Robinsons Island National Park

Monday, July 26, 2004 - 3:30am by Lolo
20 miles and 0.5 hours from our last stop - 1 night stay

Travelogue

Cavendish was lots of fun, but we were ready for something a little quieter and more remote. That’s what’s nice about PEI National Park—there’s something for everyone. If you want lots of action and man-made entertainment, then Cavendish, along the western part of the park, is the place to be. However, if you want the more natural beauty of a secluded beach, then the Robinsons Island section of the park is the right choice. We tend to find that it’s good to mix things up—a little time in Cavendish to satisfy the kids’ need for amusement and then on to Robinsons Island to enjoy a beautiful beach to ourselves. It’s the contrast that makes things interesting.

Herb with filmless cameraHerb with filmless cameraAlthough we had been unable to get a campsite at the Cavendish National Park Campground, we had no trouble getting one at Robinsons Island, and the reason for that was—no hookups. We find that it’s pretty easy to go a few days without a hookup, and the willingness to do so has given us the opportunity to stay in some very scenic and uncrowded campgrounds. Robinsons Island was definitely one of them. Although most of the sites are wooded, we chose to stay in one of the open grassy sites right on Rustico Bay. I’m not sure why anyone wouldn’t—the view from the motorhome was spectacular. Perched in beach chairs at the edge of a small bluff, we could sit back and watch herons feeding in the bay.

After lunch, we hopped on our bikes and rode a short distance down a dirt road to a deserted red sand beach at the mouth of Rustico Bay. The beach was quite lovely and the water was warm. Unfortunately, the numerous jellyfish carcass that lined the shore—and the ones that we could see in the water—made the thought of swimming less than inviting. As an alternative to swimming, we decided to have a photography contest. This is something that we started since Tommy got his digital camera, and we find that besides being entertaining, it’s a great way for the kids, and us, to really see things in a different way. Also, we’ve taken some great photographs in the process. What we do is assign a theme or topic, such as texture, wildlife, reflections, etc., and then we each take a picture to fit that theme. Then comes the judging, which surprisingly doesn’t get too ugly. Amazingly enough, we all seem to agree on the winning shot.

Boy's on Rustico Bay BeachBoy's on Rustico Bay BeachThat night before dinner, Andrew and I decided to go on a run—separately, of course, as he is much faster and finds it embarrassing to run with his mother. I’m not sure where he went, but I ran back down the dirt road to the beach and along the water for awhile. The sun was getting low and the lighting was perfect. As I ran out on a spit of sand that jutted out into Rustico Bay, I just couldn’t resist any longer. I took off my sneakers and jumped in, taking my chances with the jellyfish. It was wonderful—except for having to put my sneakers back on my now wet and sandy feet.

Back at the campsite, we barbecued and watched the sun set over the bay--very lovely and another great photographic opportunity. Unfortunately, the bugs soon came out in droves, making it impossible for us to remain outside any longer. It’s too bad. This place would have been perfect if it weren’t for the jellyfish and the bugs. That’s what prompted our decision to not stay a second night, but to move on and explore another section of PEI.

Description

Prince Edward Island National Park encompasses a 24-mile stretch of red sand beaches along the island’s north central coast. Park activities include hiking on its numerous trails, swimming in the warm waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, digging for clams, kayaking in the protected bays and rivers, cycling on its roads and trails, and bird watching.

Rustico Bay BeachRustico Bay BeachThe park is separated into sections by various bays and inlets. West of Rustico Bay is the very popular and often crowded Cavendish section. Here you’ll find the park’s largest campground (260 sites), a supervised beach, and the spectacular hiking/biking Homestead Trail. Reservations are not accepted in the campground, so plan to arrive early in the day.

East of Rustico Bay is the much more remote Robinsons Island Campground (148 sites – none of which have hookups), which has wooded sites as well as open area sites right on Rustico Bay. From the campground, it’s just a short walk down a dirt road to the secluded, unsupervised sandy beach at the mouth of Rustico Bay.

2 ½ miles east of the Robinsons Island Campground is the very popular Brackley Beach, where there are lifeguards and changing facilities. Another 5 miles east is the Stanhope Campground, which is located just across the park road from another supervised beach.

Cavendish

Sunday, July 25, 2004 - 8:15am by Lolo
175 miles and 3.5 hours from our last stop - 1 night stay

Travelogue

Although the boys do enjoy natural beauty and outdoor activities, they do have the occasional need for a commercial fix, and Cavendish, PEI was just the ticket. While most of PEI is rolling farmland and quiet red sand beaches, Route 6 in Cavendish is lined with t-shirt shops, mini golf, a wax museum, a Ripley’s Believe it or Not!, and even two amusement parks. Thank goodness. We had been promising Tommy that we would take him to an amusement park for his birthday (which was now 2 days ago), but there was absolutely nothing of the sort to be found in Newfoundland—which is perhaps what Herb and I liked so much about the island.

Herb and Lolo on Homestead TrailHerb and Lolo on Homestead TrailThe reason that Cavendish is so built up and developed seemed kind of strange to me. It became the tourist center of the island because it is the home of the fictional character Anne of Anne of Green Gable, who is so popular that thousands of tourists come here each year to see the places written about in the book and to walk where Anne walked—fictionally at least. There is an Anne of Green Gables Museum, a playhouse performing the Anne of Green Gables musical, the National Park run Green Gables House, and so on and so on. That might have been the basis for Cavendish’s popularity, but gradually more and more non-Anne related attractions kept getting added to the area to satisfy the entertainment needs of the Anne fans. Now even non-Anne fans, such as us, could enjoy the many non-natural wonders of Cavendish.

The boys were ready. However, the first order of business was finding a place to stay for the night. We were a little concerned when we found out that the National Park Campground was full, but we were able to get a site at Sunset Campground, a very large commercial campground right on Route 6 in the heart of the action. The campground was quite nice and had lots of recreational facilities. After some mini golf and ping pong, we hopped on our bikes and headed out to Route 6 to see the sights.

Lolo and Boys on Homestead TrailLolo and Boys on Homestead TrailOur first stop was the Ripley's Believe it or Not! Museum where we saw some very unusual and downright strange exhibits—some of them quite amazing and definitely hard to believe. Our personal favorite was the mirror that you looked into to see if you could curl your tongue. That was nothing. The real exhibit was around the corner where you got to watch the fools that came along after you, contorting their faces into what was actually a 2-way mirror. It was quite entertaining.

After the museum, we stopped at the Sandpit, a small amusement park where the kids’ highlight was definitely the “Indy” go cart racing. Then back near the campground, we had pizza and ice cream and did some browsing in the shops along the Sunset Boardwalk.

The next morning, before leaving Cavendish, we drove into the National Park which was right across Route 6 from our campground. Actually, the whole shoreline of Cavendish is part of Prince Edward Island National Park, which has a large 300-site campground as well as a very popular supervised swimming beach. The reason we were in the park, however, was to mountain bike the Homestead Trail, which I had read about in my Mountain Biking Atlantic Canada book. It was as good, if not better, than described. The 6 ½ mile trail had a little bit of everything—sweeping views of sand dunes and red stone cliffs along New London Bay, salt marshes, woods, and farmland. There was amazing variety for such a short distance. We stopped to take some interesting photos of the rolls of hay in a farmer’s field. Except for the bugs, of which there was many, it was a near perfect ride.

Description

Cavendish is located along Route 6 on the northern coast of central PEI. It is best known as the home of the fictional character Anne of Anne of Green Gable, whose enduring popularity has attracted thousands of tourists to the area to tread the grounds that Anne walked. As a result, Cavendish is the most tourist-oriented part of the entire island and this once bucolic area is now full of motels, numerous commercial campgrounds, a wax museum, a Ripley’s Believe it or Not! Museum, amusement parks, mini golf, etc. Fortunately, most of the tourist attractions are confined to a small stretch of Route 6, and you only have to travel a few miles in either direction to get back to rolling farmland and quiet beaches.

Lolo and Boys on Homestead TrailLolo and Boys on Homestead TrailThe shoreline of Cavendish, on the northern side of Route 6, is actually part of PEI National Park. Here there is a large and very popular, supervised beach, a large National Park campground with over 300 sites, and numerous hiking trails. There is also a great family bike ride—the Homestead Trail. This 6 ½ mile, well maintained trail meanders past red stone cliffs and sand dunes along the shore of New London Bay, and then inland through salt marshes, woods, and farmlands.

The National Park also has a small section on the southern side of Route 6 that includes the Green Gables House, interpretive exhibits related to the book, hiking trails, and an award-winning video presentation on the life of L.M. Montgomery, the author of Anne of Green Gables.

The north shore of PEI is also home to the famous lobster suppers, which originated many years ago as potluck suppers in church basements. Today, these suppers are big business. The Fisherman’s Wharf Lobster Suppers in north Rustico can accommodate 500 diners at a time and has a 60-foot salad bar to complement its lobster.

Gros Morne National Park (Trout River)

Monday, July 19, 2004 - 9:00am by Lolo
170 miles and 4 hours from our last stop - 1 night stay

Travelogue

We left Route 430 in the town of Wiltondale and headed west on Route 431 to explore the southern section of Gros Morne National Park. Since the northern and southern sections of the park are separated by Bonne Bay, visiting the southern section meant driving out and back about 30 miles each way. From what we had read in the guide books though, it sounded like Trout River Pond was worth it. Also, the campground at the end of the 30 miles was supposed to have great views of the pond, which actually wasn’t a pond at all, but rather a 9-mile long landlocked fjord.

Trout River PondTrout River PondI was starting to get a little concerned about the weather. Yesterday on the ferry it had been so sunny and promising, but now a thick fog had moved in, and it looked like it was here to stay. There were two things we had feared about a trip to Newfoundland—the weather and the bugs. We hadn’t had any problems with bugs yet (that would come later), but the weather certainly looked like it was going to be a challenge. In fact the name “gros morne” actually means “big gloomy” because of the fog and clouds that often just hover in the valleys.

Our first stop was at the Tablelands Overlook to see the area that had made this part of the park a World Heritage Site. What looked to me like any old rocky plateau of rust-colored rocks was actually a geologist’s paradise—a section of the earth’s mantle brought to the surface by Continental Drift. Geologists come here from all around the world to experience this unique opportunity to study the earth’s inner core close up.

Herb and Boys on Tablelands hikeHerb and Boys on Tablelands hikeWhile gazing out at the Tablelands and trying very hard to be appropriately geologically moved, we happened to notice a video camera on a tripod in the corner of the otherwise deserted parking lot. Closer inspection of the equipment revealed that the camera was actually still filming. How strange and creepy! Where was the owner? What could possibly make someone, voluntarily at least, leave behind thousands of dollars worth of state-of-the-art equipment? We weren’t quite sure just what we should do. The imminent threat of rain and the belief that the next person that came along would most likely keep the equipment, convinced us to take it and turn it over to the Park Rangers at the Trout River Campground. I think they were quite surprised when we did. They radioed our find to the various ranger stations in the park and had us fill out some forms. They informed us that if no one claimed it in 6 months it would be ours. I wasn’t sure what to root for. This was the video camera that Herb has been lusting for.

We got a campsite for the night, but I was quite disappointed to find that the views of Trout River Pond that the guide book raved about were only possible from 2 of the campsites, both of which, of course, were taken. The rest of us got to look at a bunch of bushes. Since there was nothing to do at the campground, Herb went for a run while the boys and I biked down the dirt road to the Day Use Area to see what kind of fun we could stir up. The boys are usually pretty good at this and can make even the most mundane activities seem quite exciting.

Trout River PondTrout River PondWe decided to try to bike the hiking trail along the shore of the pond, which I had read about in the guide book. The trail traces the shore of the pond for 4 ¼ miles to a point called the Narrows, where the cliffs almost pinch the pond in two. It’s supposed to be quite impressive. Should be a piece of cake by bike—or so we thought. The trail started off along a narrow boardwalk, raised about 2 feet above the ground, which totally freaked me out for some reason. My bike, which I normally ride quite proficiently, was wobbling madly back and forth, precariously close to the edges of the boardwalk, quite to the boys’ amusement. From there the trail proceeded up and down a steep, root-strewn path that obviously was not meant for biking. Needless to say, the kids thought it was great. I admire their spirit! I, however, had already dismounted my bike and was lugging it over roots and up hills so steep that the bike almost fell back down on me. Finally, I convinced the boys to turn back, although I did regret not getting to see the Narrows.

That evening the kids played Frisbee and Herb and I had a glass of wine in the campground picnic area, which actually did have a nice view of the Trout River Pond. However, soon as dusk began to fall, we were greeted with Newfoundland’s second challenge—bugs, and lots of them. We quickly retired to the safety and comfort of our motor home.

The next morning we arose to the sound of a steady rain hitting the roof of the RV, so we decided to sleep in. A short time later, we were awakened by a knock on our RV door, a sound which always fills me with apprehension. Standing out in the rain was a woman, who identified herself as the owner of the camera equipment we had turned in the day before. She thanked us profusely and explained that she was the Artist in Residence at Gros Morne this month and that some of her work was on display at the Discovery Center. We were glad that we had been able to help her, but I must admit that getting that camera in 6 months sure would have been nice.

Despite the rain, we stopped at the Tablelands on the drive out to hike the 2 ½ mile trail through sections of the earth’s mantle. It just had to be done, rain or shine. We caught up with a ranger-led walk and got to learn a bit more about the geological significance of the area. After the hike, we stopped at the brand new Discovery Center where we saw a wonderful film of what Gros Morne would look like, if we could ever see it through the fog.

Description

Gros Morne National Park is located on the western coast of Newfoundland, at the southern end of the Great Northern Peninsula. It was named "gros morne," which means "big gloomy" in French, because of the fog and clouds that often hover in its glacial valleys. However, despite its often imperfect weather, the beauty of its snow-capped mountains, land-locked fjords, and sandy beaches make it truly one of Canada's gems. In addition to its beauty, its Tablelands area, which is actually an exposed portion of the earth's mantle, is so important geologically that in1987 the park was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The park is divided into a north and south section, separated by Bonne Bay, which makes it a bit of a challenge to travel through. There is no loop drive through the park, but rather one must drive out and back to visit each section. However, the drive is well worth it. This stop describes Trout River and the Tablelands, in the southern portion of the park.

To explore the southern section, exit Route 430 (the Viking Trail) in the town of Wiltondale and follow Route 431. The road ends at Trout River in about 30 miles. Along the way is the brand new Discovery Center in Woody Point, where there are hands-on activities, interactive exhibits, and films explaining the beauties and wonders of this park.

Right past the Discovery Center is the area called the Tablelands. A 2.5-mile out and back hike leads through this fascinating, rust-colored plateau which, as mentioned above, is actually the earth's mantle pushed to the surface. You can do this hike on your own or join one of the informative ranger-led walks.

Continuing on Route 431, the road dead-ends at the Trout River Pond, a beautiful 9-mile-long landlocked fjord. There are two ways to explore this magnificent fjord. One is an 8.5-mile out and back hike along the north shore of the pond. The hike can be made shorter, but not if you want to view the Narrows, where the pond is practically pinched in two by tall cliffs. The more relaxing way to see the fjord is to take the 2 ½ hour Tableland Boat Tour, which departs from the Trout River Pond day-use area 3 times a day in season (10:00 am, 1 pm, and 4 pm).

There are two drive-in campgrounds in the southern section of the park. The Trout River Pond Campground is located on a plateau overlooking the pond. Unfortunately, only 2 of the 44 sites really have a view of the pond. The Lomond Campground, located about 10 miles from Route 430, has great views of Bonne Bay and the Long Range Mountains.

Acadia National Park

Sunday, July 11, 2004 - 3:30am by Lolo
150 miles and 3 hours from our last stop - 2 night stay

Travelogue

Acadia was not in our original itinerary for this trip, but when we saw that it was only 40 miles off of I95, we quickly changed our route and plans—Acadia is not the kind of place you want to just blow right by. Knowing how busy Bar Harbor can get in the summer, we made reservations for 2 nights at the Bar Harbor KOA (previously called Barcadia). The campground had a great location, just minutes outside the park, and right on Western Bay. Fortunately we were able to reserve one of the oceanfront sites—a bit pricey (about $50 a night), but well worth it. The views were marvelous, especially during low tide when the rocky shoreline and tidal pools were exposed.

Family on SummitFamily on SummitWe arrived quite early in the day, because of our decision to drive all the way to Augusta the previous night, so we had a whole day ahead of us to enjoy the park. Our first stop was the visitor center, where a knowledgeable ranger told us about a great hike with lots of rock scrambling, exposed cliffs, and spectacular views—the Beehive.

We headed out on the Park Loop Road to Sand Beach, which was near the trailhead for the Beehive hike. Before starting out on our trek up the mountain, which incidentally did look very much like a beehive, we headed down to check out the beach. It was quite crowded and there were even some very brave souls swimming in the frigid waters. Although it was quite nice, we all agreed that we liked the beach much better the last time we were here, but that was a very different situation. In the winter of 1999, as part of our first winter RVing experience, we camped in the Blackwoods Campground in the park, and the kids learned to cross country ski on the trails along this beautiful rocky coastline. Our memory of this beach from that trip is one of complete and total solitude with only our tracks disturbing its pristine snow.

Hiking the Beehive TrailHiking the Beehive TrailAlthough having Acadia to yourself in the winter is an unforgettable experience, there’s a lot to be said for summers here as well. The sun was out, the day was warm, and we were ready to take on the Beehive.

What a terrific hike!—however, not one for the acrophobic. It started off with some basic rock scrambling and gradually worked itself up to some pretty hairy sections where we had to grab onto metal handles fixed into the rock to climb up or traverse across exposed cliffs. I must confess to using more parts of my body than necessary to deal with some of the more difficult sections. In less than a half hour, we reached the 520 foot summit where the views of Sand Beach and the ocean beyond were stunning—well worth the palm sweating it took to get here.

Rather than retrace our steps, we decided to go down the back way along the Bowl Trail. Everything was going along just fine until I heard Andrew, who was hiking behind me, yell, “Mom, look out!” and heard the distinct sound of something rolling down the hill. For some unexplained reason, I didn’t turn around to see what was happening, but just froze in place—legs planted to the ground. The next thing I experienced was extreme pain as a boulder (or large rock as Andrew prefers to tell it) about the size of a basketball smashed into the back of my Achilles tendon. I saw stars. “Poor Andrew!” I thought. This wasn’t the first time he had taken me out with a rock on vacation (see Olympic National Park, 2001). He felt terrible. A rock on the trail had come loose when he stepped on it and zeroed in on me as its target. My ankle was already swelling up and turning colors by the time I limped back to the RV.

View from the Beehive TrailView from the Beehive TrailAs we sat in the RV with ice on my ankle, we all wondered the same thing—What was this going to do to our trip? After all, we were only 2 days into a 3 ½ week adventure and our vacations are always centered around active stuff. What if something was seriously wrong with my foot? I was starting to feel pretty depressed. What if I couldn’t run anymore?

Thinking that was the end of any more activity at least for that day, Herb suggested heading back to the campground. “Oh, no,” I said. It was going to take a lot more than this to stop me. I might not be able to walk, but I could still ride a bike. Not totally convinced that this was a wise idea, Herb continued on the Park Loop Road to Eagle Lake where we had been told about a nice bike ride. After a little struggle getting my sneaker over my now swollen ankle, I was able to bike the 6 miles of carriage roads around the lake without too much difficulty. It was very pretty and I felt much better knowing that my vacation wasn’t totally ruined.

That night back at the campground, Herb and I relaxed with a glass of wine on the rocks by the beach while the boys pedaled madly around the campground in little rental go-carts. To each his own. We waited for the sun to set over Western Bay before letting the bugs and the cool night air chase us inside. It really was an incredible location.

Brotherly love during Western Bay boat tripBrotherly love during Western Bay boat tripThe next morning we arose early to start the process of inflating our 12-foot Avon inflatable raft, which we intended to use to explore Western Bay. This silly little raft, which when not being used lives in a big bag at the foot of the kid’s bed over the cab, has provided us with some of our most wonderful vacation experiences. With it, we have explored the Pictured Rocks along Lake Superior, cruised along Lake Powell and the Flaming Gorge Reservoir, rafted down the Snake and Colorado Rivers, and much more. It has definitely earned the space it takes up in the RV. To propel the raft, we bring along a 6 hp motor, which we attach to a support Herb built by the back ladder of the RV when not in use.

As we putted out into the bay, there were a fair number of people watching us—I’m not sure if they thought we were nuts or whether they were just envious. Probably a little bit of both. We headed east under the bridge that connects Mount Desert Island with the mainland and found a secluded island to have lunch on. Just as we were commenting how great it was to have this whole island to ourselves, a group of about 10 kayaks rounded the corner and shouted, “Mind if we share?” Of course we minded, but what could we say? Pretending that we were just getting ready to leave anyway, we shoved off and found another secluded island. This time it was gnats rather than kayakers that chased us off.

We came across some local fisherman digging for mussels and clams in the sand now exposed by the receding tide. They warned us that if we didn’t go quickly, we wouldn’t have enough water to get back under the bridge to our campground and would have to wait for the tide to come back in. Heeding their advice, we quickly set off carefully looking over the sides for rocks. During our cruise back, we had the good fortune to follow a school of dolphins leaping playfully in the water.

The trip was quite relaxing and the scenery was beautiful, but I think that the boys would have had a much better time if they could have gone swimming. The water was just too darn cold. I tried to reassure them that the water would actually get warmer as we traveled north into Canada, but I don’t think they believed me. But it’s true. Because of the gulf stream, the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence are as warm as the waters off of Virginia and the Carolinas. I sure hope the guide books are right.

After dinner that evening, we bought a blueberry pie from a couple in an old VW Beetle that drove around the campground each night selling pies. It was absolutely the best pie we had ever had—practically overflowing with fresh Maine blueberries. I wish we had bought some more.

Description

Acadia National Park, located on the rugged coast of Maine, encompasses 45,000 acres of mountains, forests, lakes, and rocky coastline. Most of Acadia is on Mt. Desert (pronounced "dessert") Island, with some other bits of the park on small islands and the Schoodic peninsula. Although Acadia is the fifth smallest national park, its 4.2 million annual visitors make it the second most highly visited park in the country.

Lolo on rocksLolo on rocksMount Desert Island has been a popular destination since the mid-19th century when the town of Bar Harbor became a thriving summer resort community for the most prominent members of society. Families such as the Vanderbilt's, Rockefellers, Carnegies, and Astor's built elegant mansions, which they called "cottages," along its beautiful rocky coastline. For over 40 years, much of high society summered here until the Great Depression and World War II ended such extravagant living. The real end came to society life here when the Great Fire of 1947 destroyed numerous hotels and more than 70 mansions.

Fortunately, the wealthy inhabitants of Bar Harbor loved the natural beauty around them and donated land, time, and money so that this land could be preserved for future generations to enjoy. Thanks to the untiring efforts of George B. Dorr, in 1919 Acadia became the first national park east of the Mississippi River. It was actually called Lafayette National Park at that time, but in 1929 the name was changed to Acadia.

BeehiveBeehiveThe 45 miles of carriage roads throughout the park were the gift of another summer resident and philanthropist, John D. Rockefeller, Jr. He loved the park and wanted to create a way for people to enjoy its beauty by horse and carriage, rather than by motorcar. Rockefeller, who had a gifted eye for landscape architecture, constructed the roads in such as way as to take best advantage of the park's beauty. Today these carriage roads are a wonderful way to explore the park, both on foot and by bike. Also, in the winter, they are ideal for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.

In addition to the carriage roads, there are over 120 miles of hiking trails, many of which have spectacular ocean and woodland views. Most of the hikes in the park are fairly short to moderate. One very exhilarating and scenic hike is the Beehive trail, which starts just north of the Sand Beach upper parking lot. The hike is not for those with a fear of heights, as it requires using a series of fixed metal handles to climb up steep trails and traverse across exposed cliffs. However, the stunning view of Sand Beach and the ocean beyond make the struggle worthwhile. It takes about 30 minutes to get to the 520 foot summit.

One of the longest trails in the park is the 7.4 mile (round trip) hike to the summit of Cadillac Mountain. The Cadillac Mountain South Ridge Trail starts just south of the entrance to the Blackwoods Campground, climbs through the woods for awhile, and then cuts above the treeline as it approaches the summit. The trail, which rises 1,340 feet in 3.7 miles, is fairly strenuous.

By car, the best way to see the major sights in the park is to drive the 27-mile Park Loop Road (which includes a 7-mile round trip up Cadillac Mountain). In summer time, the road becomes extremely crowded, so it pays to get an early start. The road is one-way in a clockwise direction, with the exception of a two-way portion near the start that allows direct access to the Cadillac Mountain Road. Some of the many interesting stops along the way include:

  • Frenchman Bay Overlook - scenic views of the bay and Schoodic Peninsula
  • Sand Beach - pretty beach made of crushed marine shells. Supervised swimming is available in the invigorating, chilly water.
  • Thunder Hole - a narrow slot in the rocks along the coast named for the roaring sound produced when trapped air is squeezed out of a chasm by the incoming surf
  • Otter Point - tidal pools to explore (an hour or two before low tide)
  • Wildwood Stables - wagon rides on the carriage roads
  • Jordon Pond House - meals and traditional tea on lawn
  • Cadillac Mountain - 3.5 mile switchback road to the summit, which is the highest point on the eastern seaboard north of Brazil

There are two campgrounds within the park boundaries--Blackwoods, which is open all year round, and Seawall, which is only open in the summer. Although there are not many facilities in the park, there are numerous restaurants, shops, hotels, campgrounds, etc., in the nearby resort community of Bar Harbor.

Wal-Mart - Augusta

Saturday, July 10, 2004 - 1:30pm by Lolo
385 miles and 7 hours from our last stop - 1 night stay

Travelogue

Lazy Daze parking in Wal-MartLazy Daze parking in Wal-MartI’m embarrassed to admit it, but the mention of a Wal-Mart always brings me happy feelings and fond memories—but I have a good explanation. Wal-Mart parking lots are often the first overnight stop on one of our cross country adventures. Those first days are usually very long driving days, just trying to get within striking distance of our first real destination. Why spend the money on a commercial campground, when all you need is a place to sleep? Once it gets dark and the shades are pulled down, you can pretend you’re anywhere, so a Walmart’s just as good a place as any to stay on these kind of nights.

I think some of my happiest moments on an RV trip are these first nights in a Wal-Mart. The whole trip is ahead of us, spirits are high, and we haven’t had a chance to get on each other’s nerves yet.

Description

Wal-Mart Supercenters allow RVs to park in their parking lots over night since they are open 24 hours. This particular Wal-Mart was located in a shopping mall. However, the stores other than Wal-Mart closed at 9:00 p.m.

Home

Thursday, July 31, 2003 - 11:00am by Lolo
341 miles and 6 hours from our last stop - 1 night stay

Travelogue

Well we made it home safely--just a little over 3 weeks on the road. We had revisited some old favorites and definitely found some new ones.

This trip had been different for us. Rather than trying to cover a lot of ground and superficially touching a lot of places, this time we just selected a few places and dug deeper and stayed longer--definitely a more relaxing approach.

I'd have to say that this trip was a family favorite to date. It's going to be a hard act to follow.

Description

Our home in Upper Saddle River, a suburb of New York City.

Emlenton - Gaslight Campground

Wednesday, July 30, 2003 - 9:00am by Lolo
408 miles and 7 hours from our last stop - 1 night stay

Travelogue

Rather than try to make a 13-hour push for home, we decided to stop in western Pennsylvania and enjoy one last night of vacation together. We chose a campground a few miles off Route 80 in Emlenton, PA, in what I believe is Pennsylvania Dutch or Mennonite country. The campground was immaculate. I have never seen cleaner bathrooms, and the owner was mowing an already perfectly manicured lawn. It was so meticulous that I almost felt uncomfortable. I guess the work ethic is pretty high around here.

After a swim in the immaculately maintained pool, the kids quickly gravitated to the fishing pond, which was stocked with bass. They had become quite avid fishermen this trip, learning to catch, clean, and even cook their own trout. After getting tired of catching nothing but sunfish, they started stalking the foot-long goldfish that resided in the pond. It seemed like a good idea at the time, but they both were pretty repulsed when they had to remove it from their hook.

That night we settled in for one last cozy night in the RV. The last stop of a trip always has a special feel to it, kind of hard to describe--a mix of contentment and, for me anyway, a tiny hint of sadness. I know that as soon as we hit our driveway, the phone will start ringing and the kids will be running in eight different directions, and we'll be lucky if we even see them for dinner. Although I know this is a good thing and the way things should be, I certainly will miss the closeness and camaraderie that goes along with 3 weeks of being on the road together.

Description

Immaculately maintained campground right off I80, with a fishing pond and large swimming pool.

Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore

Tuesday, July 29, 2003 - 12:00pm by Lolo
460 miles and 8 hours from our last stop - 1 night stay

Travelogue

It took quite a bit of persuasion to get Herb to stop at Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore again. We had been here 3 years ago on the return of another one of our cross country ventures and been quite disappointed with what we found. Although the dunes themselves were quite impressive, the park was sandwiched between Gary and Michigan City, both very industrial towns with clouds of smoke spewing from some very large and highly visible smokestacks. To add to our displeasure, the lake had been closed for swimming because of a high e.coli count.

Boy's playing in the dunes overlooking the e.coli ridden lakeBoy's playing in the dunes overlooking the e.coli ridden lakeHowever, since there really weren't many other places to stop along this stretch of I80, we decided to give it another try--after all, the dunes were quite spectacular. We arrived late afternoon and were very lucky to even get a site. This campground is quite popular and located in close proximity to some highly populated cities.

Since it was getting late, we immediately hopped on our bikes and rode down to the beach, hoping to spend an hour or two relaxing and swimming. As we pulled up to the beach, there it was again--the "No Swimming due to high e.coli count" sign. I couldn't believe it. Of course, Herb had this smug "I told you so" grin on his face.

Undaunted and determined to have some fun, we climbed up the Devil's Slide, a steep dune overlooking the beach. It was perfect for rolling and tumbling down, and we truly did have a good time on it.

Herb, still seeming to carry a grudge against this place, started laughing and reading aloud from the long list of park regulations in the brochure. He just hates parks with too many do's and don't. The "No Llama" regulation is what finally put him over the top. I have a funny feeling that we won't be back here again.

Description

Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore, which stretches about 15 miles along the southern shoreline of Lake Michigan between Gary and Michigan City, has some of the highest dunes along the Lake Michigan shoreline. These dunes are called "living" dunes because they continue to move inland a few feet each year, burying plants and trees as they go.

Within the National Lakeshore, a 3-mile section of the beach is actually a very popular State Park. This is where most of the action and facilities at Indiana Dunes are located. There is a large beach pavilion complete with snack bar and gift shop, a nature center, a lifeguard protected swimming beach, over 16 miles of dune hiking trails, and a large 286-site campground.

Another popular trail is the 9.2-mile Calumet Bike Trail, which is located in the National Lakeshore section of the Dunes about 2 miles inland. This trail runs along a railroad bed through a wide variety of habitats--beach, sand dunes, black oak forest, and marshes.

Prairie Rose State Park

Monday, July 28, 2003 - 12:00pm by Lolo
513 miles and 8.5 hours from our last stop - 1 night stay

Travelogue

Andrew and Tommy fishing in Prairie Rose State ParkAndrew and Tommy fishing in Prairie Rose State ParkAfter a long day of driving, we stopped at a pretty state park in western Iowa, not too far off Route 80. It was just what we were looking for--a campsite with a nice view of a lake and decent fishing to entertain the kids. A beautiful sunset over the lake was an added bonus.

We usually try to encourage the kids to mingle a bit with the other kids in the campground to get an exposure to what it's like in other parts of the country, but unfortunately, this doesn't happen as often as we'd like. Since they have each other, they don't feel a need to find other kids to entertain them. I guess it would be a very different experience traveling as an only child.

It took a little pushing from Herb, but that night the kids went down to the dock and got some local expertise in the art of catching crawdaddies. Apparently, the goal of catching these little lobster-like creatures was dinner. The kids weren't quite ready for that much local flavor yet, but they had fun catching them anyway.

Description

Prairie Rose State Park is a very pretty 422-acre park in western Iowa near the town of Harlan. The 218-acre lake is the focal point of the park. Facilities include a swimming beach, boat ramps, picnic areas overlooking the lake, and a 97-site campground with electrical hookups. The lake is also good for catching bass, channel catfish, flathead catfish, bluegill and crappies.

Fort Morgan

Sunday, July 27, 2003 - 10:30am by Lolo
154 miles and 2.5 hours from our last stop - 1 night stay

Travelogue

As we crossed the Rockies and descended into the plains, we knew we had left the West behind. There was no gradual transition between mountains and grasslands, but rather it felt like a switch had been flipped. All of a sudden, everything had a different feel to it. Gone were the snow-capped peaks, rugged canyons, and rushing rivers that accentuate the West. We were in the Great Plains now with it seemingly endless miles of grasslands and farms.

We drove a few hours to the town of Fort Morgan in the northeast corner of Colorado where we found a very pretty city park that allowed overnight camping. There was a large pool, complete with waterslides, open to the public and recreational facilities such as tennis, volleyball, and basketball. Unfortunately, we arrived as the pool was closing for the day, but it still was a very pleasant place to stay.

A very interesting phenomenon took place that evening after the sun set. As we finished our dinner, Herb noticed that there was quite a bit of traffic going past our RV, which was parked on the loop road inside the park. Eventually, we began to recognize the cars going past and the loud Latino music emanating from their speakers and realized that they were driving round and round the loop, circling the park as if they were in some sort of parade. They weren't speeding or making trouble of any sort, but just slowly circling the park in their souped-up cars.

Finally we realized what was going on. This was some kind of mating ritual in which the male species circled the park showing off their cars in an attempt to attract the female species. It was like watching a National Geographic documentary.

That night we were lulled to sleep by the rhythm of Latino music and finely tuned engines. I'm not sure how long the parade went on or what the outcome was for the participants, but it certainly provided us with an interesting insight in another culture. That's what makes traveling to different places so much fun.

Description

Fort Morgan, located east of the Rocky Mountains in northeast Colorado, was originally founded in 1864 as a military post to protect travelers on the Overland Trail. Today it is a shipping and distribution hub for the agriculturally rich area surrounding it.

Right off I76 is a very pretty city park-- Riverside Park and Canfield Recreation Area--with picnic areas, volleyball, basketball, and tennis courts, a playground, and a swimming pool open to the public. The park also offers free overnight camping.

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