Travelogue

Parting Ways with Andrew and CelesteDrive, drive, drive. That’s all there was on the itinerary for the day. Originally, we had planned to break up the day and spend the night in Firehole Canyon, part of Flaming Gorge Recreational Area, but the kids were getting antsy to get to their final destinations.

We picked up Andrew’s supposedly fixed car in Fort Collins, where the manager mumbled something incoherent about what they had done to resolve the problem. We were not very confident.

Andrew had to prepare a presentation for an interview, so I drove his car while he rode in the motorhome working on his laptop. I must say I kind of enjoyed cruising across Wyoming by myself, just watching the scenery go by and listening to the radio. After scanning through all the available radio stations, I soon came to realize that my content choices were limited to songs about Jesus or the price of cattle and pigs. I spent the next hours flipping back and forth between the two. You certainly can learn a lot about a region’s priorities by listening to what they broadcast.

As I was driving Andrew’s car, I didn’t think too much about his air conditioning, so the fact that cool rather than cold air was blowing out of the vents didn’t really alarm me. I was comfortable enough. Also, since I was driving behind the RV, I kept my mph under 60, unlike Andrew, who when driving tended to zoom ahead of us at about 75. This would become an important piece of evidence later.

Camping at Ogden UtahWe met up at a rest area along I80 near the western border of Wyoming to make the transfer. This was the spot where we would part – Andrew and Celeste continuing on the San Francisco, and Herb, Tommy, and I to Seattle.

The weather had turned a bit scary – ominous clouds on the horizon and very strong winds. We quickly made the transfer of belongings – moving all of Andrew and Celeste’s stuff from the RV to their now very overstuffed Honda. Well, almost everything. We still had custody of Celeste’s yoga block.

The threat of the approaching storm cut our goodbyes short, which was probably a good thing. I don’t think I could have taken a long drawn out one.

We headed back out on the highway and soon lost sight of Andrew’s car, which sped ahead. Tommy continued along behind us. Less than a half hour had passed before we got the dreaded phone call from Andrew that his a/c was cycling again and occasionally blowing hot air. We had had enough experience with this since New Jersey, so we knew that it wasn’t a good sign. We told him to stop in a rest area and we would meet him. Herb and I tried to figure out why the a/c had worked for me, and we came up with two theories. 1) I was too oblivious listening to the price of pork bellies to realize that it wasn’t really working right, 2) Andrew drives faster than me and his little overloaded car just couldn’t handle the extra effort. It was probably a combination of the two.

At the rest area, we found a discouraged Andrew and Celeste cooking Annie’s Mac and Cheese on a camping stove. Herb looked at his car, but basically had no suggestions except to bring it into another Midas shop when they got to California. In the meantime, the best way to prevent breaking down again was to not run their a/c and risk the chance of breaking another alternator belt. Easy to say, but not so easy to do, as the Nevada desert, which was currently experiencing record high heat, lay between them and California. I was a wreck. I suggested following them to California, but that idea was quickly shot down by everyone.

Andrew said they would just drive as far as they could during the cooler temperatures of the night. Unfortunately, we had already been on the road for about 7 or 8 hours, so I wasn’t sure how much driving stamina they had left. Fortunately, I had driven Andrew’s car for a good portion of the day, so he was a bit rested. Also, Celeste could take a turn at the wheel. From Salt Lake City to Reno was 532 miles, and the towns along I80 through Nevada were often separated by 50 miles of nothingness. I was really nervous now.

We said our goodbyes again, but only after the promise that they would call us frequently with updates on their progress.

They made it as far as Elko, Nevada that night, which still left them with 300 more miles to Reno the next day. Elko and its ubiquitous casinos was not exactly their cup of tea, but Andrew did manage to win $1. Maybe things were picking up.

Meanwhile, we continued on and found a nice campground to spend the night in Ogden, Utah. It was late, so about all we had time for was dinner and more worrying about Andrew and Celeste.

Description

The Century Mobile Home and RV Park is a commercial campground in Ogden, Utah, right off I15 with a nice pool and pleasant sites.

Travelogue

Picnicking at Hidden ValleyAndrew’s car still wasn’t working right, so we arranged to drop it off at a Midas shop in Fort Collins en route to Rocky Mountain National Park. We would have to be heading back out that way again anyway after our two-day stay at the park, so it really wasn’t too much out of our way to drop it off and forget about it for a few days. This was getting a bit ridiculous, but we figured as long as the car’s air conditioning was under warranty from the first repair in a Ohio Midas, we might as well keep trying to see if someone could fix it. We were becoming entirely too familiar with the Midas Regional Manager, who Herb called on a daily basis to vent about the crappy repair done in Ohio that, besides costing over $1,000, was now ruining our vacation.

The drive from Loveland west to Estes Park on Route 34 along the Big Thompson River was spectacular, tracing the twists and turns of the river. I was sad to read that the terrible floods in this area in September have caused much destruction, and this road is still closed as of this writing (November).

Tommy helping Lolo Cross the CreekOnce again, as in 2011, we decided to stay outside the park at the Mary’s Lake Campground in Estes Park. Actually the decision was made for us, as it was a weekend and all campgrounds inside the national park were full. The campground owner was kind enough to let us all squeeze on one site and park the extra cars near the office. The campgrounds proximity to the park entrance made it an ideal base camp for exploring the park.

Before setting out into the park, we decided to take a dip in the campground pool, but the presence of a rowdy scout troop made it far from relaxing. After having our cell phones and Kindles repeatedly soaked by the splashes of kids jumping in the “No Jumping Allowed” pool, we went back to our campsite and prepared to go for an exploratory ride into the park.

Bear Lake's Eastern ShoreWe loaded up camera gear and a cooler full of hors d'oeuvres (and a few libations) and drove through the east entrance of the park onto the very beautiful Trail Ridge Road. While this road winds and twists for 50 miles through the entire park past incredible vistas of snow-covered peaks, alpine meadows, and much wildlife, our goal for the late afternoon/evening was much less ambitious – perhaps about 15 miles in, stopping at various scenic viewpoints and then finding a nice place to picnic.

We drove as far as Many Parks Curve to take some photos, before turning around to hunt for a place to picnic. The national park map had a little picnic table icon at Hidden Valley, so we thought we would give it a try. It was lovely, with picnic tables spaced out along the rather steep slope. This was actually once a Ski Area and is still used in the winter for sledding and tubing.

On Route to Lake HeleneWe marched up the hill with coolers filled with appetizers and a few beers and selected what we felt to be the best table. Always capable of having fun with the materials we had, the kids developed a game of Rocky Mountain National Park trivial pursuits, by which they used the National Park map to ask questions, such as “What year did it become a national park,” “How many named peaks does it have,” etc. Gradually the questions became more and more impossible, such as “When was the first major glacial episode.” It was around then that we quit and made a new game – sucker Andrew into bringing the coolers back to the car (so that we could hike) by making it a competitive event. We dared him that he couldn’t run down the steep hill to the car, put the coolers in the trunk, and get back to us in less than 3 minutes. He took the bait, and soon he was careening down the hill like a madman, tossing stuff in the trunk rather randomly, and then making the final climb back to us. He made it, but I think he didn’t account for the high altitude and definitely felt it was probably a stupid idea.

Lolo on Lake Helene HikeUnencumbered by coolers, we hiked up the hill. Part of the hike involved crossing a stream on rocks, which has never been my forte. Fortunately, Tommy who always keeps an eye out for me on these adventures, stepped in the water and helped me across. It was a lovely hike.

It was time to get back to the campground as we were expecting Tommy’s friend John, who would be joining us for the weekend. John is Tommy’s friend from high school who now lives in Colorado Springs. He always tries to meet up with us when we are passing through Colorado. Fortunately dinner was very easy that night. I had made a batch of Lasagna before we left on the trip, so all I had to do was hit that little Reheat button on the Microwave – my favorite type of cooking in the motorhome. That combined with one of Celeste’s salads made for a very nice dinner.

Just as we were finishing dinner, some pretty serious storm clouds moved in. I really love watching storms in the west. In New Jersey, if you see a storm, you are pretty much in it, but with the long vistas out west, you can be a casual observer of some pretty spectacular activity. Fortunately, the storm did not move our way, so we were able to watch the bursts of lightning, like we were sitting at a fireworks display.

The sleeping arrangements were a little different than our last time at this campground, when John had chosen to sleep on the roof of our motorhome, much to the amusement of our fellow campers. This time, John and Tommy slept in the back of John’s truck – a step up in accommodations for Tommy, who had been sleeping on the RV floor. Unfortunately, the next morning Tommy’s brand new thermorest pad was deflated. Apparently, there were some small pieces of broken glass in the back of the truck that he had placed his pad on.

Lake Helene Hikers Lunching in RainThis was our one full day to enjoy the park, so we wanted to make the most of it. Tommy and John were more familiar with the park, having lived in Boulder for two summers, so we left it up to them to select a hike. They thought we might like the hike to Lake Helene from the Bear Lake Trailhead at the end of Bear Lake Road. I first made Tommy swear to me that he wasn’t going to make me traverse across a steep, narrow snow path like he did last year on our hike to Chasm Lake. I still have flashbacks. He assured me that I would be fine.

The problem with the Bear Lake area is that it is so popular that it is often difficult, if not impossible, to find parking. Because of that we decided to take the shuttle from the Visitor Center, and were even waiting at the shuttle stop when a park volunteer told us that if we left right away in our car, we should still be able to find parking at the trailhead. Foolishly, we listened.

We drove all the way to the end of Bear Lake Road, only to be turned back by a ranger informing us that the parking lot was full. Unsure what to do at first, we let Tommy and John convince us to get out and wait for them while they drove back to the closest shuttle stop, parked, and walked back to join us. It was really nice of them and it took a pretty long time. I got a little annoyed when I saw the park volunteer that told us we would find parking here get off the shuttle bus – a good half hour before Tommy and John eventually joined us.

Lake Helene HikersThe hike to Lake Helene led us along the eastern shore of lovely Bear Lake before rising quickly through an aspen forest. In about a half mile, we came to a trail junction, and took the left towards Odessa Lake. Approximately another half mile further, we came to the Flattop Mountrail Trail split, and took a right towards Odessa Lake. About a mile further on, the forest opened and we crossed a short, but steep, scree field covered in snow. I gave Tommy a dirty look about this point, but it turned out to not be bad at all to cross. At roughly 3.2 miles we reached an unmarked side trail on the left that led to Lake Helene. It’s easy to miss. If the trail makes a sharp turn to the right and begins to descend, you have gone too far.

Meanwhile, storm clouds were moving in, and just as we reached the lake a gentle, but steady, rain began to fall. Weather changes so quickly in these mountains that you really have to be prepared. We had started out in shorts and t-shirts and were now in fleece and rain jackets, and still cold. Any thoughts of continuing on to Odessa Lake were extinguished. We huddled together, ate our peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, took some photos, and agreed to head down for fear that we would be caught in a thunder storming – not something you want to have happen here.

Picnicking at Lily LakeIt was quite beautiful though, and I wish we had caught it under better weather conditions. Along the north shores of this lovely alpine lake, rises aptly named high Notchtop Mountain.

I am always quite frightened of getting caught in a thunderstorm, which is a very likely possibility when hiking in the Rockies in the afternoon. However, fortunately, the skies cleared on our way down and we were already warm and dry by the time we got back to Bear Lake.

By the time we got back to the campground, weather had cleared up very nicely. We decided to pack up some appetizers and drive a short distance down Route 7 to a picnic area on Lily Lake, another lovely lake just inside the boundaries of the park. Although we were laughing and having a grand old time, I was beginning to feel a sense of sadness. This was the last night we would be together as a family for a long, long time. Tomorrow we would caravan together for awhile before splitting off – Tommy, Herb, and I to Seattle and Andrew and Celeste to San Francisco. I would miss John too, who would be heading back to Colorado Springs. Who knew when we would all be together like this again.

That night we went out to dinner at the Rock Inn Mountain Tavern. As I looked across the table at the boys, I tried to turn my feelings of loss of the past to the promise of the future. I already missed the little boys they had been – so much so that it physically hurt, but was so very proud of the wonderful young men they had become. It was the start of a brand new journey.
 

Description

Hidden Valley HikeRocky Mountain National Park in north central Colorado encompasses 415 square miles of towering mountain peaks, alpine glaciers, dense forests, beautiful alpine meadows, and pristine lakes. Within the park there are more than 75 peaks above 12,000 feet, the highest of which is Longs Peak, at 14,255 feet. One-third of the park is above the treeline, where tundra predominates.

The major activities in the park include hiking and backpacking along the more than 355 miles of trails, mountain climbing the many peaks, and wildlife viewing (mountain goats, elk, deer, bear, and bighorn sheep, which have become the symbol of the park).

An excellent way to see many of the park's highlights is to drive the scenic 50-mile-long Trail Ridge Road, which rises to over 12,000 feet and crosses the Continental Divide. The road crosses the park from Estes Park in the east to Grand Lake in the southwestern corner of the park winds it way 12,183 feet above sea level into a world similar to the arctic regions of Alaska and Siberia. Along the way there are spectacular views of snow-covered peaks, alpine meadows full of wildflowers, deep forests, and much wildlife. Because of snow, the road usually does not open until Memorial Day and closes again in October.

Rest Break on Hike to Lake HeleneAbout halfway along Trail Ridge Road, at a 12,110 elevation, is the Rock Cut parking area, which is the trailhead for the Tundra Nature Trail, an easy ½ mile hike that provides a close-up look at the hardy plants and animals that survive the harsh tundra environment at this elevation. A little further along the road is the Alpine Visitor Center. From here the short Alpine Ridge Trail climbs from the Visitor Center up a series of steps through the tundra to an excellent viewpoint.

There are many other excellent hiking opportunities in the park, including several along the Bear Lake Road. Most of these hikes offer tremendous views of mountain lakes and waterfalls. The 3.6 mile round trip Emerald Lake Hike starts at Bear Lake and goes past 2 more lakes before its final destination, Emerald Lake. The 1.2 mile round trip Alberta Falls Trail is an easy hike along a creek to the very pretty Alberta Falls.

There are 4 RV campgrounds in the park, only 2 of which take reservations. Campgrounds usually fill up by noon.

Travelogue

Swimming in "Big Mac"Anyone that has read any of our previous trips will know that Lake McConaughy is another one of our favorite stepping stones on our treks across the U.S. We had first it in 2001 (thanks to the National Geographic Guide to the State Parks of the U.S.) and have been back 5 or 6 times since.

It's hardly off route when traveling west on Route 80, and it's really a very lovely stop.

The lake, or more correctly reservoir, is really quite pretty--beautiful aquamarine water surrounded by miles of sandy shoreline that you can drive your RV on and camp for the night. Although we have done that in the past, there was no way we were going to attempt that with our caravan. Instead I had reserved in advance two campsites in the Little Thunder, a developed campground on asphalt along the lake’s northern shore. Also, it was extremely hot, so the ability to plug into an electrical outlet and run the a/c was a big plus.

It was already late afternoon when we arrived, so we quickly filled a cooler, grabbed our gear, and headed down to the beach, just a short walk from our campsite.

Frisbee "Beer Pong"It wasn’t long before the boys roped me into playing a game. “It’s a simple game,” they explained. All that was needed were 2 tall sticks stuck into the ground about 10 yards apart, 2 red solo cups placed over the tops of each of the sticks, a Frisbee, and a cooler of beer. I soon learned that the cooler of beer was really the only piece of equipment that mattered. It was sort of beer pong without the ping pong table. Basically, there were two teams – me and Tommy vs. Andrew and Celeste, while Herb looked on skeptically about the wisdom of this game. The object was to throw the Frisbee and hit the other team’s red cup. If we did, they had to drink some beer; if we didn’t, we had to. I wasn’t sure which outcome I was looking for – it was pretty hot out. If the Frisbee didn’t hit the cup and the other team caught it, then the team that threw it had to drink – or something like that.

I was finally at that point in life where I was playing drinking games with my sons. I guess that was a good thing. At least they still wanted to play with me. It was fun, and a refreshing swim afterwards made it even more so.

Enjoying Andrew's Annie’s Mac, Cheese, and Tuna DinnerSince I had reserved and paid for two campsites, we decided that Andrew and Celeste should leave the comforts of the motorhome and set up their tent on the adjacent site. This would at least mean that Tommy didn’t have to spend the night on the floor wedged between the refrigerator and the dinette.

Andrew was our chef that evening and did wonders with Annie’s Mac and Cheese and tuna, and Celeste did her magic with a salad.
As always, Lake McConaughy had been a fun stop, but this time leaving it felt different – sadder. Now that we would be leaving the motorhome stored on the West Coast, we wouldn’t be making those long treks across the U.S. anymore, and we wouldn’t be passing by good old Lake McConaughy. I always have a tough time with “last times.” It was like saying goodbye to a dear old friend.

Description

Relaxing on the beach after "Frisbee Pong"Lake McConaughy, nicknamed "Big Mac," is the largest reservoir in Nebraska. It is located just a few miles off Interstate 80 near the Colorado border. The reservoir, which is over 20 miles long and 4 miles wide when at full capacity, was formed on the Platte River by the Kingsley Dam. The lake has over 100 mile of white-sand beaches along its shore line.

To Nebraskans, the main attraction of Lake McConaughy is water activities--swimming, boating, windsurfing, skiing, and world-class fishing. Trophy size catfish, walleye, stripers, bass, and trout have been caught in "Big Mac."

The park has 200 tent and RV sites. However, most people choose to primitive camp right on the beach at the water's edge. Camping is on a first-come first-serve basis.

Travelogue

Biking to Beach at Lake Anita - AJGLake Anita State Park has come to be one of our stepping stones as we trek back and forth across the country—kind of a reliable and comfortable old friend. Situated just a short distance off I80 in western Iowa, Lake Anita is within 2 days striking distance from our home in New Jersey – that is if you aren’t stopping in every other state for a car repair. Okay, so this year things were a little rougher, so Lake Anita was night 3 rather than night 2 on our cross country trek.

As in every year passed, we arrived with only about two hours of sunlight left in the day – just enough to get some much needed exercise after a full day of just sitting.

The first order of business was finding a campsite, and I felt pretty sure that our motorhome plus 3 cars put us in the 2 campsite category. However, after our second pass through the campground looking for two nice sites next to each other down by the lake, the campground host stopped us and said we were welcome to all squeeze on one campsite if we could fit. The result was a modern day version of Conestoga wagons circling for the evening after a long, hard day on the trail – not too far off from the way we felt.

Andrew and Celeste at Lake Anita SunsetOne of the things I like best about Lake Anita is that unlike most state parks that we have been to, you can actually camp right on the lake and even swim in it if you choose. The beach is on the other side of the lake from the campground, but easily accessible via the lovely 5-mile trail that circles the lake.

We quickly donned our bathing suits and hopped on our bikes for an evening ride. It really was much fun. It felt so exhilarating to be out of the RV and soaring through space under our own volition. Just like Herb used to do in years past, Andrew kept peddling ahead and jumping off his bike to take our pictures as we approached.

Andrew and Celeste Preparing Gourmet DinnerOnce on the other side of the lake, we stopped at the beach for a quick swim, before continuing back to throw together dinner. Actually, with Celeste along, dinner is never just thrown together, but rather an event to be enjoyed both aesthetically and socially. I have never seen anyone enjoy slicing and dicing vegetables with such devotion and skill. It was like having our own private chef along. It was also nice, and somewhat surprising, to see how Andrew had become so capable and enthusiastic about his role in the dinner preparation.

Fortunately, the weather and the mosquitoes cooperated, and we were able to have dinner outside rather than being cramped in the ever-shrinking RV.

Sunset over the lake was spectacular as always. In our 5 times here, I don’t think there has ever been a bad one yet.

Description

Modern Day Conestoga WagonsLake Anita State Park is located in southwest Iowa about 5 miles south of Interstate 80. The park, which contains a beautiful 171-acre artificial lake, is very popular for swimming, fishing and boating.

There is a campground with 144 sites, all within easy access of the lake.

Travelogue

Lolo ready for a Chicken FightThree hours of driving was about all we wanted to do after starting so late in the day, but it at would put a few more miles under our belt so that the next day’s drive to Lake Anita in Iowa wouldn’t be so grueling. The always handy Woodall Guide helped me find a KOA with a pool just outside of Indianapolis and not too far off of I70. We usually like to get into camp by no later than 6:30, so that we have a chance to relax and have a nice dinner. Also, I thought the pool sounded pretty good on such a hot day.

The pool was fun. Somehow Tommy convinced me to stand on his shoulders and take on Andrew and Celeste in a chicken fight. I am definitely getting too old for this, but as long as the boys think of me as young enough to do something as stupid as this, I wasn’t about to change their minds. I must say that being around them always makes me feel about 20 years younger.

Kids and Celeste Sleeping in RV KitchenStorm clouds were moving in, so we went back to our campsite so that Andrew and Celeste could set up their tent before the rain started. This was to be our first night of camping, and the plan for the trip was Andrew and Celeste would camp in a tent, and Tommy would sleep on the dinette bed. The bed over the cab was out of commission due to the tons of stuff we were transporting cross country. In fact, to make matters worse, much of their stuff was spilling over into the main part of the RV. Celeste had a yoga block the size of a small coffee table and Tommy had a computer case equally as large. The evening ritual included lugging these items into the driver and passenger seat of the motorhome, so that we could at least maneuver around the RV, which seemed to be shrinking in size as each day passed.

Our outdoor dining was cut short by mosquitoes and the threat of rain, so we moved inside. It was kind of cozy, so much so that Andrew and Celeste decided it would be nicer to sleep in the RV too. That began the new sleeping arrangement – Andrew and Celeste mushed on the dinette and Tommy (always the good sport) on the floor between the dinette and the refrigerator. This was going to be a very long trip.

Description

Caravan at Rest StopThe Indianapolis KOA is a commercial campground right off I40 with a nice pool and pleasant sites.

Travelogue

Andrew's wounded Honda CivicThis was it -- the final drive of the motorhome out of the driveway. From this point on it would live on the West Coast, as would the boys. Tommy had just graduated from Williams College and was headed to Seattle to work for Microsoft. Andrew had just graduated from the Yale Graduate School of Forestry and Environmental Studies and was headed to San Francisco to follow up on some job leads. Along with us this journey, we also had Andrew’s girlfriend Celeste, who like Tommy had also just graduated from Williams and was going to work for the San Francisco city government.

Spirits were high, as well as emotions. This after all had been their home for their entire lives and now they were leaving the nest, and not just a few towns away, but to the opposite coast. Boy, this was going to be a tough one.

The Caravan arrives at Jim and Bev'sWe were only about 3 hours into the trip before Andrew had his first breakdown – not him, but his car. They were slightly ahead of us and called from a rest area that their alternator belt had ripped apart and flew somewhere onto the highway. Andrew was unfortunately familiar with alternator belts because of a recent journey to Savannah, Georgia where his air conditioner compressor decided to break, resulting in many lost hours and dollars. Obviously, the $800 they sunk into that repair was money thrown to the wind, as here we were again with the same problem.

Things were getting pretty tense and we had about another 2,800 miles of family fun to look forward to. Our first trip photos were of the tow truck bringing the poor little Honda to a nearby Meineke to have the belt replaced. 4 hours and $120 later (to replace the belt), we were back on the road, headed to my brother Jim’s house in Columbus, OH. Unfortunately, our plans for a 4:00 BBQ were now significantly pushed back a few hours.

Late Night BBQAlthough the Meineke manager assured us that the air conditioning compressor was fine and that the problem was due to the belt not being tight enough, it wasn’t long before Andrew started having the same symptoms he had on his way to Georgia and again earlier today – the air conditioning cycling on and off. Apparently, this is a tell tale sign that something is seriously wrong with the air compressor. To prevent further calamities, we decided to make an appointment at a Midas shop near my brother’s house for the next morning – just to make sure everything was alright before we made the big push across the country.

We finally arrived at Jim’s around 8:30 that night, exhausted by our long, frustrating first day. Fortunately my brother and his wife are the most upbeat and fun hosts anyone could ask for, so it wasn’t long before we were relaxed and having fun.

Chef Jim does BreakfastThe next morning, we dropped the car off at Midas and asked for an estimate. We almost fell over when he said that the whole compressor had to be replaced, since Andrew had just had this done in Georgia. We had always expected that his selection of a car mechanic at midnight on I95 was probably not the wisest. Fearing more problems crossing the country, we decided to bite the bullet and pay the $1,300 for a complete redo of the air conditioning system. He assured us over and over that this would be guaranteed to solve the a/c problem and that they definitely would have no problem crossing the country in this vehicle – at least no problem stemming from the a/c system. Although unhappy about the price, I felt some sense of relief that at least we wouldn’t have to worry about the car constantly breaking down.

White the Honda was being worked on, we headed out for a family walk at the local Hoover Dam – that’s right, Ohio actually has its very own Hoover Dam, not quite as spectacular as the one in Nevada, but nice all the same.

Jimmy tried to tempt us to stay with them another night, but we were running on a pretty tight schedule and had to keep heading West. I already had push all our camping reservations back a day, as there was no way we would reach Lake Anita State Park in Iowa that night. Hopefully, we could get back on track with the revised schedule.

Around 4:00 that afternoon, we said our thank you’s and goodbyes, and pointed our caravan west, confident that our troubles were behind us.

Description

My brother's home in a suburb of Columbus, Ohio

Travelogue

Gay Head Cliffs and Lighthouse from Top of CliffsI still tend to slip and call this Gay Head, because that’s what everyone did until it was changed in 1997 to the more politically correct “Aquinnah,” which is Native American for “land under the hill.” Out of the year round population of 311 people, approximately half are members of the Wampanoag tribe that settled on the island centuries before English settlers arrived and felt the need to convert them to Christianity.

Anyone that has seen postcards or photos of Martha’s Vineyard will recognize the iconic image of Aquinnah’s dramatically colorful clay cliffs, laced with multicolor bands of red, yellow, white, and gray.

One of the best vantage points to view the cliffs is from the Gay Head Lighthouse, which sits atop the cliffs. The lighthouse is open to the public on Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings from one hour before sunset to a half hour after sunset, from the summer solstice to the fall equinox.

The approach to the lighthouse is a path lined with gift shops selling native Wampanoag wares and several take-out chowder and seafood shacks.

Moshup Beach Cliffs at High TideHowever, the best view in my opinion is from down below on Moshup Beach. Besides one visit here with the kids when they were little, we really didn’t start coming here regularly until just two years ago. When they were along, we tended to spend most of our time on the eastern end of the island in Edgartown and Chappaquiddick. But now that it pretty much is just Herb and I, we like to mix it up and spend time beaching and photographing what the Travel Channel has selected as one of the top 10 beaches in the country. Despite its uniqueness and beauty, its remote location from the more touristy parts of the island makes it much less crowded than the other public beaches on the island.

The walk along this ½-mile beach at the base of the 130-foot high cliffs is breathtaking, with crashing waves to one side and the stunningly beautiful, multicolored cliffs on the other—not to mention the creative and whimsical rock cairn art to maneuver around along the way.

Moshup Beach Red Clay RivuletIn many places, little rivulets of red clay seep out of the cliffs and flow towards the sea. In the 60s and 70s, it was a popular activity for nude sunbathers to partake in “clay baths” and cover their bodies with clay. While playing with the clay is no longer allowed, the nude sunbathing tradition lives on at the far end of the beach.

For the last two or three summers, Herb and I have driven the RV down to the western end of the island (up-island as locals say) and parked in the big town lot at the end of State Road. It is $15 for the full day. From the parking lot, the Moshup Trail is a 10-minute, very pretty walk to the beach.

Herb and his "Beach System"Since the walk is pretty far, we tend to bring our stuff for the whole day—beach chairs, books, lunch, cocktails, and much camera gear. Herb has developed a “system” for carrying all this stuff. He starts with one of his old backpacks, straps two wind guards to each side, hangs the beach chairs on the wind guard poles, straps his tripod to the top, and stuffs everything else inside. I follow like a queen.

We like to spend the entire day here, swimming and reading, and waiting for the low light at the end of the day to paint the cliffs in even brighter hues. That’s when the cameras come out.

Last summer, Andrew and his girlfriend Celeste interned in Boston, so they popped down to the island to join us on the weekends. We had been bringing Andrew to the island once or twice a year since he was 3 months old, so it was nice to show him something new to add to his list of favorite spots on the island.

Andrew and Celeste at Moshup Beach - LEGAnother favorite spot in Aquinnah that we have been coming to for years is Lobsterville Beach. Its location on the northwest side of the island, on the Vineyard Sound, makes it a perfect place to watch the sun set over the water, which we have done at least once every year since the 80s. The problem, however, is parking, as there are only 8 non-resident spots at the end of West Basin Road. This is particularly challenging with an RV, but we do manage to fit with the back of the RV hanging over the bushes.

During our “foolish youth” phase, we used to come here to BBQ and make a bonfire on the beach. If I remember correctly, there might have been some liquor involved as well. On one of these bonfire nights, we were approached by a town official, who quite nicely suggested that our fire was illegal. After chatting with him awhile, he generously told us to continue with our fun and to tell anyone that bothered us that “Chief Taylor said it was okay.” Only later did we realize that this was James Taylor’s younger brother. James Taylor, as well as his ex-wife Carly Simon, live on the island.

Elizabeth Islands SkyWhile not particularly great for swimming, because of the rocks and seaweed, it is an excellent spot to fish for blues, flounder, and striped bass. You can fish along the 2-mile beach or from the rock jetty that is just across the channel from the more-crowded Menemsha jetty. We have caught fish here for years. One particular favorite Gaidus fish story was when Andrew, who was about 12 at the time, caught a flounder. It was large enough for us to call it dinner. Unfortunately, Andrew had already named it Alfred and developed a relationship with it. It wasn’t one of our easier dinners.

Another time, the boys designed a seagull trap. They dug a hole on the beach, large enough to hold a small boy. Then one of them would get in the hole, and the other would cover it with a beach blanket with chips scattered on it. When a seagull landed to eat the chips, the one in the hole would leap up and try to grab the poor unsuspecting gull. They got pretty close one time. I am not sure who was more scared, the bird or Andrew and Tommy.

Fly Fishing Lobsterville BeachAlthough the fishing here is really good, the main draw for us are the spectacular sunsets over the Sound. We have also spent many evenings watching the same view from the Menemsha beach, just a stone’s throw (but a 7.5-mile drive) across the channel. Because of its easier accessibility, the Menemsha Beach is mobbed for sunset, while we often have the Lobsterville one practically to ourselves. The other nice thing about being on the Lobsterville side is that it is really nice to look at and photograph the picturesque fishing village of Menemsha from across the channel.

During the summer, a small bike ferry transports cyclists the short distance between Lobsterville and Menemsha. One year, the boys and I took our bikes across on this ferry and then rode the 7.5 miles back to Lobsterville.

Tommy and Gay Head Cliffs during our Circumnavigation of the VineyardAnother great way to explore the Vineyard is kayaking on one of its many ponds, so a few years ago Herb built a rack for the top of the RV, where he could place two kayaks between the vents and air conditioning unit. It really is rough getting them up and down from there. Thankfully, Herb is in good enough shape to climb up the back ladder with them. Two years ago, we decided to bring the boys’ small perception kayaks to the Vineyard with us. They are pretty wide and slow, but we thought they would be fun to play around with anyway.

I bought a really good book called Exploring Martha’s Vineyard by Bike, Foot, and Kayak (see our BOOKS tab), which gave us some great ideas as to where to kayak. One day at Lobsterville, we decided to launch the kayaks in Menemsha Pond and paddle all the way across and then through Nashaquitsa Pond and on to Stonewall Pond, about a 3 to 4 hour paddle. This was a pretty good length voyage, which took us from the Vineyard Sound in the north to a beach on the Atlantic Ocean in the South.

Lolo and Boys at Lobsterville BeachEach of the ponds was very different. Menemsha Pond is pretty busy with boat traffic and quite open and windy, making it a bit of a difficult paddle. However, it is quite scenic and allows you to get up close to Menemsha’s Dutcher Dock. Nashaquitsa Pond is quite a bit smaller and more protected and has lots of coves to explore. Stonewall Pond is even smaller. To get to it we had to paddle under the South Road bridge. The really cool thing about Stonewall Pond is that you can get to a path to Stonewall Beach on the Atlantic Ocean. I read about this is my guide book, so I thought that that gave me permission to ignore the Private No Trespassing signs to check it out. Herb chickened out and stayed with the kayaks. He really missed out, because I got to experience the musical sounds emanating from the surf crashing over the rocks piled up along the base of the cliff. It was mesmerizing.

The way back was tiring as the wind had shifted against us, but all in all it was a fabulous journey and a very different way of exploring the island. Kayaks definitely do allow you to get into nooks and crannies that would otherwise be inaccessible. There was so much more to do on this island now that kayaks gave us access to the ponds.

Description

Moshup Beach View of CliffsThe town of Aquinnah is located on the western end of Martha’s Vineyard (referred to as “up-island”), bordered by the Vineyard sound to the north and the Atlantic Ocean to the west and south. It is home to a year round population of 311, half of which are members of the Wampanoag tribe.
According to the Wampanoag, Martha’s Vineyard, which they called Noepe, was formed by the giant Moshup and that they arrived on the island by floating on an ice floe from the far North. Moshup then taught his people how to fish and catch whales. The character Tashtego in Herman Melville’s novel Moby Dick was an Aquinnah harpooner.

Tacking Across Vineyard SoundThe Wampanoag inhabited Martha’s Vineyard for centuries before Thomas Mayhew, Jr. arrived with a group of settlers in 1642. Mayhew found the Wampanoag to be a courteous and friendly people. He treated them with respect, learned their language, opened the first school on the island to teach them English, and converted many of them to Christianity.

In 1870, the Wampanoag land was incorporated as Gay Head. In 1987, the Federal Bureau of Indian Affairs recognized the Wampanoag tribal council as an official tribal government. The tribal lands encompass 485 acres, 325 of which are common lands, including the Gay Head Cliffs, Herring Creek, and Lobsterville. In 1997, the name of the town was changed from Gay Head to Aquinnah, which means “land under the hill.”
Aquinnah is best known for its dramatically colorful clay cliffs, painted in red, yellow, white, and gray. The cliffs, which are considered sacred to the Wampanoag, are protected, and it is forbidden to climb them or remove the clay.

Lolo of Moshup BeachOne of the best vantage points to view the cliffs is from the Gay Head Lighthouse. The lighthouse was opened in 1799 to guide ships through the treacherous waters between the Gay Head Cliffs and the Elizabeth Islands. In 1844 it was moved back 75 feet from the edge of the eroding bluff to its current location. Today the lighthouse is overseen by the Martha’s Vineyard Museum and is open to the public on Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings from one hour before sunset to a half hour after sunset, from the summer solstice to the fall equinox.

The beach below the cliffs is called Moshup Beach, named after the mythical giant sachem that created the island. While good for swimming, in that the water here is warmer than most of the island, the main draw to this ½-mile white, sandy beach is its incredible scenery. The beach lies at the base of the 130-foot high stunningly beautiful and multicolored Gay Head cliffs, named for its “gay” brightly colored red, brown, yellow, and tan striations. Strolling the beach requires maneuvering over the numerous rocks tossed back and forth by the tides, providing creative beach goers with a limitless supply of materials to build creative rock cairns and towers.

Moshup Beach Whale Rock?In many parts of the beach, rivulets of red clay seep out of the cliffs and flow towards the ocean. In the 1960’s and 70’s this became a popular spot for nude sunbathers to partake in “clay baths.” Today that is no longer allowed. However, there is still a section of the beach that is clothing optional.
Moshup Beach is annually selected by the Travel Channel as one of the top 10 beaches in the nation. Despite its uniqueness and beauty, its remote location from the more touristy parts of the island makes it much less crowded than the other public beaches on the island.

The parking area for the beach is located in the town lot at the end of State Road. It is $15 for the full day. From the parking lot, the Moshup Trail is a 10 minute walk to the beach. For bicyclists, there are bike racks located adjacent to the beach.

Herb on Lobsterville JettyAbout 4 miles from the Gay Head lighthouse at the end of West Basin Road on the northwest side of the island is Lobsterville Beach, a secluded 2-mile public beach on the calm shores of Vineyard Sound. It is located across a narrow channel, a stone’s throw away from the more highly visited Menemsha village (although the drive there is 7.5 miles). During the summer, a small bike ferry transports cyclists the short distance between Lobsterville and Menemsha.

Over a hundred years ago, Lobsterville was the most important fishing village on the island. Ships from the mainland sailed into this harbor to purchase lobster and fish. Today, Menemsha has taken its place as the island’s primary fishing port, and Lobsterville village no longer exists.

Lobsterville Beach SunsetToday Lobsterville is a place for beaching, birding, fishing, and just getting away from the summer crowds. Although swimming is allowed, the rocks and seaweed trapped in the cove make it a bit difficult. Lobsterville’s biggest draw, however, is fishing for flounder, striped bass, bonita, and blues, as dozens of fisherman line the rock jetty just across the channel from their Menemsha competition doing the same.

Since Lobsterville is located on the west end of the island, it is a wonderful place to watch the sunset over the water. It’s fun to contrast the quiet viewing that takes place here with the party-like atmosphere of the sunset revelers across the channel on Menemsha Beach. The views of this quaint picturesque village from the Lobsterville jetty make it a great place for photographers as well.

The small parking lot for this beach can accommodate only 8 cars.

There are 2 public beaches in Aquinnah:

• Moshup Beach – located on the Atlantic Ocean at the base of the Gay Head Cliffs
• Lobsterville Beach – located on the Vineyard Sound at the end of West Basin Road

Kayaking opportunities:

• Menemsha – Nashaquitsa – Stonewall Ponds
• Squibnocket Pond

Travelogue

Nashaquitsa Pond DinghiesThe town of Chilmark is probably one of the most beautiful on the island, with its long rambling stone fences and rolling hills overlooking the sea. It’s more of a residential and agricultural community than a touristy one, so we really haven’t done too much in Chilmark, with the exception of driving through it and appreciating its lovely scenery and feeling a bit envious towards anyone fortunate enough to own a home here. Actually, you don’t really see the houses – just the long winding driveways leading towards the sea. It’s the home of the rich and the famous and the place where presidents come to relax.

One of my favorite viewpoints on the drive through Chilmark is along the South Road. Just about a mile past Beetlebung corner, there is a bridge, with Nashaquitsa Pond on the right and Stonewall Pond on the left. I describe a kayaking trip we took on these two ponds in the Aquinnah stop. About a tenth of a mile after the bridge, the road heads up a hill. Halfway up the hill, there is a wide spot on the side of the road called Quitsa Overlook. From there you can look out over Nashaquitsa and Menemsha ponds and beyond to Menemsha and the Vineyard Sound. One evening when returning from Moshup Beach, Herb and I were lucky enough to catch a beautiful sunset over the ponds.

Motor Yacht Banjo by MoonlightMenemsha is one of my favorite places on the island, and one where we have spent many wonderful times. This quaint little fishing village is so picture postcard perfect that it seems more fake than real. In fact, it was used as a stage set during the filming of the movie Jaws.

I love walking along Dutcher Dock watching the fishermen unload their daily catch of tuna, swordfish, halibut, striped bass, bluefish, and lobster from their weather-beaten fishing boats. It’s a great place to pick up some very fresh seafood at one of the fish markets along the dock.

Nashaquitsa Pond SunsetIts location on the northwest part of the island makes Menemsha a perfect place to watch the sunset over the waters of Vineyard Sound. Before we began bringing the RV to the island, we used to come to Menemsha at least once each trip to watch the sunset. Every night is a party in Menemsha as crowds gather on the small swimming beach to watch and cheer as the sun dips below the horizon.

Since we started bringing the RV to the island, we have switched our sunset viewing to Lobsterville Beach, just across the channel from Menemsha. Menemsha is just too crowded to find parking for the RV. I kind of like this better because this way we can gaze at and admire Menemsha from across the channel.

Over the years, we also have done a lot of fishing from the Menemsha rock jetty, which is usually pretty crowded with fisherman trying to land a blue or striper. We have had our fair share of success over the years with many a blue or striper at the end of our lines.

Herb with Nice Bluefish caught on Light Tackle - LEGI remember coming to the Vineyard once in October before Herb and I were married. We came down to Menemsha to watch the sunset and do some fishing. We didn’t have much money then, so we were going to cook dinner on Herb’s camping stove on the jetty. I was not exactly a very good cook then – not that I am that great now – but I was particularly inexperienced at the time. I did not understand the concept of how much rice expands when you cook it. Before I knew it, I had enough rice to feed a family of 10 and it was bubbling over the pot onto the jetty. I think that is when Herb realized he wanted to marry me. Somebody had to do it.

There was about a six-year period where we used to bring our 20-foot Grady White to the island with us. On two of our circumnavigations of the island, we cruised through the channel to explore Menemsha Pond. A couple of times, we anchored and swam to the Lobsterville shoreline where an old dilapidated and abandoned fishing boat lay on its side. We later found out that this was a boat named Orca used in the filming of Jaws. There were two Orcas used in the movie, one for the motor scenes and one for the sinking scenes. This one, as might be obvious, was the one used for the sinking scenes, and it was left behind after the filming was complete. It was there for quite a few years, but I think it is gone now.

Herb and Andrew watching Menemsha Sunset - LEGMenemsha is also home to the iconic Home Port Restaurant, whose portions are large enough to keep you fed for an entire week. Before RVing days, we always made it a point of coming here at least once on each visit. It’s not a fancy place, but rather a casual waterfront setting with a nautical feel. It has great seafood and no liquor license, so be sure to bring your own.

We have fond memories of bringing the kids here ever since they were babies. The place is noisy enough to not worry too much about kid behavior. However, one time Tommy, at the age of 2, managed to break through the noise and the chaos and shock the table of elderly women behind us. We had provided him with a blue marker to color the placemat and keep him busy. Without us seeing, he dipped his marker in his water glass, painted his entire mouth blue, stuck his fingers in the mouth stretching his lips apart, and yelled “Look at me, Look at me!!” to the blue-haired ladies behind us. They were not amused. We, however, were and tried our best to not burst out laughing as Herb carried Tommy out of the room to give him a talking to.

Anyway, I highly recommend the Home Port Restaurant.

Kids Walking the Menemsha JettyOne summer I decided to not just stick to our usual spots on the island – although they were really good – but to venture out and discover some new ones. That’s when I bought a book called Exploring Martha’s Vineyard by Bike, Foot, and Kayak. It has served me well and brought us to some really cool places, such as the Great Rock Bight Preserve on the northern Vineyard Sound side of Chilmark. Since the RV is not a good vehicle for exploring on the island, we used our bikes to get here from the campground.

The Great Rock Bight Preserve is a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank property. The Land Bank is a very cool concept. Every time a real estate transfer occurs on the island, 2% of the sale goes into a fund which is used to acquire and manage open space for the public’s enjoyment. There are dozens of beautiful spots, some very tiny, some quite large, scattered throughout the island that have been obtained by the Land Bank. You can pick up a map of Land Bank properties at their office on Main Street in Edgartown.

English Family on Great RockAnyway, the 28.5-acre Great Rock Bight Preserve is an excellent example of one of these Land Bank properties that have been set aside for public enjoyment. It is located on the north side of the North Road, about 4 miles west of its intersection with State Road in West Tisbury, which was a pretty good, and hilly, ride from the campground. Once we arrived, we locked our bikes up at the trailhead and set out on the .8-mile Yellow Trail to the beach. The trail brought us to a bluff above the beach with tremendous views of Vineyard Sound and the Elizabeth Islands, as well as the “great rock” standing guard over the cove. We took the steep trail down to the beach, which for now we had totally to ourselves. My biggest regret was that I did not wear a bathing suit under my cycling shorts, because the water was inviting, and the rock would have been a great destination to swim to. Instead, we had to settle for watching another better-equipped family from London arrive, strip down to their bathing suits, and swim out to the rock. We even took a family photo of them standing out on the rock. That was supposed to be my family picture. Next time I would plan better.

Chilmark also shares Menemsha, Nashaquitsa, and Stonewall Ponds with the town of Aquinnah. One summer, Herb and I paddled our kayaks across all three of them for a really wonderful journey, which I have described in the Aquinnah stop, because technically we began it from Lobsterville Beach in Aquinnah.

Description

Nashaquitsa Pond BoathouseChilmark is a small, rural community located on the western end (up-island) of Martha’s Vineyard. It is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean on the south, Aquinnah on the west, the Vineyard Sound in the north, and West Tisbury to the east.

Less touristy than the rest of the island, it is primarily a residential and agricultural community. With its rolling hills, rambling stone walls, and tall, leafy trees, it is more similar to a Vermont town than the other seaside towns on the island.

The center of town consists of a small schoolhouse, originally a one-room school built in 1850, a tiny post office, and a public library, which often serves as a gathering place for Chilmark’s 650 year-round residents. There is also a love 1843 church and the town hall, built in 1897. Another gathering spot for locals and summer visitors alike is the Chilmark Store, just down the road past Beetlebung Corner. Like Alley’s in West Tisbury, the rocking chairs on the porch are a place to gather for getting the local news and gossip.

Menemsha Coast Guard StationChilmark was settled by sheep farmers and mariners 300 years ago. A visible reminder of this past is the long stone walls running alongside the roads and through meadows and woods that were once fields for grazing.

Earning a livelihood from the sea also lives on in the quaint fishing village of Menemsha, where weathered fishing shacks, nets, buoys, and lobster pots line Dutcher Dock. There is much hustle and bustle in this active port as fisherman in big rubber boots unload their daily catch of tuna, swordfish, halibut, striped bass, bluefish, and lobster from their weather-beaten fishing vessels tied up at the docks. A walk down Dutcher Dock might seem familiar to those who have seen the movie Jaws, as this working fishing harbor served as a stage set for the film.

Lolo on JettyMenemsha Village lies on the eastern shore of Menemsha Pond where it flows out into Vineyard Sound. There is a small beach on the calm waters of Vineyard Sound that is great for families with children. Also, popular is surf casting on the rock jetty into the channel leading towards Menemsha Pond. However, what brings most people to Menemsha is the chance to eat some freshly cooked seafood and then watch the spectacular sunset over Vineyard Sound. During the summer, a small bike ferry transports cyclists the short distance across the channel between Menemsha and Lobsterville.

Dad Fishing Lobsterville at Sunset - AJGChilmark shares several ponds, some of which it shares with neighboring towns: Chilmark Pond in the southeast part of town, Squibnocket and Menemsha Ponds to the southwest (shared with Aquinnah) and Tisbury Great Pond to the east (shared with West Tisbury). The only road to Aquinnah passes between Squibnocket and Menemsha Ponds, which are only 1,100 feet apart.

The town has several sanctuaries and preserves, the largest being the Menemsha Hills Reservation, a 211-acre preserve managed by the Trustees of the Reservation. It is located on the north side of North Road, one mile east of Menemsha Village. Three miles of hiking trails lead through wetlands and woodland groves and a climb to the top of the 308-foot Prospect Hill, the second highest point on the Vineyard.

Young Andrew at Menemsha BeachAnother interesting public property in Chilmark is the Great Rock Bight Preserve, a 28.5-acre Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank property with hiking trails and swimming at a secluded sandy cove on Vineyard Sound. The preserve gets its name from the “great rock” located a short, swimmable distance from the beach. The preserve is located on the north side of North Road, 3.8 miles west of its intersection with State Road in West Tisbury. From the parking area, one can go left and take the .5-mile Yellow Trail directly to the beach, or for the more adventurous hiker, the 1.5-mile Marl Pond Loop heads right from the parking area, through grasslands and past two ponds before meeting up with the Yellow Trail towards the beach. From the bluff above the beach there are tremendous views of Vineyard Sound and the Elizabeth Islands, as well as the “great rock” standing guard over the cove. A steep trail leads down to the swimming beach.

The Chilmark Pond Preserve is a Martha's Vineyard Landbank property with walking trails and a canoe/kayak launch site that allows for access to Lower Chilmark Pond. There is also a 200-feet beach accessible by canoe or kayak. A boardwalk and stairs lead from the pond to the beach.

There are 3 public beaches in Chilmark:

• Menemsha Public Beach – gentle beach on the Vineyard Sound next to Menemsha Harbor
• Chilmark Pond Preserve – 200-foot beach accessible by canoe or kayak
• Great Rock Bight Preserve – located off the North Road. The trail to the beach is long and steep and has stairs.

Kayaking opportunities:

• Chilmark Pond
• Menemsha – Nashaquitsa – Stonewall Ponds
• Squibnocket Pond

Travelogue

Lolo at Alley's General StoreWest Tisbury has a very different feel to it than the other towns on the island. It’s more similar to a small New England farming community than the other seaside towns on the island. The Old Grange Hall holds a farmers’ and craft market every Wednesday afternoon and Saturday morning, and the new Agricultural Hall is the site of the annual Vineyard County fair held in the third week of August. I have never been to it, but it is definitely on my bucket list to do so some day. If I were to live on the island, I could most easily picture living here.

Usually, West Tisbury is not a destination for us, but rather a place we pass through on our way to Lobsterville, Menemsha, or Moshup Beach. That being said, we do have some favorite spots, the first of which is Alley’s General Store and the Field Gallery across the street. Alley’s is kind of a gathering place for locals to sit on the porch and get the day’s news and gossip. The store itself is pretty basic in terms of supplies – a few grocery items, some beach stuff, and lots of nosh. When they were little, the boys used to love to stop and shop here.

Family with Aggy Imitating Field Gallery ArtThe Field Gallery, with its whimsical statues of women dancing, just across the street is one of my favorite stops. A few summers after my father passed away, we used to bring my 80+ year old mom to the island with us. Probably some of my all-time favorite photos of all times are the ones of my mother imitating the poses of these statues.

Also, one of the largest and nicest galleries on the island is the Granary Gallery at the Red Barn on Old County Road. We try to stop there every year now and look at their very fine collection of paintings, sculptures, and photographs. If I had unlimited money, I would definitely decorate my house with many pieces from this must-see gallery.

Lolo in Granary GalleryLike most of the towns on the island, West Tisbury also has its share of refuges and reservations. One of the ones we discovered a few years back is Sepiessa Point, a Land Bank property on the Tisbury Great Pond. Much of the roads on the island, especially those leading to the ponds, are dirt, so the RV is not a very practical vehicle for exploring. That is why the bikes have become such an important part of our Vineyard explorations. Sepiessa has a 2 ½ mile bike trail that leads to a beautiful sandy beach on the pond, shallow, but still nice for swimming. You just have to be careful about stepping on a sharp oyster shell, of which the pond has many. Across the pond you can see the ocean side barrier beach. Twice a year a breach is created to allow salt water to flow into the pond because oysters need salt water to breed.

For those interested in history, Christiantown is a very interesting place to visit. Like many other hidden gems on the island, its location at the end of a dirt road made the bikes the best choice for getting there. It’s not actually all that easy to find. To get there, when traveling west on the State Road, turn right onto Indian Hill Road, follow that for ½ a mile, and then turn right onto the dirt Christiantown Road. There may not be a street sign, but only a Private Road sign – very inviting. Follow that for another .6 miles to a parking lot.

Lamberts Cove RivuletYou’ll know you’re there when you see the tiny Mayhew Chapel, named after the Reverend Thomas Mayhew Jr., who was instrumental in converting the Wampanoag tribe to Christianity. Hence the name Christiantown, which was established in 1659 when Sachem Josias Keteanummin donated a square-mile plot of land to be used as a the first native American Christian settlement. The small wooden Mayhew Chapel is only open on Sundays, but you can peek through the windows at its tiny altar and six pews. The chapel was named after the Reverend Thomas Mayhew Jr., who was instrumental in converting the Wampanoags to Christianity.

Behind the chapel there is a short trail leading through the Christiantown Woods, where you will pass the remnants of farms that occupied this land centuries ago.

Just across the road from the chapel is a small hill. Follow that to a small burial ground, where the remains of the Wampanoag converts lie. The grave markers contain no names or information about who is buried below.

Indian Hill Road leads back out to Lamberts Cove Road and to what is one of the most beautiful beaches on the island. James Taylor and Carly Simon co-wrote a song called Terra Nova, and at the end of it she sings about what has come to be known as “Lambert’s Cove.”

Out of the west of Lambert's Cove
There's a sail out in the sun
And I'm on board though very small
I've come home to stop yearning

Burn off the haze around the shore
Turn off the crazy way I feel
I'll stay away from you no more
I've come home to stop yearning

Lamberts Cove BeachUnfortunately, only residents of the town of West Tisbury, of which Carly Simon is one, are allowed access to this beautiful beach during the summer. The rest of us have to wait until the off season to not be chased off its pristine shore. We often do come to the Vineyard in late September, so we chose one fine sunny Indian summer day to enjoy this lovely beach. My favorite part of the beach, and the place in which I and a few other sea birds chose to take a dip, was the little rivulet that flows back and forth between the James Pond and Vineyard Sound. It truly is a place worth singing about.

Description

Field Gallery Art with Lazy Daze - LEGWest Tisbury is located in the center of the island. It is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the south, Chilmark to the west, Vineyard sound to the northwest, Tisbury to the northeast, and Edgartown to the east. Along with its neighbors Chilmark and Aquinnah, it is considered to be up-island.

Having no port, West Tisbury is more similar to a typical New England farming community than to the other seaside towns on the island. It is the agricultural heartland of the island. The old Grange Hall on the corner of Music Street hosts a farmers’ and craft market on Wednesday afternoons and Saturday mornings. The new Agricultural Hall, one mile from the old hall, is the site of one of the Vineyard’s most popular events, the annual County Fair held in the third week of August.

Tommy at Llama FarmTime seems to move a bit slower in this traditional farming community. Locals frequently gather on the porch of Alley’s General Store to get the day’s news, drink coffee, and glare at the tourists. Fans of Cynthia Riggs’ mystery stories will recognize many places in town from her books, including the tiny one-room police station on Mill Pond.

West Tisbury is home to several Vineyard artists, many of which have galleries in their homes. The Field Gallery, with its whimsical dancing statues by artist Tom Maley, is located across the street from Alley’s General Store. One of the largest and nicest galleries on the island is the Granary Gallery at the Red Barn on Old County Road.

Field Gallery SculptureThe town also has several refuges and reservations, the largest being the Long Point Wildlife Refuge just east of Tisbury Great Pond. The Refuge, which includes over 600 acres of beach, dune, and woodland, is managed by the Trustees of Reservation. It is one of the largest publicly accessible properties on the island. There are 2.1 miles of flat trails through woods and open areas that lead to an ocean-side beach.

The Cedar Tree Neck Sanctuary, a 300-acre natural habitat owned by the Sheriff’s Meadow Foundation, is located on the island’s northern shore along Vineyard Sound. Three separate trails take visitors through woods, across streams, past freshwater ponds and bogs, along rocky bluffs with scenic views, and along a beach.

Lolo reading in Lamberts Cove DuneThe Sepiessa Point Reservation is a 173.7-acre Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank property located in the town of West Tisbury on the Tisbury Great Pond. The reservation has 2.5 miles of hiking/biking trails and a half-mile-long sandy beach from which one can swim in the pond. The pond is oyster seeded, so there are sharp shells scattered along the beach and in the water. Since oysters need salt water to breed, twice a year a breach is created in the barrier beach to allow salt water to flow into the pond.

West Tisbury is also home to approximately half of the Manuel F. Correllus State Forest, which dominates the center of the island. The other half lies in Edgartown. The State Forest is described in a separate stop.

An interesting historical site in West Tisbury is the Christiantown Memorial, the site of the Mayhew Chapel and a small Indian burial ground. Christiantown was established in 1659 as the first Christian Native American village. The chapel that stands there today was built in 1829. Inside there is a tiny altar and six pews.

There are four public beaches in West Tisbury

• Long Point Wildlife Refuge Beach – located on the south shore and open to non-residents who purchase a Trustees of the Reservation sticker
• Sepiessa Point Reservation – the ocean beach can only be reached via kayak or canoe
• Uncle Seth’s Pond – small beach on a pond on Lambert’s Cove Road
• Lambert’s Cove – considered by many to be the most beautiful beach on the island. It is located off Lambert’s Cove Road and is situated on a cove off of Vineyard Sound. During the summer, only residents of West Tisbury and their guests are allowed to use the beach.

Kayaking opportunities:

• Tisbury Great Pond