Travelogue

Lolo Kayaking in Wagon Creek InletThe drive north up 89 to Lake Siskiyou near Mt. Shasta was scenic and relatively short -- just a little over 2 hours – a perfect driving day for Herb.

We had been to Lake Siskiyou Camp Resort before and really enjoyed boating around the lake with the formidable Mt. Shasta looming over us. On our last visit, Mt. Shasta had been completed blanketed in snow making for some very awesome pictures. This time, however, we were shocked to see that the volcano was brown with only tiny patches of snow. Granted, it was August and last time we had seen it in May, but from what we heard and read, the snow deficit resulting from the drought was pretty historic. In fact, during the prior two winter seasons, the Mt. Shasta Ski Resort was barely able to open, hurting the local economy that depends on the influx of skiers to the area.

Kayaking around Lake Siskiyou

Herb Kayaking in Wagon Creek InletSince the day was still young, we launched our kayaks at the boat ramp, and spent the day paddling around the lake. I couldn’t believe what a difference the lack of snow on Shasta made on the overall experience. It probably would have been better if I didn’t know what I was missing, because then I could have enjoyed the lake and its beautiful surrounds more without lamenting what wasn’t.

Going counter-clockwise around the lake, we soon came to the Lake Siskiyou Splash Zone, where there were several large inflatable structures to climb up on and jump from. It looked like a lot of fun. I was tempted to get out of the kayak and play on some, but I hadn’t purchased a ticket, which costs $8 per hour. Also, everyone else playing on them was either under 10 years old or a parent.

Continuing on, at about halfway around the lake, we paddled into Wagon Creek Inlet and passed under the picturesque, green, arched pedestrian bridge, which provides a perfect frame for photos of Mt. Shasta in the background. This is my favorite part of the lake.

After floating and eating lunch, we continued along the northern shore of the lake, stopping once more at an interesting area where the shoreline is studded with stumps that are normally submerged during wetter times.

All in all, the trip around the perimeter of the lake was 5.9 miles and took us a little over 4 hours – and that’s with lots of just lean-back-and-float time included.

Hiking Gray Butte and Exploring Mt. Shasta City

Subaru in Old Ski Bowl parking lotI often consult my Moon California Hiking book when selecting a hike. I like the way they rate hikes on a scale of 1-10 for scenic beauty and 1-5 on difficulty (one being the easiest). The hike to the top of Gray Butte near Mt. Shasta was rated a 10 and 2, respectively – perfect!!

The 14-mile drive along the Everitt Memorial Highway from Mt. Shasta City to the trailhead was a worthwhile activity in itself. We intentionally drove past the Panther Meadow Campground, where the trailhead was, and continued about another mile to the Old Ski Bowl parking lot, the highest point you can drive on Mt. Shasta.

While today, this is the starting point for several hikes, including the one to the summit, it used to be a downhill ski area. Built in 1959, this early day ski resort was pretty ill conceived. Located in a huge open cirque above the tree line at 8,000 feet, it was constantly plagued with avalanches, whiteouts, and road closures. During a 1959 storm that lasted 5 days, it received 16 feet of snow, breaking a Guinness Book of World Records record.

Lolo with Romantic Art WorkAlthough it was in operation for nearly 20 years, a huge avalanche in 1978, which destroyed its main chair lift, finally resulted in it permanently closing down. Eventually in 1985 a new ski park was built lower down on the mountain in an area below the timberline that was safe from avalanches. Ironically, its problems the last two years have been due to lack of snow.

It was too early for us to utilize one of the picnic tables in the cirque, but we did take time to admire the romantic art work – a heart and “Love” spelt out in large white rocks.

We drove the short distance back to the Gray Butte trailhead in Panther Meadows Campground. From the campground, we passed through lovely Panther Meadow, with Mt. Shasta constantly in our sights, before entering a red fir forest.

At about 0.6 miles, we came to a junction with the Gate Trail, which leads off to the north toward a volcanic valley that some believe to be the mountain’s sacred portal to the spiritual dimension. We decided to skip the spiritual dimension for today and continued south along the more secular Gray Butte trail.

Lolo Hiking up to Gray ButteAs we continued our climb along the eastern side of the butte, the trees changed from red fir to hemlocks. In fact, this area is recognized as one of the best hemlock groves in northern California. About a mile into the hike, we passed through a clearing along the top of a large talus slope falling off to the east, where we could see Red Butte off to the left.

At about 1.2 miles, we made a sharp turn to the right (west) and began hiking along the southern side of Gray Butte. From here, our views were more of the manmade variety as the towers and antennas of the Gray Butte communication facility came into view off to the south.

At 1.6 miles, the trail went right (north), and we climbed along a clearing with stunted hemlocks. Another 0.3 miles and a short scramble over sharp volcanic rock brought us to the 8,119-foot summit of Gray Butte where we were rewarded with tremendous views of Castle Crags, Mount Lassen, and, of course, the ever present Mt. Shasta.

This is an out and back hike, so from there we retraced our steps down to Panther Meadow Campground.

Lolo on Descent from Gray ButteRather than head right back to the campground, we decided to explore Mt. Shasta City for a bit, starting with lunch at the highly Yelp-rated Yaks Cafe. It did not disappoint with its artisan coffees, gourmet burgers, excellent salads and sandwiches, and much more. We had a very delicious salad and coffee.

Herb wanted to pick up some foam to support the kayaks on the roof rack, so we stopped in a local hardware store. Everyone was so extremely friendly, helpful, and yes, spiritual – something you don’t often find in a hardware store.

As with many other volcanoes, Mount Shasta is considered to be sacred, and spiritual seekers from around the world come here for healing and transcendence. Even customers in the hardware store were talking about their spiritual health. We just needed foam.

Like Sedona, Arizona, Mount Shasta is believed to be the site of a spiritual vortex, an area of high energy concentration originating from magnetic, spiritual, or unknown sources. Vortexes are also thought to be the gateway or portal to other realms, both spiritual and dimensional. If we had made a left rather than a right turn at The Gate trail junction on our hike earlier that day, we could have possibly entered one. We are just too boring and pragmatic to achieve transcendence on a hike.

Lolo Approaching Headwaters of the Sacramento RiverWe headed next to Mt. Shasta City Park to search for and drink from the headwaters of the Sacramento River. The search was pretty easy – it was well signed out – but the filling of my water bottle was a bit more of a challenge, as I clambered on rocks and barely avoided falling into the headwaters on my hindquarters.

On the way back to the campground we made a stop at the Mt. Shasta Sisson Museum, a small, volunteer operated museum dedicated to preserving the history of Mt. Shasta area. It is on the same grounds as the oldest fish hatchery west of the Mississippi. Admission to the museum is free, but a $1 donation is suggested.

We spent a fun half hour exploring the photographs and exhibits explaining the history of the town and the mountain. Our favorite exhibit was one in which you could sit in a simulated train engine and pretend that you are the conductor – fun for kids of all ages.

Back at Lake Siskiyou Camp Resort, we sipped some wine on the beach overlooking the mountain before retiring back to our campsite.

It had been a very full and fun day.

Hiking to Heart Lake and Kayaking around Castle Lake

Heart LakeThe girl behind the counter at Yaks Café yesterday had told us that her favorite lake in the area was Castle Lake. She said that it was very beautiful and much more secluded and quiet than Lake Siskiyou – and a great place to launch kayaks.

It wasn’t very far from our campground – just a mile on the road back towards town, and then 7 miles south on Castle Lake Road.

This was a two activity stop, the first of which would be a 3-mile round-trip hike to even more secluded Heart Lake.

From the parking area, we followed the trail left along the eastern side of the lake. Fairly quickly, the trail veered away from the shoreline and began climbing up the eastern wall above Castle Lake. As we continued to climb, we occasionally caught views of the lake through the trees.

After hiking a little over a mile and making about a 600-foot elevation gain, we came to a saddle and began looking around for the trail. It certainly was not very clearly marked or heavily traveled. Finally, Herb spotted a faint trail to the right. I was not totally convinced, but it was the only game in town, so we followed it up toward a high ridge. Herb was right. Once we reached the top of the ridge, there it was – tiny but lovely Heart Lake right below -- and it really was shaped like a heart.

Mt. Shasta with Castle LakeWe walked the short distance down the trail to a rocky outcrop that extended into the lake. In fact, it was this protrusion of rock that gave the lake its heart shape. What a romantic place for lunch. I could practically hear the mushy things Herb was going to say to me over our turkey sandwiches.

After lunch, we walked counter-clockwise around the lake and continued west up a rocky trail to a tremendous view of Mt. Shasta with Castle Lake in the foreground below. What a beautiful spot!

The way back was easier to navigate and before long we were back at Castle Lake, where we launched our kayaks at the short, but steep ramp near the parking area.

The lake is stunning – set in a glacial cirque with water as blue as Tahoe’s. Its striking blueness is a result of its pureness and low nitrogen content. UC Davis scientists have been sampling and studying the lake since the 1950s.

Lolo Kayaking Castle LakeWe started paddling along the western shore to the lake’s most prominent feature -- a high back wall of granite rising from the southwestern shore.

The whole trip around the perimeter of the lake was only 1.3 miles, so after returning to the boat launch, we decided to head back out on the lake. This time I had my eye on the second most prominent feature in the lake – a raft at the southern end, perfect for sunbathing. Unfortunately, a couple had beaten us to it and no amount of casually circling nearby triggered them to give it up. Oh well.

What a great paddle though! I was really enjoying all the opportunities for kayaking in some of the most beautiful lakes in California. We had gotten our kayaks out on the water more this trip than all the other trips combined. What a way to explore a beautiful area!

Sundial Bridge in Redding

Sundial Bridge and SunOur drive back to our base camp in Petaluma took us south on I5 past the depressingly low waters of drought-ridden Shasta Lake, and near the town of Redding, where we exited to take a brief side trip to see the famous Sundial Bridge.

This steel, glass, and granite bridge, which was completed in 2004, was designed by the world renowned Spanish architect and engineer Santiago Calatrava. As its name suggests, the bridge is an actual functioning sundial, and one of the largest in the world. However, it is more of a technological marvel and work of art than a replacement for your watch, as its sheer size limits its time keeping abilities. The shadow traces such a large arc that it can only reveal the time between 11 am and 3 pm. Also, in winter the shadow is too far into the nearby arboretum to be seen. When the shadow is visible though, as it was when we were there, you can actually see it move, which it does at the rate of about one foot per minute.

It is definitely worth the stop for anybody passing through Redding.

Description

Mt. Shasta with Lake SiskiyouThe Lake Siskiyou Camp Resort is located just 3 miles west of Mount Shasta City, on the lovely shores of glacier-fed, 435-acre Lake Siskiyou. With fantastic views of snow-covered Mount Shasta from its shores, it is one of the prettiest reservoirs in Northern California.

The 7-mile dirt Lake Siskiyou Trail, which encircles the lake, is popular with walkers, joggers, and mountain bikers. The views of Mount Shasta along the way are awesome.

There is a large 150-site, very popular campground for RVs of any length, with full and partial hookups. There are 225 additional sites for tents. There is also a marina, boat rentals (canoes, kayaks, pedal boats, motorized boats), free boat launching, a fishing dock and fish-cleaning station, boat slips, and a swimming beach.

Lolo in Lake Siskiyou Splash ZoneRecreational opportunities on the lake include:
• swimming
• trout and smallmouth bass fishing
• low-speed boating (boat ramp and boat rentals available)
• hiking the Lake Siskiyou Trail

Travelogue

Vulcan Eye of Lassen PeakWhen we had visited Lassen in 2013, the trail to the top of Lassen Peak was closed, because of a multi-year trail restoration project, which was triggered by the tragic death of a 9-year-old boy in 2009 when a retaining wall supporting the trail gave way, hurtling him down the rocky mountainside.

The National Park Service closed the trail to the peak for 6 years while it reconstructed and stabilized the retaining walls and stone steps along the trail. The trail reopened in the summer of 2015.

Lassen Peak had always been on our list of classic hikes in the west, so when we heard the news about the trail reopening, we added Lassen to our trip itinerary. A phone call to the Manzanita Campground confirmed that we would have no trouble getting one of the first-come-first-served RV sites if we arrived on a weekday.

Herb at Lassen Peak OverlookWe left Camp Richardson bright and early on a Thursday morning and made the 5-hour scenic drive up 395 through Reno and west on 44 through Susanville and then down 89 into the Park.

It was too late to start any big hikes, so we stopped at the Visitor Center / Loomis Museum and watched the movie about the park. The National Park Visitor Centers does a very good job at orienting people to the parks, and I find that the movies are always extremely well done, informative, and a pleasure to watch.

Afterwards we selected one of the first-come-first-serve campsites in the nearby Manzanita Lake Campground, where there is a sandy beach, a place to launch kayaks, and a 1.5-mile trail encircling the lake. For this evening, we chose beach chairs and a bottle of wine on the beach.

Hiking to Lassen Peak

Lolo on Trail between Lassen SummitsThis was the big day – the hike to Lassen Peak and the reason we had returned here.

10,457-foot Lassen is quite a noteworthy geological attraction. Besides being the southernmost active volcano in the Pacific Ring of Fire, a string of 20 volcanoes which stretches 700 miles from southwestern British Columbia, it is the largest plug dome volcano in the world. This type of volcano is formed when the lava is too viscous to flow very far and instead piles up around the vent, creating a big dome

It is also the site of the second most recent eruption in the Cascade Range, which occurred in 1914 to 1917. The explosion spewed rock, gas, and volcanic ash as far away as 200 miles and triggered a mudflow, known as a lahar, which destroyed a 5 square kilometer area, now appropriately named the Devastated Area, which, on a clear day, can seen from the summit.

Helen Lake View from Lassen Peak HikeOn a really clear day, you can even see Mt. Shasta, 100 miles north, from the summit. However, this was the summer of intense wildfires in Northern California, so we were just hoping that our views from the summit wouldn’t be completely obstructed by the smoke. At least it was a lot clearer than yesterday.

We parked in the huge parking lot at the base of the peak, which sits at an elevation of 8,500 feet – almost 2,000 feet below the summit. This is an extremely popular trail, so we were surprised at how empty the parking lot was. Perhaps it was because it was a weekday. Whatever reason, we were thrilled about having the trail pretty much to ourselves.

From the parking lot, we began the ascent up the south face of Lassen. There aren’t many trees along the way, so there is little shade, but great open expansive views. After about a half mile, the switchbacks started and didn’t let up until the top.

Final Scramble to Lassen PeakAfter about 2.4 miles, we came to what I initially thought was the top, but turned out to be a false summit. I hate when that happens. To reach the official summit, we had to hike down into the saddle between the two summits and then scramble up the talus on the rim of a crater. The correct path to the top was not very clear, so we just went where it felt right. It wasn’t that easy and probably explained why many people just satisfied themselves with the first summit.

The brass geological survey marker we found on top confirmed that we had indeed reached the official summit of Lassen Peak at 10,457 feet above sea level. Thankfully we had been acclimating to higher altitudes for the last couple of days or the scramble to the top would have been much harder. Unfortunately, the skies were still quite smoky from the fires, so we weren’t able to see Mt. Shasta, but the views were still quite incredible.

Lolo on Descent from Lassen PeakThe 2.6-mile hike down was much easier aerobically than the way up, but as usual, tougher on the knees. I think we were pretty quick though - an hour and 15 minutes up and 55 minutes down. Much less than the 3-5 hours suggested by the hiking guide books. Well, I guess maybe if you add the time spent on the summit admiring the view, 3 to 5 hours is a pretty good estimate.

On the drive back to the campground, we stopped at the Chaos Crags and Jumbles Scenic Pull-out for our daily cell coverage fix. It was the only place in the park where you could consistently get coverage. Everybody seemed to know about it, and there was always a car or two parked here with the driver yapping on the phone. Providing cell coverage is the one thing (and probably the only thing) that I would change in the national parks.

Chaos Crags was worth a stop even without the coverage. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of boulders strewn over a couple of square miles from an avalanche that occurred 350 years ago from the Chaos Crags lava domes.

Hiking to Mill Creek Falls and Kayaking around Manzanita Lake

Mill Creek FallsI think the second most popular hike in Lassen Volcanic National Park is the hike to Bumpass Hell, Lassen’s largest hydrothermal area, complete with bubbling hot springs, boiling mud pots, and hissing fumaroles. However, we had done that on our last visit, so we looked at online hiking trail sites for something new.

The 4-mile out and back hike to Mill Creek Falls, the highest waterfall in Lassen Park, was just what we were looking for. Not only would this be a new hike for us, but just getting to the trailhead would have us drive along a section of the scenic, windy park road that we had not been on as of yet. The trailhead is located right behind the amphitheater on the east side of the Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center parking lot, near the southwest entrance to the park.

We set off on the trail, which led through the Southwest Campground, set in a lovely red fir forest. After about 0.2 miles, we crossed West Sulphur Creek and began climbing a steep sunny hill totally covered with clumps of huge brown leaves shaped like mule ears. We are not botanists by any means, so at the time all we knew was that they were dead and very interesting to photograph. We later learned that they are woolly mules ear wildflowers that blossom with lovely yellow flowers in July. We had just missed them by a month.

From there the trail continued along East Sulphur Creek, constantly going up and down a series of gullies. At about a mile and a half the trail descended steeply and we got our first glimpse of Mill Creek Falls, with a drop of 75 feet.

Herb at Mill Creek FallsAlthough the official trail description ends at this point, we continued on and crossed a footbridge directly over the falls and gazed below at the water cascading down a narrow canyon. A second footbridge led over a second creek that fed the falls.

The trail continued on to Conard Meadows and Crumbaugh Lake, but this was our turning around point. Herb took off ahead of me to go back to the viewpoint above to photograph the falls. I thought he wanted me as a subject on the footbridge, so I spent about 10 minutes in various poses before joining him up at the viewpoint, only to learn that he didn’t even know I was on the footbridge. Too bad – it would have been a great photo.

The trail was an out and back, so we returned from whence we came, once again up and down the gullies. Although the waterfall was at about the same elevation as the trailhead, our GPS confirmed what I felt – our elevation gain was close to 1,000 feet.

I used to think that elevation gain was the difference between the elevation at the start and the elevation at the highest point of the hike, but it’s not. Elevation gain is the sum of every gain in elevation you make throughout a hike, and elevation losses don’t count.

It was really surprising to me that the elevation gain on the hike up to the top of Lassen Peak yesterday was 2,082 feet, and our Mill Creek Falls hike today was 949 – almost half. That seemed so crazy.

Herb Kayaking Manzanita LakeAfter our hike, there was still plenty of time for another activity, so we launched our kayaks in Manzanita Lake. I was so glad that Herb decided to keep the kayaks on the roof of the Subaru rather than going through the contortions required to put them back on top of the motorhome after each usage. This way it wasn’t a big deal to get them down, and we used them so much more. Already in the past week we had kayaked around Tenaya Lake in Yosemite, Mono Lake, Falling Leaf Lake in South Lake Tahoe, and now Manzanita Lake – more times in one trip than we had used them in the entire two years they had lived in California.

It was only a mile and a half paddle around the lake, but a very rewarding one. While there are no expansive views from the launch area, once we got to the far side of the lake, Lassen Peak and Chaos Crags revealed themselves in all their splendor. It was nice to just lie back, float, and take in the surroundings. I think I was really perfecting this technique of kayaking.

For those without kayaks, there’s a trail around the lake that provides the same spectacular views.

Description

Lolo with Rock on Lassen False SummitLassen Volcanic National Park in northern California contains Lassen Peak, the southernmost volcano in the Cascade Volcanic Arch, which extends for over 700 miles from British Columbia through Washington and Oregon to northern California. The Cascade Volcanoes are part of the Pacific Ring of Fire, the ring of volcanoes and associated mountains around the Pacific Ocean.

10,457 foot Lassen Peak is the largest plug dome volcano in the world. These types of plug or lava domes are formed when the ejected lava is too viscous to flow very far, and instead piles over and around its vent, creating a big dome over the volcano.

Although dormant now, Lassen Peak was the site of the most recent volcanic eruption in northern California. It began in 1914, spewing rock, gas, and hot ash billowing into the atmosphere. In 1915 it blew a cloud of ash almost 6 miles high and triggered a mudflow, known as a lahar, which wiped out a 5 square kilometer area now called the Devastated Area, which can still be seen today. It erupted for seven years before finally settling down in 1921.

Manzanita Lake with LoloThe park is the only place in the world where all four types of volcano can be found: plug dome, shield, composite, and cinder cone. In addition, in Bumpass Hell in the southern part of the park there are bubbling hot springs, boiling mud pots, and fumaroles in six geothermal fields. It is quite a geologically active place.

If you only have a day to visit the park, the best way to see it is to drive the 30-mile Lassen Volcanic National Park Highway, stopping at various highlights along the way. Starting from the northwest entrance, the following are some very worthwhile stops along the way:

• Manzanita Lake – the iconic photo of the park is Lassen Peak reflected in this beautiful lake. It is also a good place to kayak, fish, or hike around its shores.
• Loomis Museum where one can view artifacts and photographs from the park’s 1914-1915 eruption
• Chaos Crags and Jumbles Scenic Pull-out – the site of an avalanche 350 years ago from the Chaos Crags lava domes, which scattered hundreds of thousands of large rocks over a couple of square miles
• Devastated Area – a ½-mile interpretative trail looks through the devastation caused by Lassen’s 1914 eruption
• Summit Lake – the midpoint between the northern and southern entrances, this is a great place to take a dip in Summit Lake or to stroll around it on the loop trail.
• Kings Creek picnic area – lovely spot to stop for lunch where the Kings Creeks flows through a meadow at the foot of Lassen Peak
• Lassen Peak Parking Area and Viewpoint – this is the highest point on the park road at 8,512 feet. From here you can just enjoy the view or, for the more adventurous, hike the strenuous 2 ½ mile to the summit, where you can look into the rim or out over the entire park. (This trail is currently closed for trail maintenance beyond the halfway point)
• Bumpass Hell – a 3 mile roundtrip hike brings you up close to bubbling hot springs, boiling mud pots, hissing steam vents (fumaroles)
• Sulphur Works Thermal Area – located near the southern entrance to the park, this is the most easily accessible hydrothermal area, where paved walks lead past boiling springs, burbling mudpots, and sulphur-emitting steam vents.

There are three campgrounds along the Lassen Volcanic National Park Highway that accommodate RVs:

• Manzanita Lake Campground – located near the northwest entrance to the park and adjacent to Manzanita Lake. The campground offers swimming, fishing, kayaking, and hiking. It is the largest of the Lassen campgrounds with 179 sites, some of which can be reserved. It is open from the end of May until it snows.
• Crags Campground – located five miles south of Manzanita Lake on the main park road. The campground offers easy access to the Lost Creek and Devastated Areas, in addition to Crags and Manzanita Lake. There are 45 RV sites, and operates on a first-come-first-served basis. It is open from mid-June to mid-September.
• Summit Lake Campgrounds - located 12 miles south of Manzanita Lake. The campground is comprised of a North and South section, each with access to the lake. There are 94 sites, some of which can be reserved. Summit Lake North is open from late June through mid-September and Summit Lake South is open from late June through late October.

Travelogue

Secret CoveOur drive from Lee Vining to South Lake Tahoe took us north along one of our favorite roads - US 395, also known as the Eastern Sierra Scenic Byway. However, Google Maps suggests that you turnoff 395 onto 89 in the town of Topaz and go through Monitor Pass to get over the Sierras. We had done this on a previous trip, and swore to never to do it again.

In fact, we now know to avoid any road that starts off with the warning “Kingpins not advised.” Since that time, we purchased a book on Amazon called “Mountain Directory West for Truckers, RV, and Motorhome Drivers.” It’s pretty expensive – I think Herb paid about $30 for it used, but when you consider the dangers it helps you avoid, it is money well spent. The guide tells you where the steep grades are, how long they are, how steep (%) they are, etc. For example, it describes Monitor Pass as having a 7–10% grade for 7 ½ miles. We really don’t like grades steeper than 6%.

So now, we stay on 395 and go into Nevada to the town of Minden and then take 88 back down to 89 after the Pass. It adds a few miles, but saves us from getting a few more gray hairs.

Our destination in South Lake Tahoe was Camp Richardson, a lakeside resort with RV camping, lodging, a full-service marina, and restaurant on the water. It was quite nice and really in the heart of things.

Lake Tahoe WatersAfter driving the motorhome, Herb usually likes to just sit and relax for awhile, while I, on the other hand, am a bit hyperactive and can’t wait to get out and explore. He suggested I go out for a run, knowing that that was his only chance of getting any peace and quiet. Ok, I can take a hint, so I put on my sneakers and set out across the road towards the lake.

I ran along the beach a bit before finding a paved trail that took me into the Tallac Historic Site where I found myself weaving amongst the buildings of what were obviously parts of an old estate. It was really cool and I was anxious to go back and tell Herb all about it. I’m not sure if he was as anxious for my return, however.

After telling him that we definitely had to go back there so he could see it, I looked up Tallac Historic Site on the internet and learned that what I had seen were three private estates from the early 1900s – the Baldwin Estate, the Pope Estate, and Valhalla. Back then, Lake Tahoe was a summer retreat for socially prominent families from the San Francisco Bay area -- sort of a Newport of the West Coast. Today thanks to the Tahoe Heritage Foundation and the U.S. Forest Service, visitors can step back in time and visit these estates, each designed in the “Old Tahoe” style.

For now, however, cocktail hour was approaching, so we threw our beach chairs and a bottle of wine in the car and drove the short distance down to the Camp Richardson beach and marina to watch the sun set over the mountains by Emerald Bay. Very nice. I also took note of the people happily dining al fresco at the beachside Beacon Bar and Grill and added that to my list of things to do while in South Lake Tahoe.

Secret Cove

Herb at Secret CoveIt was a beautiful warm sunny day, so we drove up to Secret Cove, one of a series of secluded, pristine beaches along Highway 28 on the remote Nevada eastern shore of the lake. We had discovered it on our last visit to Tahoe, and it remains one of Herb’s favorite beaches – and that is saying a lot, as he is quite the beach aficionado.

Along this section of the lake, the highway is way above the lake, so we had to hike down a fairly long, steep path to the beach, lugging our beach chairs and cooler. At least this time, we didn’t have our tubes along, so it was a bit more manageable.

This beach really is stunning – sandy, but scattered with boulders, which you can tuck behind to get a bit of privacy, even when it’s crowded. Did I mention this is a clothing optional beach?

The water is so clear and incredibly deep Tahoe blue—a bit chilly as well, but there are plenty of rocks and boulders in the cove to climb up on to dry.

We met a nice couple, just around the next boulder, who we struck up a conversation with. They were from Southern California and loved camping in their little teardrop trailer, especially in remote, secluded places. They had even equipped their teardrop trail with heavy duty tires. Herb’s ears perked up as he likes the idea of being somewhere miles from the next human being, except me, of course.

Lolo at Secret CoveThey told us how they camped at Racetrack Playa in Death Valley National Park – the place where rocks mysteriously move on their own. To get to it you have to drive 25 miles on a dirt, washboard road - high clearance vehicles with heavy duty tires required. No one has actually ever seen the rocks move. The only evidence that they do move is the tracks they leave behind on the mud surface of the playa.

Herb was getting pretty excited about this – I not so much. The thought of driving on a bouncy road for hours to watch rocks not move when I was looking just wasn’t doing it for me – just kidding (kind of). I think it would be cool to do for one night or two the max, but not a whole week like they did.

When we got back at Camp Richardson that evening, we went back down to the beach to watch the sunset. I also asked someone at the marina about kayaking and whether a paddle to Emerald Bay the next day would be feasible. He told us that although not impossible, it was about an 8 or 9 mile round trip where we would most likely encounter strong winds in the afternoon. He recommended that we try nearby 3-mile-long Fallen Leaf Lake instead. I liked the idea. Tahoe seemed so large and intimidating, but this sounded much more intimate.

Kayaking Fallen Leaf Lake, Dining at Beacon Bar and Grill, and Strolling through the Tallac Historic Site

Lolo Kayaking Fallen Leaf LakeThe Camp Richardson marina guy was right. Fallen Leaf Lake was exactly what we were looking for in a kayaking destination. It was only about a mile south of Camp Richardson, there is a great boat launch at the southern end of the lake, it’s beautiful, and its size is just right for a leisurely paddle – 3 miles long by 1 mile wide.

While the Lake Tahoe Basin was formed by the rise and fall of the landscape due to faulting, Fallen Leaf Lake was formed by glaciers. Fortunately, the glacier ran out of steam and stopped just short of what is now Lake Tahoe; otherwise it would have been just another bay in a very large lake.

The land surrounding the lake is privately owned, leased from the U.S. Forest Service, and part of the Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit. Except for a marina and store at the southern end of the lake, there is very little commercial development. As a result, the water quality is extremely good.

Herb at Fallen Leaf LakeThey take their water quality seriously. Before launching the boat, a person from the marina came over and hosed off the bottom of our kayaks to ensure that we weren’t bringing and zebra mussels along for the ride. These invasive mollusks can wreak havoc on the natural food chain in a lake, so it is a precaution that is well worth taking to preserve the pristine waters of this lake.

We circled the lake in a counter-clockwise direction, paddling close to the eastern shore so that we could peek at the beautiful lake homes. The shore was quite heavily forested, and therefore shaded, so several people were sitting out on the very ends of their docks with their morning coffee, catching those first rays of sun. At this elevation, the temperature varies a great deal between sun and shade.

Towards the northern end of the eastern shore, there were no longer any houses, but just forest. At the very northern end of the lake, we pulled our kayaks up on a beach that was accessible either from the water, as we had come, or along a trail from the Fallen Leaf Campground, about 1/3 of a mile away.

After a chilly swim, we continue paddling along the western shore, which was much less developed except for a few smaller homes near the southern end.

As so often happens in the afternoon, the winds picked up, making it difficult to paddle. I hung close to the shore so that I would know that I was at least making some progress. A kayak with a sail on it passed us right by – what a good idea when the wind picks up!

Lolo Kayaking Fallen Leaf Lake ShorelineWe made it back to the launch with no incident, threw the kayaks back up on top of the Subaru, and drove back to Camp Richardson.

There was still plenty of time left in the day, so we switch to sneakers and headed out for a run, this time sticking to the beach rather than turning off into the Tallac Historic Site. We made it as far as Baldwin Beach. Besides it being a beautiful beach, it was the closest place to launch a kayak to get around the promontory into Emerald Bay. Despite all the people I had asked about kayaking to Emerald Bay, nobody had told me about using this as a starting point. This was definitely something to consider for future visits here.

That evening, rather than cook in the motorhome, we went out for dinner at the Beacon Bar and Grill on the beach by Camp Richardson. We sat at a table on the outside patio, where we could watch the paddleboarders meandering around the bay. The food and service were good as well.

After dinner, we strolled through the Tallac Historic Site, listening to the sounds of a classical concert emanating from the Boathouse and sitting on the porches of the historic estates. I can’t believe they let you do this. There was no one else there. It felt like we owned the place. For a brief moment in time, I was a socialite in the early 1900s spending a lovely summer evening on the veranda with my wealthy husband. Then we went back to the RV.

Description

Sandals in Fallen Leaf LakeI am not even going to attempt to give a full description of what Lake Tahoe has to offer, as we only spent a short time on its southern shore.

However, briefly, Lake Tahoe is one of the highest elevation lakes (6,255 feet high) in the U.S., as well as the second deepest (1,645 feet deep) – Crater Lake is the deepest. It is located along the border between California and Nevada. The four shores of the lake are each quite different. The north is quiet and upscale, the west and east are more rugged and less developed, and the south shore is busy and tacky with neon-lit hotels and casinos. The 72-mile drive around the lake is very scenic.

Lake Tahoe is known for its clear blue and green waters and the panorama of mountains that surround it on all sides. It is a year-round destination with swimming, boating, kayaking, and various other kinds of water sports during the summer; hiking, backpacking, and camping all year round; and tremendous skiing and snowboarding in the winter.

Two interesting nearby sites we did enjoy, include:

Tallac Historic Site

The Tallac Historic Site is comprised of three private estates dating back to the early 1900s, which served as summer retreats for three very socially prominent families from the San Francisco Bay area. In an effort to preserve “Old Tahoe,” the U.S. Forest Service acquired 74 acres, which included the three estates and a quarter mile of lakefront between Emerald Bay and Camp Richardson.

Today the remains of the restored estates attract thousands of visitors interested in recapturing this bygone and significant era in Tahoe’s history. Although the architecture of each is unique from its neighbors, each captures some aspect of the “Old Tahoe” style.

A list of activities and tours is available at the Visitor Center and the Baldwin museum.

Fallen Leaf Lake

Fallen Leaf Lake SkyIf the thought of kayaking in a lake as large as Tahoe is a bit intimidating, as it was for me, there is a wonderful alternative just a mile south of Camp Richardson. Fallen Leaf Lake, which was created by glaciers, is approximately 3 miles long and 1 mile wide. If the glacier had continued, Fallen Leaf Lake would have been just another bay in Lake Tahoe.

The land surrounding the lake is privately owned, leased from the U.S. Forest Service, and part of the Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit. Except for a marina and store at the southern end of the lake, there is very little commercial development. As a result, the water quality is extremely good.

Travelogue

Yosemite Fire Glow from Mono Vista RV ParkAs anyone who has attempted to camp in Yosemite knows, it is extremely difficult to reserve one of its highly-coveted campsites. It requires knowing the exact date and time that the reservation window opens for the dates you are interested in and being poised by a computer when the floodgates open. Usually within 5 minutes of the start time all campsites are gone.

Being veterans of the process, Andrew and Celeste were shrewd enough to nab campsites in Tuolumne Meadow and Crane Flat for the four weekends in August. This particular weekend that we were joining them, they had a tent site in Tuolumne, too small to accommodate our motorhome. At first we considered trying to get one of the first-come-first-served sites, but the entire week before, I kept calling the available campsite hotline just to see whether Tuolumne Meadows sites were obtainable. They all seemed to be taken by 8:00 am.

Herb and I decided to play it safe and reserve space at the Mono Vista RV Resort, a commercial campground just outside the eastern entrance of the park that had views of Mono Lake. We still would have preferred being in Yosemite, but at least there were some redeeming features, like electricity, WiFi, cell coverage, and showers. Plus, it was only a half hour drive into the Park to get to Tuolumne Meadows.

The campground was actually in a very nice setting, set against a mountain backdrop looking out over the lake. Our fellow campers were also quite friendly. There was a very cute elderly couple in the site next to ours. When we got to talking to them, Herb shared the fact that he and I met in 3rd grade and knew each other for over 50 years. Well, that didn’t overly impress them as they had just returned from their 60th high school reunion and had known each other for 70 years. Show offs.

They were an inspirational couple – so active and full of life. Not only were they a pleasure to talk to, but they also gave us a great idea as to what to do tomorrow – hike in the 20 Lakes Basin area, one of the few Yosemite area hikes we had not yet done.

Hiking the 20 Lakes Basin Trail

Lolo and Herb at 1 of 20 LakesThe beauty of Yosemite does not stop at its boundaries, as we learned when hiking in the spectacular 20 Lakes Basin area, just outside the eastern boundary of the park in the Hoover Wilderness Area. A very popular route through this region is an 8.4-mile loop hike starting at the south end of 10,087-foot-high Saddlebag Lake.

It was actually quite easy to get to the trailhead from our campground in Lee Vining. We just took 120 West as if we were going into the park, but after passing Ellery Lake at 10 miles we took a right onto a dirt road signed for Saddlebag Lake and continued for 2.7 miles to a designated parking area near the Resort.

The term resort might be a bit of an exaggeration, but there is a very nice Café and General Store with a cozy fireplace, and a place to rent fishing and pontoon boats. There is also a water taxi which goes between the Resort and the far north end of the lake, saving hikers about a mile and a half. The cost of the ferry is $8 one-way or $13 round-trip.

Since we were there to hike, we skipped the water taxi and headed off along the suggested eastern shore of the lake, which although slightly longer than the trail along the western shore, offers more scenic views.

Lakes 1, 2 and 3 of 20 Lakes Basin Trail?Once we reached the ferry dock at the northern end of the lake (at about 2.2 miles) where the lazier hikers were being dropped off, we took a brief side trail to a very photogenic view of blue-green Greenstone Lake with North Peak in the background. Of course we had to stop and ask another couple to take our picture in front of that lovely backdrop.

From there, we chose to do the loop in a clockwise direction, although now I read that most hikers recommend going counterclockwise. The trail gradually began to ascend as we approached tiny Wasco Lake at 10,325 feet.

All in all, this trail did not have the grueling elevation gains we had become so familiar with on our Yosemite hikes. The trail continued on relatively flat terrain to the larger Steelhead Lake with breathtaking views of North Peak and the granite summit of Shepherd Crest.

After passing a small, unnamed lake (I was still counting it though), we continued through a pretty meadow along a talus slope to Shamrock Lake whose shores were ringed by rocky meadows and stunted white-bark pines growing amidst its granite ledges. North Peak and Mount Conness loomed towards the southwest.

Lolo Hiking 20 Lakes Basin Trail - #1At 4.5 miles, we were slightly past our halfway mark and we had already passed 6 lakes. At this point, the trail got a bit sketchy as we descended the headwall to the basin that cradles Shamrock and Steelhead Lakes towards Helen Lake, which would be the northernmost point of our hike before heading back towards Saddlebag Lake. The trail required a bit of rock scrambling on scree-covered slopes and the crossing of a creek to get around the northern end of Helen Lake. We were back at 10,107 feet, about the elevation we had started at.

At the northeast end of Helen Lake, we came to a trail junction. To the left, was the trail towards Lundy Canyon and to the right the continuation of our loop hike back to Saddlebag Lake. Earlier this summer, we had hiked the Lundy Canyon trail from the trailhead on Lundy Canyon Road to the usual turnaround point at the scree-covered canyon walls. We realized now that this was where we would be in a very short distance if we turned left. Perhaps someday I would have the courage to connect the two hikes, but that was for another day.

From the trail junction, we turned right and proceeded up a steep rocky gorge towards Odell Lake, another pretty alpine lake tucked in a rocky bowl and surrounded by steep multi-hued cliffs.

Herb resting on 20 Lakes Basin TrailThen it was on and up through Lundy Pass at 10,345 feet before descending once more to pretty little Hummingbird Lake nestled in a shallow bowl beneath Tioga Crest.

We continued descending to a trail junction near the northern end of Saddlebag Lake. Although we were quite tired, we didn’t even consider taking the ferry back as we wanted to complete the loop as a hike.

The trail along the western shore was nothing like the smooth dirt road we had started out on along the eastern side of the lake. It was very rocky and not exactly what I was looking for at this late point in the hike.

However, we soon were back at the Saddlebag Resort, pleasantly exhausted after what was a really spectacular hike – 8.8 miles, 928 feet of elevation gain, 9 beautiful alpine lakes, and breathtaking views all along the way.

All in all, a very good day.

Kayaking around Tenaya Lake and Rock Climbing at Murphy’s Creek

Tenaya Lake Domes with Lolo KayakingThe kids were arriving today. Andrew and Celeste were taking the day off from work and would be arriving early afternoon, but Tommy, who had just started a new job this week, didn’t want to ask for a day off so early in his employment, so he would not be arriving until late tonight. Cell coverage in the Park is very spotty, so we made a plan ahead of time to meet by Tenaya Lake where Herb and I would spend the day kayaking until their arrival.

Kayaking in this lake was something we had wanted to do on our visit here last August, but a cold front had moved in making it unwise without wetsuits or waterproof clothing. The lake is at 8,150 feet, so even summer days can be quite cold. However, today was a perfectly warm, sunny day.

Tenaya Lake is very pretty, surrounded by classic Yosemite granite peaks and domes. The only downside is its closeness to the road. At least, Andrew would have no trouble finding us in our bright yellow and red kayaks.

We launched from the picnic area and beach on the western end of the lake and paddled counter-clockwise around its shores. The entire trip around was only 2.8 miles, but we spent a good deal of time just floating and photographing the beautiful domes looming over the east end of the lake.

Celeste, Lolo, and Andrew on hike out of Murphy's CreekStill no sign of Andrew and Celeste, so when we got back to the beach, we put the kayaks away and switched to beach chair mode. We knew that relaxing was not going to be part of the itinerary when they arrived, so we took advantage of the last few peaceful moments we had.

It wasn’t long before they arrived, smiling and excited for a great weekend ahead. We sat on the beach for about 15 more minutes, before Andrew suggested we go climbing at a nearby crag called Murphy’s Creek. We didn’t even have to move the car, as the trailhead to get there was right across the road from the parking lot.

We hiked for about a mile and a half through woods before coming to a granite slab, which I assumed correctly was our destination. Although I do climb on occasion, this crag was not for me. Yosemite climbing usually involves crack climbing, where you have to jam your hands and feet into a vertical crack to work your way up the rock, much different from the type of climbing Herb and I are used to.

Andrew and Celeste worked on a 5.10d off-width, which involved them cramming and ooching their entire bodies into a wide crack and sort of shimmying their way up the rock. It looked extremely unpleasant. Herb must have agreed, because he decided to sit this one out.

After that, the three of them worked on a very difficult 5.11b crack, which looked even more horrible.

Herb climbing cracks at Murphy's CreekFinally, everyone decided they had tortured themselves enough, we hiked back out with the intention of having celebratory beers in Tuolumne Meadows. A refreshing beer after climbing has become a recent tradition of ours – gives us something to look forward to after hanging from a cliff.

That’s when I broke it to Andrew that I had forgotten to pack beers in the cooler, which was very unlike me. Oops! Fortunately, there is a small grocery store near the Tuolumne Meadows campground where we were able to rectify my oversight.

Refreshments in hand, we found a spot along the path through the meadow to sit and enjoy the unique beauty of this sub-alpine meadow. At an altitude of 8,600 feet, it is quite a bit cooler than the Valley, and also much less crowded. Even the rock formations are different. Rather than 3,000-foot massive granite monoliths, Tuolumne is studded with dozens of more manageably-sized domes, formed by the exfoliation of porphyritic granite.

Andrew and Celeste had come to love this part of Yosemite during their previous weekends here. That’s why I felt very honored that they were willing to give up their highly-coveted and difficult to obtain campsite in the park to come down to Mono Lake to stay in the campground where we were. They said that being together was more important. I thought that was pretty sweet.

Back at the Mono Vista RV Resort, we had a pretty long wait before Tommy’s arrival. In fact, so long that I was the only one that stayed up to greet him. He was coming from San Francisco on his motorcycle after work, so as a Mom I worried about him coming through those steep, windy roads through the park in the dark. No matter how old he gets or how competent he is, I am still his mother. Finally, around 11:30, I heard a motorcycle pull into the campground. To my ears, there could not have been a nicer sound.

Hiking to Lower Cathedral Lake and Rock Climbing by Olmsted Canyon

Happy Hikers on Route to Lower Cathedral LakeMost of our Yosemite trips have been to the Valley, so the Tuolumne Meadows area still has so many new places for us to explore and so many trails we haven’t been on.

We decided to start the day off with a hike to Lower Cathedral Lake and then climb in the afternoon. The trailhead for the hike was located right along the Tioga Pass Road about a half mile west of the visitor center. Parking is allowed along the shoulder of the road, so we found a spot just a quarter mile or so beyond the trailhead.

This hike is part of the iconic John Muir Trail, which extends for over 200 miles from Yosemite Valley to Mount Whitney. We, however, would be only be doing about 4 miles (each way) of it today. Wow! That sounds so wimpy.

This hike is also very popular with backpackers. Wilderness permits are required for overnight backcountry camping in the park, but this was the first time I saw it so strictly monitored. There was a ranger along a trail asking people with large packs that obviously had overnight gear to see their permits.

The Elusive Cathedral PeakIn addition to cameras and lunch, Andrew, Tommy, and Celeste had loaded their packs with climbing gear, just in case they decided to climb Cathedral Peak. Fully loaded, we crossed the road, found the trailhead, and began what was pretty much a continuous ascent through a lovely lodgepole pine forest. Good thing Herb and I had already been here a few days to acclimate to the higher elevation, as the trail started at 8,500 feet and only went up from there. We hoped that between the heavier loads they were carrying and their lack of acclimation to the altitude, they would be handicapped enough for us to keep up with them.

Eventually we left the forest behind and were treated to our first view of 10,911-foot high Cathedral Peak, one of Yosemite’s iconic granite pinnacles, and the rock formation that Andrew, Tommy, and Celeste were thinking of climbing. It seemed so very far away.

We decided we would hike to Lower Cathedral Lake first and then discuss options for climbing afterwards. So we continued on the John Muir trail until we came to the spur trail for the lake. We were now at the 3.2 mile point of our hike and had made about a 1,000 foot elevation gain. We took a right and walked about another half mile along a stream through a beautiful meadow to the granite shores of pristine Lower Cathedral Lake, set like a jewel in a glacial cirque.

Hikers at Lower Cathedral LakeWell this seemed as good a place as any for lunch and a break from a fairly strenuous hike. The views were breathtaking – nearby Polly Dome and Tenaya Peak providing a picturesque backdrop to the lake, and Cathedral Peak looming over our shoulders from whence we came.

Tommy suggested a refreshing swim, but we ignored him. So he went it alone. Let’s just say it was very brief and literally breathtaking.

After lunch and much photographing of this beautiful spot, we retraced our steps through the meadow back to the junction with the John Muir Trail. This is when much deliberation began as to whether or not to try to climb Cathedral Peak. I knew my vote. I was already tired and the thought of what was required just to get to the base of this formation was not very appealing. The approach alone would take over an hour. If we did this, we would be hiking out in the dark. However, I hate to be a pooper, so I kept my mouth shut.

They know me too well, however, and sensed my apprehension. I think they too had some doubts as to whether we had enough time to do this. Finally, we agreed to put this climb off for another day when we got an earlier start and went directly there. Nobody was disappointed though, because the hike alone had been well worth it.

Yosemite Fire Clouds from Tuolomne MeadowsWe hiked the 3.2 miles back down to the trailhead. Back at the car, the boys consulted the climbing guide to select another area to climb where the approach wouldn’t be too long, as it was already mid-afternoon. They settled on Olmsted Canyon, so we headed west on Tioga Pass Road towards Olmsted Point.

For anyone driving the Tioga Pass Road, stopping at Olmsted Point is a must. The views of Tenaya Canyon and the northern side of Half Dome will take your breath away. However, we didn’t have much climbing time left in the day and we had been to this viewpoint several times in the past, so we continued on a short distance to the dirt turnout near the mouth of the canyon, which would give us access to the Olmsted Canyon climbing area.

The boys selected a 5.10d climb called Lord Caffeine, which was another one of Yosemite’s classic -- and according to Herb horrible-- crack climbs. Rather than leading what looked like a very difficult climb, the boys took the safer route and hiked around to set up a top rope. After spending a few hours on this climb, I think they came to agree with Herb’s assessment. Celeste managed to get about a third of the way up, Andrew got a little further, but said he wanted to vomit, and Tommy actually got it. Herb didn’t want anything to do with it. Funny how despite all the grunts and groans during the climb, each of them said afterwards, “That was fun!”

Boys and Celeste on "Lord Caffeine"We had definitely earned our post-hike/climbing celebratory beers, so we headed back to beautiful Tenaya Lake to enjoy the sunset. This time I had not forgotten to pack beers in the cooler. The views were lovely, the company was the best, and the cold beers were very refreshing.

That evening when we drove out of the park, the ranger at the gate told us that once we left we wouldn’t be able to come back. Since we were camping by Mono Lake, we didn’t ask why, but when we saw the flames off to our right, we figured it out. Fires throughout northern California had been an issue all summer, but this one was a little too close for comfort.

When we got back to the motorhome, we saw that our counters were coated with soot from the fire, which had gotten through our open vents. It smelled so strongly, that the kids decided to abandon their tents and spend the night inside the motorhome where we all felt more protected. Thankfully, they had decided to camp with us rather than stay in Tuolumne Meadows, or we would have been totally cut off from each other.

We inquired and found out that the fires were about 5 miles away at Walker Lake, and as of yet, there was no plan to evacuate the Lee Vining area. This was getting a bit scary though.

Saying Goodbye to Kids and Kayaking Mono Lake

Camping at Mono Vista RV ParkThe next morning we were at a loss as to what to do. The skies were still very smoky and Tioga Pass Road was closed, meaning that not only could we not go into the park to recreate, but the kids had to find another, much longer, route back to San Francisco. Spirits were pretty low.

We put the decision off for now and went to have breakfast at Whoa Nellie Deli, the only fine restaurant I have ever been to that is in a Mobil gas station. Don’t let the façade fool you. This place is really great, with an interesting menu and excellent food. The experience helped raise spirits quite a bit.

We discussed the possibility of climbing somewhere outside the park, like Mammoth Lakes, but that would mean they would get back to San Francisco very late. Andrew and Celeste decided to start heading back via either Route 50 near South Lake Tahoe or Sonora Pass. Either way would add a good 2 hours from what their drive would have been if they could have driven through the Park.

Lolo and Tom Kayaking Mono LakeTommy was in no particular hurry to get back to the city, so he decided to come with us to launch our kayaks in the lake. It really was very hot out, so we hoped that getting out on the water would cool us off.

Mono Lake is definitely not your typical lake. Besides being over a million years old, and probably the oldest continuously existing lake in North America, it is 2 ½ times saltier than the ocean and 80 times more alkaline. The other unique feature of this lake are its mystical “tufa castles” formed when carbonates in the water combined with calcium from freshwater springs feeding into the lake. As lake levels dropped, these extraordinary-looking knobs, spires, and minarets became exposed. Most of the towers visible in the lake are from 200 to 900 years old and rise as high as 30 feet above the water. Our goal was to paddle amongst the tufas.

The largest concentration of them can be found along the southern shore of the lake at the South Tufa State Reserve, but you can’t launch a kayak from there. The best place to launch is from Navy Beach, which is just ½ mile east of the South Tufa area by water, but a fairly longer drive along a bumpy dirt road to the launch parking lot. From there, we carried our kayaks and gear about 30 yards down to the water.

We only had two kayaks, so Herb suggested that Tommy and I go out, while he took a ride on Tommy’s Kawasaki KLR650 dual sport bike. He had been dying to get his hands on that all weekend. While he rode off into the distance down 120 East, Tommy and I launched the kayaks and paddled amongst the tufas. Although the tufa towers are very visible and close to the shoreline, it was much more fun weaving our way amongst them.

Lolo Kayaking Mono LakeAfter much photogging, we paddled back to Navy Beach where a happy Herb was waiting for us. He had really enjoyed riding Tommy’s bike, hopefully not enough to want him to add one to our already robust arsenal of toys.

Tommy had a long ride ahead of him, especially with the detour around Yosemite, so he said his goodbyes and headed north on 395 with the intention of taking the windy road through Sonora Pass.

We had the rest of the day to ourselves, so we took the kayaks back out and paddled towards the Paoha Island in the center of the lake. Funny how distances are so deceptive on the water. The island was just a little over 3 miles from Navy Beach, but I could swear that it kept moving further and further away the more I paddled. At least the lake was calm, at least for now. We would have to keep an eye out for changing conditions because the winds usually pick up in the afternoon making kayaking extremely difficult.

Yosemite Fires Smoke view from Paoha IslandHerb’s kayak is much longer than mine, and therefore much faster – or at least that’s the excuse I use – so before long, he was just a tiny yellow dot in the distance. Rather than get annoyed at being left behind, I decided to enjoy the solitude and sniff the roses. Sometimes I just stopped paddling, leaned back, and gazed at the clouds and mountains in the distance. Hopefully, the massive billows of smoke in the mountains didn’t mean that the fires were getting closer. I started worrying about Lee Vining being evacuated and not being able to get back to our motorhome. Herb says I worry too much, but he wasn’t here right now so I could worry all I wanted.

Eventually, I paddled up onto the beach where Herb had landed about a half hour ago. We had been to this island on our visit earlier this summer, so I wasn’t as surprised this time when I stepped onto the shore and my feet broke through its crunchy, white moon-like surface, which, like the tufas, was primarily composed of calcium carbonate.

This island is very young in geological years, formed just 350 years ago when a volcanic eruption pushed sediments from the lake bottom and volcanic material 290 feet above the lake surface.

It was really hot and there was absolutely no shade to be found on the island. Herb, who I think is part lizard, loved it. After about an hour of sweating and swatting brine flies, I found myself getting cranky and anxious to get back out on the water where it was significantly cooler. Plus, those fires in the not so far distance were making me nervous.

Mono Lake Sky with Tiny Lolo KayakingI think Herb was disappointed that I wanted to leave so soon, but I just couldn’t take the heat. Since he is a faster kayaker than me, I suggested he stay longer and just catch up to me when he was ready to leave.

He gave me the GPS so that I could more easily track a straight line to Navy Beach, rather than zigzagging my way across the lake, turning a 3 mile paddle into a 5 mile one. Plus, it told me my progress in tenths of a mile, which I found very rewarding.

I resumed my routine – paddle for awhile, rest and gaze at clouds and mountains, worry about fires, paddle again, gaze and worry again, and so on. Thanks to my trusty GPS, I arrived back at Navy Beach just about the same time Herb did.

We loaded the kayaks on the car and headed back to Mono Vista RV Park. The smoke was still pretty bad, and Tioga Pass Road was still closed, but 395 and the campground were still open. I’m not sure what we would have done if they weren’t.

Description

Yosemite – Tuolumne Meadows

Pond on Hike Out from Olmsted CanyonIn my past Yosemite trip stop descriptions, I have focused on Yosemite Valley. However, this time our foray into Yosemite was limited to beautiful Tuolumne Meadows along the Tioga Pass Road in the northern part of the park.

Tuolumne Meadows is very different from Yosemite Valley. At an altitude of 8,600 feet, it is high country and therefore, quite a bit cooler and wetter. As its name implies, Tuolumne is a beautiful sub-alpine meadow along the Tuolumne River, surrounded by rugged snow-covered mountain peaks and glacially-carved granite domes. The rock is porphyritic granite, which has a tendency for exfoliation, resulting in the distinctive dome shapes found here.

Herb beaching on Tenaya LakeHiking and rock climbing are extremely popular in this section of the park and tend to be much less crowded than the Valley. In contrast to the big walls in the Valley, the rock climbing routes on the major domes in the Meadow are shorter.

There are very few services in Tuolumne and the Tioga Pass Road is usually only open from Memorial Day through late October / early November, depending on the snowfall. During the summer (mid-June to mid-September), camping is available at Tuolumne Meadows Campground. It is extremely popular, so reservations are strongly recommended. However, there are also many sites saved as first-come-first-served. There is also a small grocery store, grill, post office, and gas station.

Mono Lake

Mono Lake is located just off Highway 395 near the town of Lee Vining, California, 13 miles east of Yosemite National Park. Mono Lake is extremely unique. First of all, at over 1 million years of age, it is one of the oldest continuously existing lakes in the continent. Secondly, it is about 2 ½ times as salty as the sea and about 80 times as alkaline. This is because Sierra streams flow into Mono Lake bringing trace amounts of salts and minerals, but the lake has no outlet other than evaporation. As a result, the concentration levels of salts and minerals keeps growing each year. Thirdly, and the main reason Mono Lake is so popular, are the hundreds of spectacular “tufa towers” that rise from the lake. These intriguing calcium-carbonate sculptures were formed beneath the water when carbonates in the water combined with calcium from freshwater springs feeding into the lake. As lake levels dropped, these extraordinary-looking knobs, spires, and minarets became exposed. Most of the towers visible in the lake are from 200 to 900 years old and rise as high as 30 feet above the water.

A good place to start your visit is at the Mono Basin Scenic Area Visitor Center, located just off Highway 395, north of Lee Vining, where you will find exhibits about both the natural and human history of the Mono Basin.

One of the best places to view the tufas is at the Mono Lake Tufa State Reserve along the southern shoreline of the lake. The trailhead for the south tufa castles and Navy Beach is at the edge of the parking lot. During the summer, rangers lead walking tours 3 times a day (10am, 1pm, and 6pm), but if your not lucky enough to catch one of these, there are plenty of informative signboards along the trail. A short walk along the mile-long trail brings you to the strange and fanciful tufa castles at Navy Beach. A swim in the buoyant waters of Mono Lake is a memorable experience, as long as you are willing to step through the millions of harmless alkali flies that line the water’s edge. It’s fun to watch what at first looks like black sand part before you.

Surrounded by volcanic hills, Mono Lake is also a geologist's paradise. The two major islands in the lake are actually volcanic domes. The large black island, which the Kuzedika Indians named Negit, meaning “blue-winged goose,” erupted about 1700 years ago. The white island, which the Native Americans named Paoha, meaning “spirits of the mist,” erupted 250 years ago.

Bird watching and photography are other popular activities at Mono Lake.

Travelogue

Hopefully, our house in New Jersey would sell in our absence, and this would be the last time we had to fly to get to our motorhome in Petaluma. We really were getting anxious to start our new lives in Sonoma County, but I was on vacation now and I didn’t want to think about realtors and potential buyers walking through our home.

Since we were leaving for Yosemite in two days to meet up with the boys and Celeste, we quickly prepped the motorhome, food shopped, and then headed down to San Francisco for a quick visit.

Tommy had just moved to San Francisco from Seattle about two weeks ago, so we were anxious to see his new apartment and how he was settling in. He was still in sticker shock at the price of apartment rentals in San Francisco. Seattle wasn’t exactly a bargain, but San Francisco rentals were getting ridiculous.

I must say that the thought of the boys living within one mile of each other again gave me a warm and fuzzy. Plus it made visiting them so much easier.

We went to dinner at one of Andrew and Celeste’s new discoveries – Café Europa, a Central/Eastern European restaurant in their Inner Richmond neighborhood. They love scouting out new restaurants and thought that Herb, who loves German food – bratwurst in particular -- would find this a close facsimile to the motherland.

The atmosphere was pleasant and we were given a large table in the back room by ourselves. The waiter was very friendly, and as he brought us our beers, he joked about not spilling them, just as he dropped an entire mug on my lap. My jeans were totally soaked, but he was so embarrassed and apologetic that I played down my discomfort. I didn’t want him feeling any worse than he already did.

Other than feeling that I had fallen in a brewery kettle, the food was terrific and the still remorseful waiter gave us lots of freebie side dishes to make up for his faux pas.

I really was saturated though, and I needed these jeans for Yosemite, so afterwards we went back to Andrew and Celeste’s apartment and threw them in the laundry. Once dry again, we said our goodbyes and headed back to Petaluma, happy that we would see each other again in just a few days.

Description

The Petaluma KOA is an award winning camping resort located within an hour’s drive of San Francisco, Napa and Sonoma Valley Wineries, giant redwoods, and Sonoma County and California Coastal Beaches. It is considered to be the RV resort in the San Francisco Bay area.

On its 70 acres, there are 312 spacious RV sites, 32 camping cabins, and 10 Wine Country lodges.

Other amenities include:
• Guided tours of San Francisco (from May through October)
• Huge heated pool and spa
• Inflatable waterslide
• Rock climbing wall
• Huge playground
• Petting zoo
• Karaoke
• Hayrides and live weekend entertainment

The campground is open all year.

Travelogue

Home Sweet RV at Petaluma KOAWell, this was it. Once I made to Petaluma a long anticipated bucket list item would be checked off the list. My first, and most assuredly last cross-country motorcycle trip would be coming to a conclusion.

It was with a bit of anxious anticipation that I checked into the Petaluma KOA for a look at the trusty Lazy Daze that had spent almost a year out west in storage. After almost a year in storage, I was quite pleased when she started right up, and with squeaky brakes let me take to the campsite where I would be camping a few days getting the rig ready before I could take the Subaru Forester, (which also had been stored at the KOA for almost a year), down to the city.

As anticipated, there was a lot of little items that needed to be maintained before I could go and pick up Lolo. Lolo had been spending some "quality time" at Andrew's apartment and I would bring her back to the KOA for the final leg of both our first solo vacations.

I went down to the city and joined Lolo and she amazed me with her new found knowledge of the local neighborhoods. She also gave me a museum tour of both the de Young Museum and the Legion of Honor. It was good to get back to some culture after spending 3 weeks crossing the mid-west.

We closed out the day dining with Andrew and Celeste at the Mandalay Burmese Cuisine and drove back to Petaluma to sleep in the motorhome.

I'm not sure if I had adequately provisioned the rig for her arrival though. As she said in her narrative, the rig was a bit disorganized and that "there were only 6 items in the refrigerator, and each of them was a beer."

We spent our first night together in 3 weeks and had a better appreciation of the benefits of married life.

We then continued the adventure with a trip in the Lazy Daze to the Eastern Sierra, and Death Valley, but I will let Lolo pick up that part of the narrative at San Francisco

Travelogue

Photo Break on June Lake LoopAt this point it seemed to me that this trip might finally be coming to a close. Once over the Sierra, it would be back into the agricultural central valley, and then into the major populations centers of the coast. I began to think about dragging my feet a bit to see if I could make this go on just a little bit more.

But first, there was another day of riding, through some of the most spectacular scenery on the west. First highlight was continuing around the picturesque June Lake Loop. It is actually a loop from 395 that people take just to enjoy the views of many picturesque lakes and mountains.

Next up, was the ascent up route 120 to the highest elevation point of the trip, 9951' As I carved the bike up 120 towards Yosemite's Tioga pass, I could almost not believe my good fortune. While the pass was open, and provided the only access to the park from east of the Sierra, it still had a lot of snow piled up on the side of the road. Fortunately, the Park had done a great job plowing and I had a perfect patch of mostly dry asphalt to plant my tires. The views of the canyons, cliffs, mountains, and lakes that drifted by my helmet were not unfamiliar to me. I had seen these very same sights several times before. However, then they were from behind the wheel of a 7 ton motorhome.

View out the TentThe experience of driving a motorhome verses that of a motorcycle could not be more dissimilar. The weight and width of the motorhome is always a concern both ascending and descending the narrow switch backs into the Valley. Conversely, the bike becomes weightless between my legs, and the bike has both power and brakes to easily traverse the steepest and narrowest terrain. I was a state of bliss that could only be achieved by watching the incredible vistas of Yosemite pass by my visor unencumbered by the steel shell of a car/motorhome.

Every sensation is amplified. The smell of the pine trees, the temperature changes as you descend into a valley or out into the sun, the snow melt and gravel on a decreasing radius turn, all serve to restrain the focus upon the present. No concerns about the future challenges that would await me were able to penetrate my helmet and mind.

As I approached Crane Flat, the spell was broken, and I began the exit from Yosemite's magic to enter the flats of California's agricultural central valley.

Making Breakfast in the TentBut the trip wouldn't be over yet. I had planned a few days of rest and relaxation in the sun at a resort outside of Sacramento. With directions from the phone, it wasn't long before I had arrived.

I found a suitable location for my tent. Right on the shore of a lake that would have a perfect view of the sunset. I made my dinner, had an beer or two or three, and fell fast asleep to the croaking of frogs.

In the morning, I knew that I should have some physical exercise. Riding the bike cross-country is not without effort, but it doesn't provide any kind of aerobic exercise like the 3.5 mile trail run that I did that morning.

A morning of lounging and reading in the sun soon turned into a mind race list of issues that would have to be addressed when I was finally reunited with both the Lazy Daze and Subaru Forester that we had left in storage.

A reunion with my spouse was also on the list of highly anticipated items. While traveling alone on the motorcycle the daily routine left little time for loneliness. That, and the fact that I know Lolo wouldn't have been able to endure so many hours as a passive passenger, made it easier to be a solo traveler. That too would soon come to an end.

Travelogue

Storm Clouds in Furnace CreekThe ride out of the Death Valley on 190 into the town of Lone Pine, is one that I had done several times in the past. It is an amazing drive/ride over the mountain ranges, past Panamint Springs, with elevation change from sea level to over 5000'. I tried not to think of the time that the rusted brake lines in the motorhome burst and left me stranded without brakes during our trip in 2007 Lone Pine.

With 7 tons and motorhome, laden with wife and children, the steep gradients and descents are a high stress event. You are constantly judging when to downshift to spare the brakes from overheating, and how to take turns at a speed that allows safe passage for the vehicle and passengers contained within.

In contrast, riding the motorcycle is a sublime event. The lighter weight, and two wheels let you descend and ascend the steepest grades with impunity, and you have a much greater sense of the environment you are cruising through. Your sense of smell is stimulated by the aroma of the landscape, and changes in temperature are felt with a much greater immediacy then when traveling in a "cage", (motorcyclist talk for a car). The view is unobstructed and there is a free feeling of flowing as one through the environment.

ST-1100 with Snow Capped SierraWhen I got to Lone Pine, I tried unsuccessfully to visit the Alabama Hills. Not sure if I didn't have coverage, or whether I really didn't want to chance the bike on the dirt roads, but by reviewing my GPX track I can see that I wandered down a road that didn't have any direct access whatsoever. Interested readers can learn more from our 2015 trip to the Eastern Sierra.

I continued north on 395 with the snow capped Sierra as my constant companion.

After 120 miles I came to the Manzanar National Historic Site. This was the site of the Japanese American citizens internment during World War II. I drove the bike along the tour road through the camp, and visited the exhibits. It was very moving and disturbing to witness first hand this terrible chapter in the nations past.

Manzanar Memorial ObeliskAt the far end of the loop, against the backdrop of Mount Whitney, stood the Manzanar Memorial Obelisk. I had seen Ansel Adams photo of this monument and I wanted to visit it myself. The view did not disappoint, and I tried to emulate Adams by capturing a similar photograph.

Back on 395 I continued north where I am embarrassed to say that I had another of my McDonalds big breakfasts in Bishop, CA. My oldest son, Andrew, has since moved to Bishop and I now know of a dozen superior dining establishments, but at the time the familiarity of the Golden Arches trumped the other alternatives.

Calorically fueled, I continue up 395 climbing from 5000' to over 8000'. The temperatures dropped considerably, and I turned up the heat on the electric jacket that I wore through much of the trip. Even though my motorcycle is fully fared, and the windshield diverts most of the wind from my body, there is still a considerable cooling effect from the breeze at 75 mph. So much so that even at 70 degrees in the sun, you will slowly become cold and drained of energy without a little support in the form of an electric heated jacket.

June Lake Villager PorchThe cooler temperature helped clinch my decision for the nights lodging. Rather than to attempt to camp out in a National Forest, or BLM land, I would try to find lodging on the June Lake Loop. This had been described to me as a very worthwhile scenic detour, and one that should have able lodging as well.

It was still early season, but the June Lake Villager Motel was open, and had a room.

While checking in, the receptionist, (a women about my age), noted my motorcycle in the parking lot. I thought I might be impressing her by tales of cross-county travel on a 1100cc Honda motorcycle. She listened, and then told me she had recently ridden herself from upper Michigan on a 250cc Yamaha. My testicles shrank a few sizes, and she led me to my room.

The room porch faced west, so I attempted to repair my ego with a beer and watched the sun set.

Travelogue

Herb with Bike in Red Rock CanyonSpirits were high as I backtracked the bike to the start of the loop through the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. In previous visits we had usually just parked at pullout for a climbing destination, and then hiked in. Leaving the park was usually at the end of a long day so we never really had the time to slowly travel the loop and enjoy the views from the road.

I stopped at a parking area and started to photograph the bike with the rocks in the background. Someone else noticed my Jersey Plates, and offered to take a photo for me so I wouldn't have to generate another awkward selfie. I thanked him, and continued my ride up the backside of Death Valley on 160.

Szukalski’s "Last Supper"I soon arrived at Pahrump, and more specifically a McDonalds for their hearty full breakfast of eggs, sausage, muffins, pancake, and coffee. It seemed right at the time to get a high calorie breakfast so that I could extend my riding time through the afternoon.

As I was considering my possible excess of calories, I noticed a thin muscular guy carrying two of my breakfasts to his own table. When saw his cycling shorts, and the bike outside I realized that the caloric requirements for cycling far exceeded those of riding a motorcycle. I would have to try to get back into a regular schedule of exercise once this trip was over.

Lady Desert: The Venus of NevadaI continued my ride up through the town of Beatty, and then down to the Ghost Town of Rhyolite and the Goldwell Open Air Museum. I had seen images of Szukalski’s "Last Supper" and wanted to see it in it's original setting.

The museum did not disappoint. I had the entire grounds pretty much to myself, and was able to wander around and photograph the various sculptures in their natural setting against a sky with darkening clouds. I enjoyed it so much, that I repeated the trip 3 weeks later with Lolo in Rhyolite, NV.

A short ride up the road, and the Ghost Town of Rhyolite appeared. I ran around trying to capture the abandoned buildings in the shifting light, and then headed out on 374, and then 190 to enter Death Valley.

Honda ST1100 in RhyoliteI had been anticipating the ride down into Death Valley since the start of the trip in NJ. I was surrounded by colorful cliffs as I dropped down a mile in elevation along a near perfectly smooth 2 lane deserted highway. Landmarks that I had visited with Lorry and the Boys whizzed by with new found appreciation when viewed from the perspective of two wheeled travel.

The air temperature rose rapidly with the descent and I adjusted the vents on the jacket to maintain comfort at 55 mph. I felt that I had truly ridden to the West, and was feeling somewhat accomplished, and maybe a bit smug with myself.

Motorcycle Camping in Furnace Creek DesertIt was late-afternoon when I finally pitched my tent in the Furnace Creek Campground, and situated my Kermit chair in a position that would allow for a good view of the oncoming clouds and eventual sunset. I had purchased some beer in Pahrump, so I thought that the best course of action would be to consume them while they still were a bit cool.

At dusk, dinner was prepared and I retired to the quiet of the desert breeze in the bushes surrounding my site.

Tomorrow held the promise of another "world class" motorcycle ride. West out of Death Valley, and then up the iconic highway 395, tracing the spine of the eastern sierra. I fell deeply asleep, with dreams of 2 wheeled ecstasy.