Travelogue

Sea Ranch ChapelAfter leaving Salt Point State Park, we continued on California 1 towards St. Orres, where we would spend the night.

But first, a stop at a hidden gem that we found in Atlas Obscura, which is a great source for unusual, quirky, mysterious, etc., places all around the world. With all the big world out there, Atlas Obscura chose to include the Sea Ranch Chapel, a tiny non-denominational sanctuary for prayer, meditation, and spiritual renewal.

It’s easy to miss, so keep your eye out for the small parking lot on the east side of the road as you approach mile marker 55.5.

It’s open to the public from sunrise to sunset every day of the year, except during private events.

Doors of the Sea Ranch ChapelThe chapel, which was completed in 1985, as well as the beautiful grounds surrounding it were the gifts of Sea Ranch residents, Robert and Betty Buffum, in memory of Kirk Ditzler, a navy aviator and artist.

In fact, it was Ditzler’s drawings that inspired architect James T. Hubbell’s design of this amazing structure. Hubbell also designed and crafted the windows, chandelier, doors, fountain, mosaics, and other elements in the chapel.

Interior of Sea Ranch ChapelHubbel is known for his ability to blend art, architecture, and nature in his work, and he has certainly succeeded here. The chapel was modeled on the form of a murex shell, but to me it looked more like a conquistador’s helmet or a fairy tale cottage.

The chapel was constructed by local carpenters using local materials - redwood, cedar, and local stone.

We entered the chapel through beautiful teak doors with stained glass cutouts. The interior was so peaceful and serene, with hand-carved redwood benches to sit down on and pray, contemplate, or simply just enjoy the beauty that surrounded us.

There were bright-colored stained glass windows, a white plaster sculptured ceiling embedded with sea shells and sea urchins, a chandelier, and many other artistic accents.

Thank you Atlas Obscura for leading us to this amazing hidden gem.

Travelogue

Salt Point State ParkAs I mentioned in the Trip Overview, we have been fortunate enough to have seen much of the incredibly beautiful California coast, but our all-time favorite spot of all is Salt Point State Park, just 100 miles north of San Francisco.

The park covers 6,000 acres along the Northern California coast, with 6 miles of rough rocky coastline. And what a unique coastline it is!!

Salt Point State ParkIt’s only an hour and a half drive from our home, but most of that drive is extremely winding and twisty, so it was good to take a break and stretch our legs.

Our favorite place to hike in Salt Point State Park is the 3-mile out and back trail from Gerstle Cove to Stump Beach. It’s probably one of the most unique and dramatic sections of the California coast, and that is saying a lot.

Tafoni Salt Point State ParkWhat this beach is most well known for, and the reason we love to come here over and over again, is that it is one of the few places on the coast that has tafoni - uniquely textured sandstone with holes and honeycomb-like structures - sort of like Swiss cheese. The other place we have seen these intriguing rocks is Pescadero State Beach, about a half hour south of Half Moon Bay.

Salt Point State ParkThere are several theories as to how these amazing rocks were formed, but the most common one is salt weathering. According to this theory, saltwater collects on the surface of the permeable sandstone from the nearby waves and mist.

As the saltwater evaporates, the salt it leaves behind works its way into the rock pores, where it crystallizes and pushes the pores open further. Wind, rain, and tidal water also contribute to their weathering.

Many of the rocks have weird shapes that we have come to recognize each time we visit. Many of them look like heads standing on pedestals. There is even a set of eyes set in the stone. Oh, and of course there is our old friend, the pig.

The Eyes of Salt PointAt one point, I came across a pile of the park’s namesake “salt" in a depression of rock. The name of this park comes from these salt crystals that have formed over millions of years in the crevices and nooks and crannies of this rocky coastline.

The native Kashaya Pomo collected salt from this area for many years. They used abalone chisels to scrape the salt off the rocks.

"Salt" Point State ParkSalt was not the only resource they found at Salt Point. Shellfish, including abalone, were gathered along the coastline, and seaweed was collected and dried.

The Eyes of Salt PointAn estimated 1,500 Kashia people inhabited this area along the Sonoma Coast until the arrival of Russian American Company settlers in the 19th century. The Russians did not really make use of the scarce quantity of salt found along the shoreline, but purchased it from the Spanish instead. However, salt remains an important enough part of its history to include it in its name.

The "Piggy"; of Salt PointIn the 1850s a San Francisco company quarried the sandstone from this park to create the streets and buildings in the fast-growing city of San Francisco.

Today, Salt Point’s major resource is its stunning beauty, which we very much enjoyed along our stroll along its coastline.

It would have been nice to spend the night here because the rocky formations light up in beautiful colors during the golden hour, but we had reservations to spend the night at St. Orres. More on that later.

We will have to come back soon and camp at Gerstle Cove so we can enjoy this beautiful place in both evening and morning light.

Travelogue

Blue LagoonWe thought it fitting to end our journey at the famous Blue Lagoon. How could we possibly go to Iceland and not.

It is one of the most visited attractions in Iceland, with well over a million visitors per year. The Keflavik airport is only 12 miles away, so tour buses bring people directly there and back if they have a long enough layover to squeeze in a soak. That is why you need to book tickets at least a few days in advance, as time slots do fill up.

We waited a little too long and were only able to get a reservation for 6:00 pm, which actually worked out good for us, as we would be really relaxed for our flight home tomorrow morning.

Herb sporting his silica maskIt’s easy to see why it’s so popular.

It’s called the “Blue” Lagoon because of the water’s milky blue shade, which is due to its high silica content. The silica forms soft white mud found on the bottom of the lake lava rocks around it. The water is a comfortable 99–102 °F. What’s not to like?

We bought the Comfort Package (the least expensive one), which included entrance to the lagoon, a silica mud mask, a towel, and a free drink of our choice. For our date and time slot that was $104 per person.

Example of bad application of silicaThe premium package would have given us two additional facial masks and a bathrobe for another $20 or so, but we thought the Comfort package was decadent enough.

After our obligatory showers, HIlda and I met the guys who were already comfortably settled in the pool.

Our first order of business was to get in the line for the free silica mask. There was also an anti-aging mask, which I was considering, but that was not part of our package. The silica one, which promised to boost our skin’s barrier function and tighten our pores for a fresh and improved complexion, would have to be good enough

Sides of Blue LagoonOnce it was our turn, we scooped a big blob of a white gooey substance out of a bucket and proceeded to apply it to our faces with various degrees of skill.

Herb, Hilda, and Paul looked so cute and glamorous I, however, looked like a sad clown or a rabid albino racoon.

Along the edges of the Blue LagoonAs instructed, we kept the mask on for only 10 minutes before removing it by using one of the fresh water spigots alongside the pool.

Time for our next freebie (although it’s hard to think of it as really a freebie after paying $104) - a glass of wine or in Herb’s case, a beer.

I was so much happier with a wine in my hand and that stuff off my face.

Sides of the Blue LagoonThe edges of the pool are black lava rock covered with white silica, the same stuff we had on our faces not too long ago. We could have easily just scraped some off and reapplied it to our faces.

It’s really quite beautiful and colorful.

Despite its natural beauty, the Blue Lagoon is actually partially man-made. It dates back to 1976 when the pool of water, which is now the Blue Lagoon, was formed next to nearby Svartsengi geothermal power station.

Svartsengi geothermal power stationIt is not a natural hot spring – in fact, the water within is wastewater from the power plant!

After we were done with our soak, Herb and I took a "behind the scenes" stroll along a path near the geothermal plant.

That's not the official "Blue Lagoon" in the foreground, but a wastewater pool from the front. Maybe it would have been better not to know, but then again, it's good to know that that plant can both provide geothermal energy and a lovely experience for travelers.

Travelogue

FagradalsfjallIceland is still a very volcanically active place, so this morning we set off to explore the site of its most recent eruption - the Fagradalsfjall volcano, which erupted in 2021 and again in August of 2022, just 10 months ago.

We kidded that hopefully it wouldn’t choose today to erupt again. Perhaps we were prescient, because 4 weeks after we returned from Iceland, Fagradalsfjall erupted again, and it is still erupting now as I write this.

The latest eruption is close to the Fagradalsfjall volcano, but a little further north. This time, the lava is flowing from fissures in the ground between the peaks of Litli-Hrútur and Keilir. This is where scientists predicted the next one would occur.

FagradalsfjallFortunately, the volcano is in an uninhabited area of the Reykjanes peninsula, so there was no loss of life or damage to homes or infrastructure.

In Iceland volcanic eruptions are kind of a spectator sport, drawing thousands of people whenever one occurs, especially when it’s near Reykjavik, as this one was.

There is even the term: “tourist eruption,” which Icelanders use to describe a minor eruption that can be easily accessed. While my first reaction would be to get as far away from one as possible, Icelanders flee to it to watch the spectacular show nature is putting on.

FagradalsfjallOf course, geologists and authorities are constantly monitoring the safety of various areas and closing off those that are not safe.

So although we didn’t get to see red hot magma plumes and molten rock the size of cars shooting into the sky during our visit, we did get to see some pretty cool pitch-black lava flows, formed when the lava boiled up through the vents in the earth and poured down into the valley below, like a thick syrup. The lava flow from the 2022 eruption was massive.

PāhoehoeThe shiny blackness of the lava flow shows that it was from a recent eruption (in this case, it was about 10 months old). As time passes it will turn to a battleship gray and even a dull yellow-brown.

Signs warned us to stay off the lava as some of it is still hot. So, it didn’t even get time to cool off completely before the next eruption delivered some more.

The type of lava here is Pāhoehoe, a basaltic lava that has a smooth, undulating, or ropy surface. The ropy surfaces form as very fluid lava moves downstream dragging the cooling, congealing surface crust along with it.

The colors and textures are beautiful.

Fire and IceSince this volcano is only 25 minutes from Reykjavik, it became a "hot" attraction and crowds gathered to see it erupting. It must have been quite a sight, probably similar to what people are observing today.

I always thought

Iceland is often called the land of Fire and Ice, so we decided to take it literally.

With much sadness, we emptied our camper freezer and left our remaining glacial ice, plucked by my and Paul's own hands from the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, to spend its remaining days (or more correctly minutes) melting on volcanic rock recently spewed from a volcano.

It served us well during cocktail hour and will be missed.

Now back to Grindavik to do some packing.

Travelogue

Papa's RestaurantGrindavik, the end of the road - our final destination before flying back to the states. This, and Reykjavik, are the places that most travelers to Iceland’s journeys start and/or end.

It’s the closest town to Keflavik, the airport we would be flying out of, and it is also home to the famous Blue Lagoon geothermal spa, which we thought would be a nice way to wrap up our trip.

It was already late afternoon when we arrived in Grindavik, so after checking into the campground, we headed to town (on foot) with the intention of having dinner at Bryggjan Grindavik Netagerðin, a cafe and restaurant right on the harbor.

Unfortunately, only the restaurant was already closed for the day, and the cafe only served soup. The hostess was kind enough to recommend the nearby Papa’s as a very good alternative.

My fresh Icelandic trout at Bryggjan Grindavik NetagerðinIt looked promising as the sign by its door read: “Probably” the best fish in the world. Not just good fish, but the best fish. Having not had fish everywhere in the world, I can’t vouch for it being “the best,” but it was definitely very good and very fresh. The fact that almost all the other customers in the restaurant were locals also vouched for its probably being the best fish in the world.

Grindavík is still very much a fishing town with most of its inhabitants working in the fisheries. There is still an active fishing fleet in Grindavík and most of their catches go to the local factory that specializes in processing salted fish for export.

The town even has a museum called the Icelandic Saltfish Museum which explains how saltfish is produced and the essential role it played in Icelandic people’s survival during the country’s difficult past.

Bye Bye IcelandUnfortunately it was closed when we were there.

The next morning, all we needed to do was pack and clean up the van, and soak in the Blue Lagoon at 6:00 pm (the only time we could get because we waited too long to book).

That wouldn’t take all day, so we squeezed in a morning 3.5-mile hike to the Fagradalsfjall volcano (which is the one that is currently erupting in Iceland, just 2 weeks after we left). I felt that Fagradalsfjall was pretty awesome and worthy of a Trip Stop of its own.

The way I feel about IcelandAfter our hike, we finalized our packing and went out for a late lunch/early dinner at Bryggjan Grindavik Netagerðin, the restaurant that thwarted us yesterday. As we climbed the stairs to the restaurant upstairs, a large group of about 20 men and women dressed in orange (Coast Guard? Or fishermen) were just leaving. So, this must be the place.

The restaurant is also a fishnet making shop, because in Grindavik it's perfectly normal to have gourmet cooking and net making going on at the same time. There was a large glass window at one end of the restaurant through which we could observe the net making facility.

I can’t vouch for their net making, but the food was excellent. I had the fresh Icelandic trout, probably caught about an hour ago on the boat outside our window, served with melted butter, fried almonds, raisins, butter fried potatoes, and a light salat. Herb had the boring, but delicious fish and chips

Now it was time for our last event of the trip - our highly anticipated visit to the Blue Lagoon, also worthy of its own Trip Stop:

What an amazing trip it had been. Weeks later, I am still smiling!

Travelogue

Gas Station $3 hot dogAs we left the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and headed south to Grindavik, the realization hit that our trip was soon coming to an end.

We had accomplished an awful lot and seen so much of the beauty and culture of Iceland. However, there was one important part of Icelandic culture we had not experienced yet - the $3 gas station hot dog.

Iceland’s gas stations don’t just sell fuel. They also serve as a combination coffee shop, restaurant, grocery store, retail store and community center. Some even sell knitting supplies and farm implements.

Seltún Geothermal AreaA whole culture has developed around these stations and most locals have no problem dining out at the local N1. With the price of food at restaurants in Iceland, it’s a bargain, especially the $3 hot dogs.

I love immersing myself in the culture of a country. It's natural beauty isn't good bad either.

On our way to Grindavik, we decided to stop at the colorful Seltun Geothermal Area, not as large and dramatic as the Hverir Geothermal Area in Lake Myvatn, but still it has its fair share of steaming volcanic vents, fumaroles, mud pots and boiling hot springs.

Seltún Geothermal AreaIts close proximity to Reykjavik (just 25 miles), and to the parking lot, makes it a popular place to visit, as it was today.

After parking we headed out along a boardwalk that wound its way through the bubbling and hissing field. These are necessary to keep foolish people from stepping on the volcanic crust, breaking through, and scalding their feet - which as happened. The steam from a fumerole can well exceed 200 °F.

Colors of the Seltún Geothermal AreaI love the colors from the rich variety of minerals found in geothermal areas, especially the blues, greens, oranges, and yellows.

There were some whites and browns mixed in as well. Those are the sulfates but when it rains, they dissolve in water while the other minerals don't, leaving the brighter colors behind like at artist's palette.

Climbing the hill above the Seltun Geothermal AreaWe left the safety of the boardwalk and began climbing through the steam up a steep, rocky hill of lava rocks to the 400-foot summit.

The view from the top was definitely worth the climb. The hills were painted in earthy hues of golden brown, red, yellow, white, and gray, with Lake Kleifarvatn in the distance.

View from the hill above the Sulten Geothermal AreaThe lake lies on the fissure zone of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, so this is still a very active geothermal area.

The way back down across the rough path was like walking through an alien landscape of jagged moss-covered lava rocks.

In 1999 an explosion occurred near here when an experimental drill hole from 1948 got clogged up with deposits and blew up, creating a beautiful little geothermal pond. The explosion was so massive that it destroyed the coffee shed by Seltún.

Back down through the lava fieldIn 2010 another drill hole near the path started spouting hot mud, so it was tightly closed. The moral of the story is this is still an active volcanic area, and you don’t mess with that.

Now it was on the Grindavik where we would spend the last two nights of our Icelandic adventure - packing up, prepping the camper van for return, and, of course, visiting the famous Blue Lagoon.

Surprisingly Grindavik is much closer to the Keflavik Airport (Iceland's International Airport) than Reykjavik is.

Travelogue

BúðakirkjaOur final stop on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula was Búðakirkja (Black Church), known for its simplistic beauty, both the church and its remote surroundings.

The small hamlet of Búðir was once a prosperous fishing village and one of Snæfellsnes' most active trading posts until it was abandoned in the early 19th century. Today, all that remains of Búðir’s once thriving community is the black wooden church Búðakirkja, one of the most photographed churches in Iceland.

The original church in this location was a small turf chapel built in 1703 by a merchant named Bent Lárusson.

According to lore, when it came to deciding a location for the parish church, an old woman suggested making a man spin around in circles until he became dazed and then have him shoot three arrows into the air. Wherever the third arrow landed, that is where the church should be built. Makes sense.

BúðakirkjaThe original turf church was demolished in 1816 by orders of the Danish King. In 1848, the church was rebuilt by Steinunn Sveinsdóttir. Not sure what parishioners did in the long gap in between.

In 1984, the church was moved to its current location and some renovations were done to restore it to its original Danish design.

The church, which is now owned by the National Museum of Iceland, still has some artifacts dating back to the 1700s.

Travelogue

BárðurAfter leaving Djúpalónssandur, we continued along Útnesvegur (the road around the western half of the Snæfellsnes peninsula) just a few miles to Arnarstapi, a village on the southern side of the peninsula, with access to a beautiful coastal walk to the tiny village of Hellnar.

We checked into the Arnarstapi Campground, which is located close to the start of the coastal walk. The village is so small that it is pretty much close to everything. I couldn’t find the campground office at first, so I went into a pizza place to ask, only to find out that this also served as the campground office.

Off to Hellnar we goRight next to the campground was the Jules Verne Monument. I didn’t realize that “Journey to the Center of the Earth” took place on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, and Arnastapi played an important role. It was the last stop on the route Professor Otto Lidenbrock and his crew took before they climbed Snæfellsjökull and entered the interior of the planet through a tunnel in the crater.

Along the Arnastapi to Hellnar hikeThe plaque reads, ‘Here begins The Voyage to the Centre of the Earth, which lies 6,371 kilometres below.”

Iceland’s dramatic scenery certainly does make one believe that fantastical things can happen here.

Speaking of fantastical things, when I asked the campground/pizza host how to get to the trail to Hellnar, she pointed out the window and said, “Head to the big troll, and turn right.” Where else but in Iceland would directions include a troll as a landmark.

Hellnahraun lava field with Mt. Stapafell in backgroundSo we set off for the large stone Troll, whose name is Bárður. Bárður is not just any old troll but rather he is an important figure in the Icelandic Sagas and the guardian spirit of the Snæfellsnes peninsula.

Made out of stone sourced locally, it was designed and created by a sculptor called Ragnar Kjartansson to represent the story that has captured the minds of locals and tourists alike for hundreds of years.

Approaching the Fjöruhúsið CaféAccording to the ancient sagas, Bárður was the first settler of this area of Iceland (back in the 9th century) and gave the peninsula its name Snæfellsnes, which in Icelandic directly translates to Snow Mountain Peninsula.

Oh, and he was half man and half troll.

When he decided that he could no longer live with humans, he went up into the mountain to live in the Snæfellsjökull glacier, where he still roams to this very day. Bárður is still very important to Icelandic culture, and has become a nature spirit that local people often ask for help in matters large and small.

Fjöruhúsið CaféHmm…I wonder if Professor Otto Lidenbrock ever ran into Bárður before his descent into the volcano on this way to the center of the Earth. We have been so immersed in this way of thinking, that I would believe anything at this point

Anyway, on to Hellnar. After saying hello to Bárður, we turned right along the coastal trail towards Hellnar. The scenery along the way was breathtaking - with lots of unique, moss-covered rock formations and sea stacks along the coast.

Beach below the Fjöruhúsið CaféAs we continued towards Hellnar, the terrain became rockier and more volcanic as we crossed the Hellnahraun lava field, where there were volcanic rocks of all sizes covered in a vibrant green moss.

Meanwhile on the right, pyramid-shaped Mount Stapafell, rose 1,700 feet above us, seemingly rising out of the lava field.

Valasnös basalt cliffBesides the incredible scenery, another reason to hike to Hellnar is the Fjöruhúsið Café of Hellnar, a picturesque Cafe on the Hellnar harbor, surrounded by rocks and bird cliffs. I had been dreaming of having coffee at this cafe even before we left for the trip. That’s why I was devastated when I saw on Google that the cafe closed at 5:00 and it was already 5:30.

But what should we see as we approached the tiny Fjöruhúsið Café, but a group of people still sitting on the outdoor deck. So we hadn’t missed out after all. I have a feeling that the closing hours are quite flexible, and that it stays open as long as there are still customers.

Running out of suppliesSo we did get to have a cup of coffee there after all, in lovely old-fashioned porcelain cups, overlooking the water and rocky cliffs. Why is it that how good a coffee tastes is highly correlated to the beauty of the surrounding scenery? So, in this case, it was a 10.

After our coffee break, we explored the beach area below the cafe, in an attempt to find Baðstofa, a sea cave in the center of Valasnös (a basalt cliff face), famous for displaying changing colors as the sun and sea reflect off its walls. Unfortunately, we weren’t there at the right time of day for that, but still the basalt cliff and surrounding beach were quite interesting.

Morning walk to Arnarstapi HarboThe beach was composed of a mix of black and white polished rocks, formed from different periods of the same volcanic eruptions. Apparently, it’s pretty rare to see them together like this on a beach. They were a bit tricky to walk over.

If ever there was a place that looked like a troll’s home, Valasnös was it.

From there, we turned around and walked back from whence we came - across the lava field, along the beautiful coastline, past Bárður, and back to the campground.

Gatklettur - Arch RockThat night we had dinner in the van again - Herb’s pylsurs, Idahoan powdered potatoes, and carrots.

I could tell we were nearing the end of our trip, as we ran out of supplies (such as paper towels) and improvised with what we had (6 rolls of toilet paper). I think this is how anarchy begins. We still did have a nice bottle of Cab left, so it wasn’t a total loss of civilization.

The next morning before leaving Arnarstapi, the plan was to walk the coastal trail in the other direction, towards the Arnarstapi Harbor.

Eystrigjá, the famous natural stone bridgeHerb was awake before the rest of us, so he took his camera and went on a stroll down to the coast. He wasn’t gone long before he returned somewhat flustered and said that he had been attacked by some very aggressive birds. Attacked might have been a bit of a hyperbole, as when further questioned it turned out to be more of a warning divebomb.

The grotto below the Stone BridgeAfter I stopped laughing, I told him that I thought that I read somewhere about aggressive birds in Arnarstapi. I googled it and sure enough there was an entire article about Arctic Terns dive bombing and pooping on people. At least he hadn’t been shat upon I told him. He was not amused.

Arctic Terns in GrottoI have to admit though that I was a bit frightened about going out there. Fortunately, they were gone by the time we left on our hike.

This time, when we got to the Troll, we turned left (north) along the coastal trail.

This way was equally beautiful as our walk yesterday in the other direction. All along the coast there were small rocky islands and reefs called “skerries,” after the Old Norse word “sker.” They are also known as sea stacks and are usually found in clusters.

Herb's vantage point from the other side of the grottoWe soon came to a rock named Gatklettur, famous for its natural rock arch formation. The circular arch was formed by centuries of waves eroding away at it, causing beautiful swirl patterns. This is probably the most iconic and photographed rock formation in Arnarstapi.

As I continued on merrily walking along a grassy path in search of Eystrigjá, the famous natural stone bridge that you can walk across, Herb yelled to me to be careful because I was about to walk out on it. What???

Amtmannshúsið black house across the pondOh wow!

The natural bridges and arches I knew, protruded above the ground, but this one's top was at ground level and the narrow grassy path I was about to continue on had a big dropoff on one side to a water-filled grotto about 40 feet deep

Herb was all the way on the other side of the grotto when he saw me and Hilda unknowingly stepping out on the bridge.

Amtmannshúsið houseThe vertical walls of the grotto below us were adorned with hexagonal basalt columns, many of which had arctic tern (or seagull?) nests atop them. There was lots of bird activity going on below.

On top of each of the column, a pair of Arctic Terns build a nest. One parent remains with the chick, while the other flies out to sea, hunting to provide precious calories for their newly hatched chicks.

Arctic Tern colonyThese harmless looking birds, which actually look very much like regular seagulls, are quite amazing. Every year they migrate from the Arctic to Antarctica and back, traveling 44,300 miles. No other known animal on the planet has a regular migration route that comes even close to being as long.

Arnastarpi Natural HarborEach year, these birds, who generally mate for life, return to the same mating grounds. That is the only time they come in contact with humans - hence the aggressive dive bombing and pooping Herb had experienced this morning. They were just being good parents protecting their young. I would do the same.

Refinding the Stone BridgeWe came to a pond, across which sat a picturesque dark wooden house called Amtmannshúsið, with pyramid-shaped Stapafell rising above it. Everything in Iceland seems to be given a name - houses, rocks, trolls, etc. - not of which are pronounceable.

This house was built in the 1770’s when Iceland was under the control of Denmark, and served as the official residence of the Danish regional governor. Iceland did not win its independence from Denmark until 1944.

As we approached the Arnarstapi Harbor, we looked down from a bluff at a rocky promontory covered with arctic terns. Thousands of them nest in Arnarstapi every summer after their long migration.

Goodbye BárðurFishing and trade are still important to the economy of Arnarstapi, but they now play second fiddle to tourism, as Iceland has definitely been discovered by travelers from around the world.

On our way back to the campground, we tried to find the Stone Bridge again, but it wasn't so easy. Perhaps, if it was more accurately called the "grassy path across a hidden grotto" it would have been more obvious. Finally, we figured if we went back to the spot where Herb took the photo of me about to step on the bridge, we could find it.

Well, we got close. The first time Herb had sat near the edge of the grotto. This time there was a small pond separating him from the grotto's edge. But we could see the bridge across the way, so Herb stayed here while I walked around the edge of the grotto to get to the bridge.

What a beautiful hike it had been, both yesterday afternoon's and this morning's. Goodbye Bárður. Thanks for looking after us while we visited your beautiful land.

Travelogue

Djúpalónssandur lava fieldOur next stop was Djúpalónssandur Beach, also known as Black Lava Pearl Beach, on the southern coast of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

After parking the van, we walked through an incredible field with huge lava formations, which seemed right out of a scene from Game of Thrones.

If ever there was a world elves and trolls would inhabit, this was it.

My little trollIn fact, many Icelandic sagas are strongly connected with this dramatic black pebble beach, and it is considered to be one of the most famous elves and trolls locations in Iceland.

As the lava field path came to an end, we found ourselves on Djúpalónssandur Beach, covered with small, smooth, black stones.

Polished black stones of DjúpalónssandurThese stones have been polished by Atlantic Ocean waves since the last eruption of Snæfellsjökull in 200 AD. Locals call them Djúpalónsperlur (Pearls of Djúpalón) - hence the name Black Lava Pearl Beach.

These “pearls” are protected and not allowed to be removed from the beach. Remember, trolls are always watching

Troll woman KerlingThe beach itself is surrounded by a rugged and dramatic landscape, with rocky cliffs and weird rock formations. .

According to the ancient sagas, most of the large stones rising from the sand on this beach are trolls that were turned into stone when they saw daylight, as this is what happens to trolls in Iceland.

Söngklettur - the Singing Rock (Church of the Elves)The tallest one in the back is a Troll woman named Kerling that made the mistake of staying out past sunrise. Not sure what trolls are supposed to do in summer when there is always daylight.

And it’s not just trolls that inhabit these rocks. Elves live here as well. The large reddish lava rock that I am walking towards in this photo is Söngklettur - the Singing Rock. It is said to be the Church of the Elves! Local people have claimed to hear singing and beautiful organ music coming from this rock.

The ridge above DjúpalónssandurUnlike trolls, which can usually be quite evil, the elves that inhabit this rock are good. They are called "huldufólk" - the Hidden People of Iceland.

However, if you don't respect their homes or churches, they can get a little feisty.

From the beach, we took a trail up along a ridge overlooking the beach and followed it a little over a mile across a lava field to another beach on Dritvik cove

Dritvik HarborDritvík has a natural harbor encircled by high lava walls. From the 16th century until the mid 19th century, it was the largest seasonal fishing station in Iceland, with 40-60 boats and 200-600 seasonal fishermen. All that remains of that time is an orange structure, which served as a refuge for the fishermen.

On the way back to the parking lot, we passed a set of four stones of various weights and sizes, ranging from 23 kg (about 50 lbs) to 154 kg (about 340 lbs).

Two little troublesome elvesThey are called Aflraunasteinar - Steinatök or the lifting stones, and they were once used to measure the strength of Icelandic fishermen. The more they could lift, the better position they got on the ship and the more respect they earned.

I wanted to have Herb take a photo of me lifting the smallest one, but he ran off thinking I was trying to get him to test his strength and determine his position in the camper van. Herb has a bad back, so his excuse was that no good could come of this and he did not want to rely on me having to drive the camper van after he pulled his back out.

Instead, Hilda and I tried to show our agility and strength by climbing through an arch in a rock. We looked like two little elves up to no good. This place was starting to rub off on us.