the right distance from San Diego (5 hours), had lots of services, and it had what looked like a really nice hotel called the Hotel Mision Santa Maria, right on a wide sandy beach. At $66 American dollars a night, it was a bargain and the most expensive hotel in San Quintin. In hindsight, I wouldn’t have booked two nights if I knew the weather was going to be so cold that we couldn’t spend time on the beach.

Lolo photographing the shipwreckThe town itself wasn’t so nice, so I was glad that we had to leave Mexico 1 and drive down a dirt road for 3 miles to get to the hotel. I was so relieved when I saw it. It was lovely.

Every room faced the beach and was recently renovated. There was a lovely sunny courtyard with a fountain, and a restaurant on site. The old woman of the optical illusion that I explained in the trip overview was giving way to that lovely young lady.

When making the reservation, on the hotel’s website there was a photo of a vehicle driving on the beach. We asked the desk clerk (the one who spoke English) about the possibility of us doing this. He explained that it was, but that they had to open a gate for us to get through.

Old shipwreck along the San Quintin beachAfter settling into the room, we decided to head out onto the beach. Sure enough, an employee was there to open the gate for us. Concerned about us getting past the big bumps and drops through the wash preceding the beach, he actually walked out onto the wash to show us the way, using the universal language of pointing and waving his arms in the air when we veered the wrong way.

The beach had hard sand and was quite easy to drive on. In fact, in seemed to serve as a highway of sorts for locals that sped by in their 2WD cars. Too bad the weather wasn’t better as we would have loved to spend the day relaxing and reading on a sunny beach, but the temperatures were surprisingly cool, even this far south. It didn’t feel much different than home.

Courtyard of Hotel Mision Santa MariaFar too chilly to put the beach chairs out. Instead, we just explored. Probably the most interesting find was a small pool of water containing the remains of an old shipwreck.

When we headed back to the hotel, our friend was waiting for us to open the gates. He, as everyone else we encountered while in Mexico, was extremely friendly and helpful.

That evening we had a delicious dinner in the hotel dining room. Herb had the chile relleno, which became his go-to during the trip and I had a very good chicken stuffed with spinach and peppers. That plus 2 glasses of white wine cost the equivalent of $22 American dollars (or 424 pesos, which seems so much more).

The next morning we awoke to clear skies, but chilly winds. After our standard breakfast of coffee and Nature Valley Oats and Honey Bars in the room, we took a 4-mile stroll out on the beach. Deciding it was too cool and windy, we spent the day reading in the sunny courtyard, protected from the wind.

Our hotel off in the distanceLater that afternoon, I went for a 5-mile run on the beach, which basically consisted of me running back and forth on the hard sand in view of Herb’s watchful eyes from our balcony. It felt so good to stretch the legs after so much driving.

We returned to the hotel dining room that evening, this time having quesadillas and a veggy omelette.

It had been a nice first stop in Baja, and a place I would highly recommend to anyone making the drive down Mexico 1.

Description

A stroll on the beachSan Quintin, in northern Baja about 5 hours south of the border, is a popular overnight spot for travelers heading south on Mexico 1. The town is primarily agricultural, with strawberries and tomatoes being the main crops. Most visitors head out to the beaches outside of town to spend the night, where it is quieter and more picturesque.

The nicest place to stay is the Hotel Misión Santa Maria, located on a beautiful, sandy beach, with all rooms facing the beach. There is a restaurant and bar on-site.

Travelogue

Day 1 - Arrival in the Valley

Hello again Half DomeWe arrived in the Valley around 3:30 in the afternoon, giving us just about an hour of daylight left to run around taking photos. The only downside to these spectacular tall granite walls is that they make the short days of winter even shorter. Still, they are well worth the trade-off.

Corny as it might sound, every time I enter this Valley, it feels like coming home.

We didn’t tow the Subaru behind this trip, so we were going to have to maneuver around the Valley and find parking in our motorhome. One thing we didn’t realize when deciding to come here this time of year was that mid- to late- February is the time of year when Horsetail Falls normally puts on its show, so the Valley is packed to the brim with tripod-wielding photographers.

The barren trees of winterWhen conditions are right - clear skies and enough snow for the waterfall to flow - there is a “firefall effect” in which the flow glows orange during sunset. The phenomenon only happens during mid- to late-February (usually peaking February 17 - 19), because during that time the setting sun hits Yosemite Valley at just the right angle to illuminate the upper reaches of Horsetail Fall.

Thousands of people come to the Valley during this time period to see the “Firefall,” and it has created a traffic nightmare as people just stop in the middle of Northside Drive and leave their cars to get to a good photo vantage point.

View along Four Mile TrailAs a result, in 2018, the National Park Service decided to test a new traffic pattern. The section of Northside Drive, from Yosemite Valley Lodge to the El Capitan Crossover, was closed to anyone without a permit to park within the “event zone.” Each day 300 free permits are made available (250 can be reserved online ahead of time and 50 are issued each day on a first come, first served basis). Since Northside Drive is the only way to exit the Valley normally, the rest of the roads were changed from one-way to two-way.

However, the 2018 winter so far had been a dry one, so there was no water flowing in Horsetail Falls. In other words, it was a dud. However, undaunted the Park Service continued to enforce their new traffic pattern, despite the fact that it was no longer needed.

So, we parked alongside the road in the non-event zone and got some pretty eventful photos anyway. Even barren trees are beautiful in this Valley.

Day 2 - Hiking the Four Mile Trail

Setting off on Four Mile TrailThere aren’t any hikes in and from the Valley left that we haven’t already done, but doing them in different seasons sort of makes them new again. We decided to do the Four Mile Trail up to Glacier Point, with a 3,200-foot elevation gain. I have a bone to pick with the person who named this trail. If they can rename the Ahwahnee Hotel the Majestic, I can rename this 4.8-mile hike the Five Mile Trail.

This is a great hike, but a very strenuous one as well. We started from the Valley Floor and after a brief flat area wandering through some boulders, which we had played around on with the boys before, we began to climb. In fact, from that point on, all we would do is climb, as we had a lot of vertical feet to gain.

What sign?It wasn’t long before the trail became snow-covered - not deep, jbut ust a few inches of packed snow. Unfortunately, we had not brought along our Yaktraks, but they weren’t really needed as long as conditions didn’t get worse.

The scenery started slowly, since we had to get above the Valley trees first, but once we did, all the icons of the Valley come into view - Yosemite Falls, Cathedral Rocks, El Cap, Half Dome, Clouds Rest, North Dome, and more. It was like a tour of Yosemite’s greatest hits. The tremendous views were a great distraction from the fact that we were climbing and climbing along a continuous series of switchbacks.

It's snowing on Half Dome!!At about 3 miles, we came to a gate with a sign that said “Trail Closed - Do Not Enter.” It didn’t look so bad beyond the gate, and there were other footprints forging on, so rightly or wrongly, we decided to duck under the gate and just go a “little bit” further.

We went another half mile to the turnoff for Union Point, a great viewpoint and place to have lunch. As we sat there eating, ominous clouds started moving into the Valley. By the time we finished lunch, it had even begun to lightly snow.

Winter Wonderland along the Four Mile TrailBack at the main trail, we met someone hiking down from Glacier Point, who had gotten a much earlier start this morning than we did. He said the views were becoming obscured by the clouds, and the trail conditions were worsening by the minute. Perhaps continuing on would not be such a wise idea after all. We decided to turn back rather than take the chance.

As we hiked back down the switchbacks, it really started to snow in earnest. It was truly a winter wonderland. I absolutely loved it!!

By the time we got back to the car, the meadows were already covered with a lovely blanket of snow. Time to get the motorhome safely tucked back into our campsite in Upper Pines before it got any worse.

I knew what we would be doing tomorrow - wandering the Valley taking photos of every one of its icons.

We had one more full day on our own before the kids arrived from San Francisco late tomorrow (Friday) night.

Day 3 - Wander around the entire snow-covered Valley taking photographs

The Mighty El CapWhen we opened the blinds the next morning, we were greeted with a lovely scene. The campground was covered in a pure white blanket of snow, and kids were already out, some still in their pajamas, throwing snowballs, making snow angels, and building snowmen.

I felt like a little kid waking up at Christmas. Herb was pretty excited as well, as he would get to spend the entire day wandering through the snow-covered Valley with his camera.

We decided to take the motorhome to use as a base camp for our day’s adventures, driving the entire Valley Loop, stopping at places to hike from along the way.

Middle Cathedral RockOur first stop was Sentinel Bridge, where we parked the motorhome and took a short walk into the meadow. How different everything looked when covered in snow.

From there we continued on to the El Cap Crossover and parked on Northside Drive just past the blockade for the Firefall “event zone.” From there we took a walk over to Southside Drive and Cathedral Beach, one of our favorite spots to photograph El Cap.

Fortunately I was wearing my bright red down jacket, which contrasted so much with the brilliant whiteness of the snow that I could be spotted in any picture, no matter how far away.

Lolo enjoying the snowAfterwards, we continued along Southside Drive, parking just west of the Yosemite Chapel, and used that as a base camp for the rest of the day. After lunch, we separated. I set out for a long walk while Herb stayed closer to home with his tripod.

My walk, which turned out to be a 4-mile one, took me through the meadow, over to Lower Yosemite Falls, back across Sentinel Bridge where I said hello to Half Dome, past the Yosemite Chapel, and back. It was so pristine and peaceful. Herb looked pretty peaceful and happy as well.

After a brief break in the motorhome to get warm, we set out again, this time west through the meadow, across Swinging Bridge, and followed undeveloped paths across the meadow towards Northside Drive.

Herb doing what he loves bestHerb moves a lot slower than me when he is photographing, so I found myself quite a bit ahead of him as the sun was beginning to disappear behind the granite walls. All of a sudden I came upon a spot where I had a great view of Sentinel Rock with the late afternoon light setting it aglow in brilliant red. It’s a phenomenon called alpenglow, which occurs as the scattered light from the setting sun hits the mountains. It was stunning.

I snapped a few shots with my iPhone, and then immediately ran back to find Herb, as I was sure he did not want to miss this. I got him back there just in time to take a photo or two before the show was over. He already had gotten one of Half Dome.

When photographing this Valley, it’s all about timing, whether it be the season or time of day. You could literally spend the entire day in one place, photographing it throughout the day, and each photo would be different.

Alpenglow on Sentinel RockHerb usually hates the cold, but today was so wonderful that I don’t even think he noticed it. He was so happy pressing the shutter that he never even bothered to put gloves on. My hands were freezing.

Around midnight, the boys and their girlfriends arrived for the weekend. Tommy and Erin had their new Promaster camper van, and despite the fact that it hadn’t been converted to a camper yet, they slept in it anyway on an air mattress. This did allow for a bit more roominess in the motorhome, although we have slept 6 in it. Soon, Andrew and Celeste would have a camper as well and then it would even roomier.

Everyone was leaving the nest.

Day 4 - Hiking the Yosemite Falls Trail with the kids

Yosemite Falls HikeUsually when the boys and their girlfriends come to Yosemite, they spend most of their time rock climbing. However, the snow, as well as a few injuries, made that impossible. Instead, we decided to do a big hike - to the top of Yosemite Falls, a strenuous 7.2-mile round-trip hike that climbs 2,425 feet above the Valley floor. Just looking up at the top of the falls and thinking about getting there on foot from the Valley Floor is pretty daunting.

We have done this hike twice in the past, once in the summer, and another time during a Thanksgiving trip with the boys, when we actually did encounter snowy conditions during the last mile.

Happy family on the hike to the top of Yosemite FallsThis time we would be starting off in snow, but fortunately, this time we had Yaktraks, which are truly life-changing and make otherwise impossible winter hikes possible. They are lightweight, easy to put on, and affordable ($21 on Amazon) traction cleats that fit over your shoes, keeping you from slipping and sliding on the snow and ice. After getting caught in snow on this very hike that Thanksgiving trip, we got them for each other for Christmas.

The trail begins next to Sunnyside Walk-in Campground (known to climbers as Camp 4), the rock climbers’ campground behind Yosemite Lodge. This hike doesn’t fool around. In the first half mile, it climbs steeply along a series of over three dozen switchbacks.

Trickling Yosemite FallsAt the 1 mile point, there is a short spur trail to Columbia Rock, where there is a breathtaking, 180-degree view of Yosemite Valley from Half Dome in the east to the Cathedral Spires in the west. It’s a great place to take photos, so we did just that.

In that one mile we had already climbed 1,000 feet in elevation, yet we still had not gotten a glimpse of the waterfalls. In fact, our first indication that we were getting closer to the falls was by hearing it, before we rounded a bend and it finally came into view. However, unlike past times, it was more of a trickle than a roar, for the same reason the Firefall was a dud - not much snow melt this winter.

Lolo contemplating the awesomeness of YosemiteHowever, it still was pretty awesome, so we forged on. The last quarter mile before reaching the top is a series of torturous, seemingly endless switchbacks. At the top, there is an Overlook which is actually below the top, which looks down from above back up at the falls. To get to it you have to go down an intimidating series of steps cut into the rockface, made even more intimidating by the fact that they were covered in snow and ice.

Since we had already done this Overlook in the past when the waterfall was really flowing, and the stairs did look really precarious, we collectively decided to declare victory and head back down.

Hiking down from Yosemite FallsAs always, going down a steep trail is often worse, especially on the knees, than going up. However, either I am getting in better shape as I age (or experience as I like to call it), or all the fun and laughter that comes along with hiking with the boys was a great distraction, because for some reason, the whole hike didn’t feel all that exhausting. In fact, it was quite fun!

We spent that evening, as we spend many cold evenings in Yosemite, cozying up in the Ahwahnee (excuse me, Majestic) Grand Lounge reading and playing cards. While I was there I made reservations for tomorrow's Sunday Brunch, something which has become a bit of a customary way for end our weekends with the kids in Yosemite.

Day 5 - Ahwahnee Brunch, Run around the Valley, and Departure

Ahwahnee BackyardAs I mentioned above, it has become something of a Gaidus Family tradition to wrap up every visit to the Valley with Sunday Brunch in the Ahwahnee Dining Room. Plus, Erin, our newest addition to the family, had never eaten here before, so we thought it was about time she did.

Although the food is quite good, it’s the setting that I savor the most> With its 34-foot-high beamed ceilings, granite pillars, chandeliers, and floor-to-ceiling windows, the dining room is truly “majestic,” although I will never call this iconic hotel by its new name.

Another tradition is walking the meal off a bit in the Ahwahnee backyard, enjoying the view of Royal Arches and strolling along the Merced River.

Post-brunch happy familyBefore heading back to the city, we decided to go for a family run - well sort of. Andrew and Celeste went for a long 10-miler, Tommy, Erin, and I went for a more leisurely 4 miler, and Herb and his tripod went for a photographic stroll.

After the kids left, Herb and I spent the remainder of the day wandering the meadow.

Tomorrow morning it was time for us to head home as well. Another great trip to Yosemite - is there any other kind?

Description

Yosemite National Park lies near the eastern border of California in the heart of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Its spectacular waterfalls, soaring granite cliffs, and lush meadows are just a few of the reasons it is considered by many to be nature’s ultimate masterpiece. In the words of John Muir, “it is surely the brightest and the best of all the Lord has built.”

This description will focus on Yosemite Valley, which is the section of the park we visited. Although the Yosemite Valley is just a small portion of Yosemite’s 761,268 acres, it is part receives 95% of its visitors. In fact, an estimated 4.1 million people visit the Valley each year, making it extremely crowded.

Two one-way roads traverse Yosemite Valley: the east-bound Southside Drive and the west-bound Northside Drive, which wind through woodlands and meadows along the base of the 3,000-foot-high granite cliffs. As of today, cars are still allowed to enter and drive through the valley, but visitors are highly encouraged to park their vehicles and use the park’s free shuttle bus, which stops at the major attractions in the valley.

Virtual Tour of Yosemite Valley Highlights

• As you enter the valley, the first sight you’ll see is the 620-foot Bridalveil Falls flowing down from a hanging valley to the valley floor. From the parking area, a short paved path leads to the base of the falls. This is one of the few falls in Yosemite that does not completely dry up in the summer.
• Just past the Bridalveil Fall parking area, the Southside Drive begins to trace the Merced River. Soon El Capitan comes fully into view. This 3,000 foot high granite cliff is the largest single piece of exposed granite in the world and one of the most famous landmarks in Yosemite. If you look closely, you might see small dots that are actually rock climbers along its face.
• Continuing east on the Southside Drive are two riverside picnic areas and beaches: Cathedral Beach and Sentinel Beach.
• Right after the Sentinel Beach parking area is the trailhead for the 4-Mile trail, which ascends more than 3,200 feet from the valley floor to Glacier Point and one of the most spectacular views of the valley.
• A short distance further is Swinging Bridge, another picnic and swimming area. This area is also the westernmost point of the 8-mile bicycle loop that goes through the eastern part of the valley. From this point on, the bike path parallels the road.
• Next stop is the picturesque tiny Yosemite Chapel where many outdoor enthusiasts choose to exchange wedding vows.
• Now you enter the congested and developed portion of the valley.
• Right past the chapel, you can either take a left onto Sentinel Bridge towards Yosemite Village and the park exit, or you can continue straight towards Curry Village, the campgrounds, and Happy Isles Nature Center. For now, let’s stop at Sentinel Bridge for what is probably the most spectacular Half Dome viewpoint in the park. It’s a great spot for a photograph of Half Dome with the Merced River in the foreground.
• Continuing east on the Southside Drive, you pass Housekeeping Camp and Curry Village. Curry Village has lodging, restaurants, bicycle and raft rentals, a grocery store, and other shops. Curry Village is also one of the main parking areas in the valley.
• From Curry Village you can either take Northside Drive across the Ahwahnee Bridge back to Yosemite Village and the park exit, or continue east to the campgrounds. The Happy Isles Nature Center is also this way, but only shuttle buses are allowed on the road to it.
• The Happy Isles Nature Center features exhibits on the natural history of the park. It also serves as the trailhead for some of the best hikes in Yosemite. 1.5 mile trail leads to the top of Vernal Falls and then continues another 1.5 miles to the top of Nevada Falls (two waterfalls that flow even in the summer time). From there you can continue even further into the backcountry of Yosemite, including the cable route up the back of Half Dome.
• From Curry Village, the Northside Drive crosses the Ahwahnee Meadow, a wonderful spot to gaze at Half Dome during sunset, and enters Yosemite Village, the main center of visitor services in the park. Here you’ll find the park’s main Visitor Center, restaurants, lodging, shops, a grocery store, a post office, a medical clinic, the Ansel Adams Gallery, an Indian Cultural Exhibit and more. It’s also a good place to park your car and jump on the shuttle.
• A short dead end road from Yosemite Village leads to the majestic old Ahwahnee Hotel, which has played host to Queen Elizabeth, President John F. Kennedy, and Clint Eastwood, to name a few. This beautiful six-story rock structure offers tremendous views from every room. Within the hotel is the elegant and quite expensive Ahwahnee Dining Room (jackets required for dinner).
• Back on the Northside Drive heading west from Yosemite Village, the next stop is the Yosemite Falls parking area. At 2,425 feet, Yosemite Falls is the highest waterfall in North America. It is actually three waterfalls in one, with an upper, middle and lower section. A short walk from the parking lot along a paved walk leads to the base of Lower Yosemite Falls. This is the most visited landmark in the valley. Except in summer when the fall temporarily dries up, you’ll be sure to be covered in spray.
• A little further west on the Northside Drive is Yosemite Lodge, which marks the end of the developed area of the park going west.
• Right after Yosemite Lodge is Sunnyside Campground/Camp 4, a place where most rock climbers choose to congregate. From this campground begins the popular and strenuous Yosemite Falls hike, which ascends 2,600 feet from the valley floor to the top of the Upper Falls. The views from the top are incredible.
• Continuing west, there is nothing but woods and meadows from which to enjoy the views. Along the road there are several pullouts where you can stop and walk down to the Merced River for a swim. Just after the El Capitan Bridge, you’ll come to the El Capitan Meadow where you’re sure to find people looking through binoculars at the miniscule rock climbers clinging to the granite face.
• Just to the west of El Capitan, Ribbon Falls plunges over 1,600 feet down to the valley floor. It is the seventh highest waterfall in the world. However, it too dries up in the summer time.
• Finally the road nears the end of the Northside Drive at Valley View where El Capitan, on the left, and Cathedral Rocks, on the right, frame a magnificent valley view.

Several guided bus tours are also available. The 2-hour Valley Floor Tour is a great way to get acclimated. Visitors ride through the valley in an open tram while a guide leads a informative discussion of Yosemite’s history and geology. There are many photo stops along the way. In addition, there are bus tours out of the valley to Glacier Point, the Mariposa Grove of sequoia trees, and Tuolumne Meadows.

Although much of Yosemite can be enjoyed from the comforts of your car or a shuttle, the best way to truly experience Yosemite is do get out and experience it more directly..

Things to do in Yosemite

• Hike one of the many trails around the valley, ranging from an easy walk to the base of Lower Yosemite Falls to the strenuous 16-mile round trip hike up the back of Half Dome via cables
• Take an overnight backpacking trip
• Bike along the 12 miles of bicycle paths that loop through the Valley. Rentals are available at Curry Village and Yosemite Lodge.
• Rock climb in one of the premier climbing places in the world
• Raft down the calm waters of the Merced River through the valley. Rentals are available at Curry Village.
• Swim or tube in the Merced River. Besides the designated beaches, there are many pullouts along the road from which you can walk down to the river.
• Join one of the many ranger walks, which are offered daily
• Take a free art class at the Yosemite Art and Education Center
• Photograph the amazing scenery of the valley and surrounding granite cliffs
• Browse the Ansel Adams Gallery and see some of the photographs that first made Yosemite famous
• Relax in the meadow while gazing up at Half Dome or El Capitan
• Dine at the 5-star Ahwahnee Hotel, where presidents and royalty have stayed

Although many try to see Yosemite in a day, it is best to devote several days to seeing all the park has to offer. Besides the numerous hotels, lodges, and cabins in the Valley, there are three RV campgrounds: Upper Pines (238 sites), Lower Pines (60 sites), and North Pines (81 sites). That’s less than 400 campsites to accommodate all the people that want to camp here.

Since these campgrounds usually fill-up within the first hour they become available, it is essential to make your reservations as soon as possible. Campground reservations are available in blocks of one month at a time, up to five months in advance, on the 15th of each month at 7 am Pacific time. For example, if your arrival date is July 15 through August 14, the first day you can make reservations is March 15. The National Park Reservation System can be found at www.recreation.gov. Good luck!